Automatic Transmission Does Not Shift Correctly

I posted the ones to check here
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...t-shift-correctly.804806/page-5#post-28865652

 

Here is a direct DL for it
That way no one else has to “sign up” for Scribd.

 

Ok I got the two confused.

 

For P it says 2 - 6 and 4 - 5. So red meter lead into each one or do I use the black as well?

 

This is what I did. I am confused.

PB1 - Yellow - Gear 3 - 9.7V rest were below 1
PB3 - Blue/Black D + 4 both 9.7V rest were below 1
PB5 - Green/Black - Park 9.7V rest below 1
PB6 - Red/White - Reverse 9.7V rest below 1
PB7 - Red/Yellow 2 + L both 9.7V rest below 1
PB8 - Blue/White - Neutral 9.7V rest below 1.

 

Is your battery @9.7v?
Or is it higher than 9.7v?

If your battery voltage is 9.7 then your checks look good.

I also went back and read your first post.
Your symptoms don’t sound like what a p0705.
You say, “when I accelerate the rpms go to 4k and have to let off then it's an abrupt shift and loud noise”. I don’t see how the neutral switch would cause that? @gearcruncher ?

Why you are throwing a p0705 I don’t know?
But from the looks of it, your voltages are good.

If you loose power to the switch, it can set too.
Maybe your problem was just a fluke?
But your symptoms in the first post don’t match what a P0705 sets for?

—- P0705 Set Criteria —-

When any one of following conditions (A) to (C) is met (2-trip detection logic):
(A) Any 2 or more signals of the following are ON simultaneously

1. NSW input signal is ON.
2. R input signal is ON.
3. D input signal is ON.
4. 3 input signal is ON.
5. 2 input signal is ON.

(B) All switches are OFF simultaneously for P (NSW), R, N (NSW), D, 3 and 2 positions
(C) When NSW or R input signal is ON, 4 or L input signal is ON

 

I was just assuming battery wasnt fully charged. Through all this testing truck won't start anymore. I know I am going to need to jump it. Code is reading a p0705 , issue with the lighting of the gears when shifting sometimes. I shift into drive and it the light doesn't turn on. Also from the post #1. When I stop at a light or take a turn it feels like the truck has fallen out of gear. When I touch the gas it really revs up and you feel everything shake. It is hard to explain.

Yes I did. I don't mind ruling things out though.

 

Following up my own comment.

The symptoms were exactly what I had. Same code, sometimes doesn't shift, sometimes shifts out of 3rd to nothing, engine raced. Cruise control not working.

Also the gear indicator in the dash was not working right.

I called a local transmission shop and was advised to find the connector along the transmission on the passenger side. Work it apart and spray it with contact cleaner, work it in and out a few times, and repeat.

I have had no problems since I did this.

 

Once I figure out my other issues I will see what happens. I sprayed contact cleaner on all the connectors.

 

ON THE CONNECTOR? or inside all the connectors, on the contacts, then work them in and out?

 

If you have success by cleaning all the connectors, and you might now that you’ve unplugged and plugged them back in a bunch of times, you may want to put a bit of dielectric grease around the plug weather pack. This will help keep moisture out and prevent the contacts from corroding as fast.

You can put a VERY small coat on the contacts. But that’s not exactly the way you use dielectric grease.
Dielectric grease doesn’t conduct electricity.

 

Iread the linked article. My 2011 DCLB as been doing the described gear slam since it was new, It usually happens after a hard full stop. Than one second later it feels like I have been rear ended. I can prevent it when I come to a hard stop, I immediately release the brake and roll forward a few feet it prevents the hard slam. 235,000 miles later it hasn't got any better or worse. I did two full flushes, 1st at 80,000 and 2nd at 200,000 using OEM fuild.

 

Using contact cleaner in the 7-pin connector worked perfectly after lots of wiggling in and out . I tried to remove all the accumulated muck but could not get the latch to re-engage. Hopefully, friction and gravity are enough.

 

Flushes are a waste of time at this point .
Drop the pan and change out the SLT

 

See my previous post.... this worked for me for a few months then the issues came back with a vengeance. A transmission shop replaced the entire gizmo for around $275 and now it works like a champ. I should have just taken it in.