All Things Bikes and Tacos! (...and every vehicle imaginable)

I have adjusted the hoods and bar position, but admittedly I'm not a pro, I'm just watching YouTube videos and making minor adjustments on feel. On smooth roads or hardpack, I'm fine for distance. It's the chunky stuff I start getting pain in my wrists and hands. Bike fit may be worth it, I've considered it, but was always thinking they were more money than it'd be worth for me personally (give how I ride), but maybe I'll need to reconsider...

 

My buddy that is crazy talented told me about them last week and is all in on the eesilk. I take his word as gospel, which means nothing to you however lol.

 

You might be able to play with the cockpit a little more. Like turning the hoods in/out, height, etc. Like right now my left hood is a little low on the bar but I just put on new bar tape and don't want to mess it up haha. My left hand starts to fatigue a little quicker because of it.

At the end of the day the stem might be the answer but with curly bars there are so many ways to mess up the fit. Especially since we are a bit more static on gravel bike compared to a mountain bike.

The other thing to remember is that bike fit can change fairly often. I haven't been riding my gravel bike as much as I was last year so I had to raise the stem up one spacer to get a little more comfortable.

 

A buddy of mine runs the Redshift stem and I was out with him on the second ride. He said he wasn’t feeling much of a difference so needed to add in something to provide more travel on it. If I remember, he was only at 20mm that ride? I’ll check in with him and see what his thoughts are at this point after more riding.

I will say the chunkier it gets, the rougher it is on my hands/wrists. Are you riding in the drops when it gets rough or on the hoods? And the angle, I almost want to angle the hoods on my road bike to match how the hoods on my gravel bike are. To me, it seems so much more natural to have them angled then straight up/down.

And a bike fit, which I don’t know what they cost these days, I had one probably 5-8yrs ago, are worth it. We spend the money on these bikes, why not make sure they fit so we can comfortably ride as well. I’ve taken my road bike set up to just about match my gravel bike set up - or as much as I can given the differences in style.

 

A very good looking IBIS, all it took was a top tube without a bend..
As the PB commentor said, it should be the RIPMORE!

 

I ride almost exclusively on the hoods. I can't comfortably get into the drops, it just doesn't feel natural to me at all. On an extended downhill, I can tuck into the drops and get more aero, but for general riding, I'm on the hoods most of the time. On a sustained uphill, where I'm settled into a climbing gear, I'll go to the flat part of the bars from time to time also.

 

I'm brandy new to this so I'll take any advice I can get!

You may be right on the tweaking. I started messing with the hoods and bar position quite a bit when I first got the bike. My first ride, my shoulders and elbows HURT, it was very unpleasant, to the point I thought I'd made a mistake buying a gravel bike. I kept tweaking and adjusting the bar roll and hoods and I got it much, much better. The fit feels really good on sustained hard pack and road rides. When I start getting into the bumpy stuff though, the palms of my hands and wrists get sore from the impacts. My back, shoulders and elbows all seem to fare just fine, it's just the immediate contact points.

 

are you wrists in line with the rest of your arm when you're riding? Like the back of your hand should be flat with your forearm. If not that could be the cause.

How long do you ride for? It does sound like your fit is pretty close since the rest of your arms aren't in pain. The hand pain could be from not great bar tape. The suspension stem could be the answer.

 

looks like a yeti sb160 to me. :/ i legit thought it was for a second

 

Thanks for all the good vibes!

Wasn't really a lapse of focus issue, though that's how I broke my shoulder skiing previously. In this case a few factors I think. New trail and riding it blind, overconfidence based on trail description, deep loose dirt (fresh build and not adequately packed) on trail, worn front tire. Was just getting to what felt like trail speed so boosted a rollable step up, back tire may have slightly cased and unsettled the front, because when I came down the front end of the bike just vanished to the side and I took the full impact right to the face. Not sure what happened to the right wrist to get it involved. Follow-ups with all the specialists coming up, so I'll have a better picture of the recovery process after that.

 

That's a whoooooooole lotta bike for 33lbs. Definitely the best looking Ibis ever.

 

Yes, my wrists are in line. The back of my hands are very close to flat with my forearm when riding. Angling the hoods in to achieve that was a game changer for me. Generally, I'm between 20-30 miles on the gravel bike but starting to venture further. I considered thicker bar tape but I'm generally on the hoods so I'm not sure if that'll help.

 

Agree- the best looking bike they've put out in a while. Kinda like the resulting off spring if the Nomad and SB160 had a one night stand

 

It was when I checked. I’ll prob stay with DHF/DHR2 in DD casing cus that’s what’s on the bike and honestly Tires being slightly different won’t be why I do or don’t get better at riding. It’ll work for 10+ mile trail days. It’ll work for bike park.

I’ve already got the rear setup w Cushcore. The normal version they made before they had the new trail one. I ride rear heavy and I’m still blowing through the travel on the rear shock so I’m thinking it might be time for a coil and get a super progressive spring

 

NBD!!!




































For the boy.

 

So no 2.6 kryptotal for front tire? or how much does the front/rear designation change on them?

 

Agreed, it looks like the Alchemy because of no switch infinity. Also, idk why, but i like the sharp angles of the rear triangle.

Agreed, I bet that’s a fun bike. That 165 DW link is going to pedal as well as any enduro bike out there.

I wonder if this will be a new trend amongst all new ibis models.

 

I see it as a sb160 with a 180 fork or the new orbea rallon with 180 fork instead of 170. I'll consider it as an upgrade in 4 years when the price of one used is reasonable. I don't see myself spending more than 3-3.5 on a bike for a longggg time

 

I'll say that when I started riding my gravel bike off road and steep gravel descents, I was reluctant at first to be in the drops, but it's so much better and stable now that I'm used to it. It really lets you get your weight back more.
Oh and Drops...meaning in the curved section of the bar as to still have a finger on the brakes. Wouldn't recommend being in the flat end section of the drops in sketchy riding.

 

This might be from too much weight forward and no front shock on the bumpy downhills (assuming you're used to suspension on your mtb. )
Mess w/ it a little more. If you're comfortable working on the bike, maybe try another spacer or two under the stem to raise bar height and get the weight back a little more. Might also make getting into the drops easier.