Long Travel BS Thread

Idk the only one i've seen like that so far is the new mason motorsports one that bryce menzies runs. ...and the robby gordon truck now that you mention it. I definitely could have missed a lot since i don't follow the racing that close but there isn't many
No big deal tho, cool to see at least a few that are trying it

 

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Someone buy my links
I’m trying to move and these are in my way

 

SOLD Anyone need some Fox 2.0x2.0 bumps? Unsure of condition internally. Pulled to do 4” bumps on a new to me bouncer. $250 shipped

 

that was quick

 

Might be a record. I got all kind of shit I need to get out of my garage lol

 

Figure someone in here may know what type / size of fittings the front brake lines will be. I want to replace the had line on the frame side and caliper side with braided hose.


They look like a standard fitting like the one that’s on the for existing soft lines and calipers…

 

M10x1.0

 

Yeah you just need an inverted flare adapter

 

I was hoping a local shop could make me some custom lines. The Toyota m10 on one end and Wilwood calipers on the other. I plan to do a big brake kit at the same time too. Current pads and rotors will need replacing soon this year anyhow.

 

Crown will do what you want and probably some of the best lines in the industry.
https://www.crownperformance.com/

 

only downside to crown was last time I ordered they didn’t do a m10 inverted flare end so you have to use an adapter.

 

G&J Aircraft in Ontario - just make sure you know exactly what length and fitting orientation you want and call them.

 

Got a question for all the LT people. Installed my WC lt +5 kit last weekend. Is there a process to determine how much the uca heims should be threaded out?
I'm about two full turns out from fully seated.

 

It’s kind of a balancing act with how your truck aligns. Think I’d start with the upper Heims about 1/4 inch out. Align the the wheels with the lower cams. Then at that point you can just fine tune with the upper Heims. I would probably limit the upper Heims threads to 1/2 the length …so if you have 2 inches of threads max should be 1 inch of thread showing including the jam nut in that measurement.

 

Question for those who have more experience and knowledge than I.

Every off road trip, my alignment goes out. Like the steering wheel is usually 10-40° off center. Almost always clockwise, and pull to the right.
Even this last trip to Barstow last weekend, I didn’t jump, really hit no big whoops, or go that fast in general. I was with a stock Silverado ZR2. Same thing, about 40° off center to the right, and pulls to the right.

• no cam tab gussets (I know… JD mount or Marlin Crawler gussets are on my short list
• a knocking/rattle sound when going over chatter bumps coming from the steering column somewhere, I think near the rag joint or something else where it goes through the firewall.
• I marked the lower cam tabs before last trip, as I suspected those were just spinning with no reinforcement — they actually did not move according to my marks.
• brand new intermediate shaft along with Tundra rack with solid bushings before this last trip
• OEM brand new inner tie rods with some custom PRG outters with heim joints on the outer joint
• alignment after the tundra rack install was great, camber and toe were well within spec, caster was up at like 6° and 7° obviously

Now, the alignment guy called me and says that one of the tie rods is maxed out. Something else is slipping or bending in the steering system, and I’m not sure where to start.
Could my intermediate shaft or upper column be twisting in the splines? The oem intermediate shaft I took out to do the tundra rack looked fine.
Lower cam tabs spinning but somehow I’m not seeing it?
I don’t think the rack is shifting in the mounts, but I’ll take a look when I get the truck back today. I’ll also see what’s exactly going on with the tie rods - I could cut my tube outer tie rod down to get more range, as they are mostly screwed all the way in, but I feel that’s just a bandaid fix and not the real problem…

I can post the alignment sheet from today, as well as the last time when I get home.

ty to all as always, I couldn’t do this stuff without ya !

current setup:


Edit: I have heimed UCAs so I could mess with that, but that would only effect camber/caster to my understanding, and not help the problem of toe that I’m seeing

 

The lower lca mount tabs could be bending way out. They are thin and weak as all hell

 

A faulty rag joint won’t make a vehicle pull to one direction or another on its own. If it was only a rag joint, it would only affect the steering wheel being off center.

It could be faulty and you could have something else happening, however there’s usually one problem at a time (couldn’t rule out having two problems ever though).

If you’re not sure of what it could be, I’d mark everything. Then you can see which thing is moving (cam bolt, rag joint, or something else).

The tie rod running out of adjustment is suspicious if you had your rack centered and your steering wheel centered when you installed the new rack. It seems like the rag joint could be slipping or (unlikely) the rack is slipping a tooth and they have to keep taking the adjustment out of the tie rods - but they would be adjusted equally each time to recenter your wheel and most likely would both be running out of adjustment.

I guess the easiest and quickest thing to do is mark your rag joint and cam tabs and make sure all of your steering and suspension bolts are tight enough and go off-roading and see if anything is moving.

I’m the kind of dude that will center the steering wheel, ratchet strap it in place, undo the rag joint, re-center the rack, reconnect the rag joint, even out the cam tabs (if you have taco tabs style cam eliminators it’s a no brainer), remove the coilovers to make caster and camber adjustments with the uppers (again if you have taco tab style plates it’s one of like two possible settings to allow your uppers to put you in range), then even out the tie rods using the diy toe method of choice, and set the truck back down and drive it. At least after doing all that and marking everything it’ll be known if it’s something other than the rack slipping or if the rack is allowing the ram and pinion to separate at some point when you are hitting things off road.

 

I wouldn’t think that the rack is jumping teeth, they just seem way too big to do that. Like the rack would explode and fracture if that kind of force were applied.

I’ll try and check the rag joint and the upper column some more. I’m just not super familiar with those parts.

I think the LCA tabs bending is the most likely culprit. They are completely stock and in gusseted.

Another Tacoma experienced guy I know suggested the thrust angle. Possibly just super worn leaf bushings or a broken center pin or bend hangers.
All that stuff has been pretty un-touched for about 30k miles

 

The racks jump teeth all the time, very common problem. That is why JD Fab made the slide rack for Taco’s because it helps with the deflection that causes that. I had a broken tooth on my rack for a couple months with no other symptoms other than the steering wheel would not be centered after a hard right turn, no visible damage or leaking etc