Clutch master & slave replacement repair question

Hey guys so my clutch pedal is stuck to the floor, I purchased both master and slave cylinders to slap in. I suspect it's the slave that's bad but figured I'd replace both.

Is there an order that I should replace them in? I suspect I should do master first and then slave to make bleeding easier but this is just a guess I've never done this repair before.

Also any tips on line bleeding? (I read somewhere to use vacuum hose caps on the line so it retains as much fluid in the line as possible)

Appreciate any info tips on this guy's thanks in advance

 

I have only ever used Aisin Hydraulic parts.

I let all the fluid drain New fluid never hurts .

10mm Line wrench( Flare Nut Wrench) saves rounded fittings

Never hurts to include the rubber hose while things are apart.

I change the Master Cylinder first in my case it is a major project The left Door and left seat need removed and lower dash panel so I can have room to work.

Do you have a vacuum bleeder ?? They work for me.

Some just let gravity do the job.

Good luck>

 

What can I say I am a big guy.

not so much tall but wide a 54" chest takes lots of room to wiggle around.

 

haha! i'm 48" and my neck and back wish my lazy ass removed at least the seat.

and yes, vacuum bleeder saves a bit of effort/time

 

A vacuum bleeder is worth picking up for this job in my opinion. I tried gravity bleeding probably 5 to 10 times with no luck, just couldn't get all of the air out. With the vacuum bleeder I was done in 5 minutes.

 

What I do to start the bleed is hold my finger over the bleeder and keep pressure on the fork while someone else pumps and starts to get pressure building.

Bleeding clutches is a bastard and it takes forever.

 

Use the bottle trick.
Clear silicone hose that fits over bleeder screw ran into and submerged in clean brake fluid in a clean empty washed soda bottle.

Fill master cyl with new clean brake fluid.
Now when you press the clutch peddle it will go to the floor and push air out, when you pull it up, it will draw brake fluid in but air cannot get in.

One person method that works and is very easy.

I use a metal pipe cut off to hold the bottle tightly and upright. I set it wood cribbing to adjust hieght so the line is as straight down as possible.

I have a vacuum bleeder but this method is easier. It always works, on brakes or clutch master cyls.

Hope this helps. I have used it for 35 years, a old man taught me wjen I was young.

 

When I did the job I replaced slave first and the problem persisted, then I replaced master. I suspect you'll use less fluid if you replace master first, but it shouldn't really matter as long as you don't let air into the lines during the procedure.

One important aspect of this job is doing a bench bleed of the master cylinder before installing it. To accomplish this you use a short length of vinyl tube piped from the outlet of the cylinder into the reservoir on top (you'll need to come up with a fitting for this if your kit doesn't come with it, I think I used a rubber plug of some kind). Fill the reservoir with brake fluid and cycle the piston until all the air is out of the cylinder, then install master cylinder into the truck.

Then replace slave cylinder and gravity bleed the slave cylinder line until the old fluid is gone and no air bubbles are seen in your vinyl bleeder line, topping off the reservoir as needed.

 

interesting in all my years Changing either brake or clutch Master cylinders I have never done this. nor ever seen anyone bleed a Master Cylinder .

Just what does it accomplish??

As far as I know I never had problems.

 

It gets the air out before installation. So you're not pumping air into your lines. I suppose if you're bleeding the lines after it may not be strictly necessary, but it will make that part easier at least.

I suppose you're also testing the part before installing it to make sure it works which could save you some hassle.

 

Only in the last few years after so many parts fail out of the box.

The first 40 years not ever did I get a bad part. Order the wrong part i am guilty of that.

 

min installing new master and slave cylinder… so once I bench bleed the master I just crack open the slave cylinder ??? Air cont come back up my master cylinder ??

 

The return spring on the pedal should bring your pedal up even if your master and slave cylindes are shot. I suspect the return spring is your only problem, especially if your tacoma is a V-6. On the V-6 it's a goofy coil spring setup. The plastic bushings on it wear out, and then the slot in the clutch pedal that it rides in wears deeper. Most people just pop the coil spring out and replace it with a linear spring. The points to connect it to are already there because the 4-cylinder models use a linear spring. A brake pedal return spring, or a clutch pedal return spring from a 4-cylinder will work. Here is a thread about it https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-pedal-truffle-shuffle.499079/

 

i got a meager 366k on my 5speed taco 5vzfe and Still waiting for this spring you speak of to hit the fan LoL
the master slave cylinders did wear out and needed replaced around 200k iirc its been a spell
at the time the pedal would usually just return halfway off the floor, especially after getting out of R gear