When is it really necessary to replace rotors and calipers when doing brakes?

The rotors currently on my truck have never been turned and don’t pulsate when braking. Calipers are originals and are working just fine.

Seems there’s lots of different ways garages replace brakes. Some will replace the pads and resurface/turn the rotors. Others want to replace the rotors with the pads. One recommended replacing the calipers, too.

Since these parts are easily accessible, what’s the harm in just replacing the pads and and having the rotors resurfaced? How likely are the rotors to warp after being resurfaced once?

Am I right to be skeptical that automatically replacing the rotors, and especially the calipers, is just a cash grab?

 

As long as you dont have any vibrations, and are keeping an eye on things - making sure pads are wearing evenly, alert to pulling one way or the other when braking, the smell of brakes smoking when you haven't really been on them (i.e. the things that would indicate a stuck caliper), then there's no real reason to replace anything proactively.

The possible exception to that in my book would be the rubber brake lines (from the frame to the calipers). Rubber wears out over time, and you'd get better performance from a set of stainless steel lines anyway, so that might be something to consider.

 

1st gens were known for pulsating brakes usually due to overheating or excessive runout from pad material. So many techs gave up on resurfacing them. 4runners are really bad.

I machine rotors dependent on condition. But I use an on car lathe. They are more true to the rotor and are the only effective way to machine truck rotors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUr9b8AA_g8

 

I only replace rotors when it's starts pulsating on braking or if the thickness goes under spec. Rotors are super cheap anyways. I think I bought a new set of Raybestos rotors from rockauto for like 30 bucks. I think it costs that much if not more to resurface them. The pulsating immediately went away after replacing them.

 

Buy some rotors from autozone. Can exchange them as many times as you want for 3 years

 

Personally, I run a coarse roloc pad over my rotors each time I remove them... just enough to skim away the glaze and rust, plus just a bit more out of spite, but never more than that. Consistent pressure is key. Then I'll buzz the glaze off the pads too. Always easiest to bed fresh friction surfaces.

I re-bed the pads by driving like a total ass hole for a few days. Works every time.

I used to replace pads and rotors annually because of the slightest pedal vibrations -- what a waste of money! Now I know: although uneven rotor/pad wear might eventually cause pedal vibrations, as might perhaps also the flutter of distant butterfly wings, so long as you can half-heartedly take a refinishing disc to your rotors and pads twice a year, then drive recklessly while blaming your faults on others for a few days, then your brakes are fine and you should buy a jet ski.

 

It's necessary when you first buy a Tacoma to upgrade to Tundra 13WL brakes

 

When I used to live in the mountains I need to replace my brakes (and tires) much more frequently than I do now. However, I still follow the same pattern: I have two sets of rotors- one active set on the truck, and the next set waiting to go on. I turn the inactive set between pad changes. I can usually get three turns out of each rotor before they are out of spec, and can't be turned again.

You only should replace the calipers if you suspect they have an issue (sticky or leaky piston). They can also be rebuilt, which I wish I would have done, rather than replacing mine when I did. The remanufactured replacements rusted very quickly, and I had to pull them off again, wire wheel them clean, and paint them.

What that all boils down to: don't replace stuff just cause. Have a good reason to do replace things, especially with non-oem parts.

 

Make sure to clean the rust corrosion where the rotor will sit on the hub. A wire wheel is good for this. A minute amount of rust can cause the the rotor to be untrue when mounted

 

Rebuild the calipers if unsure. Super easy!!

 

My families go to mechanic told me that with tacomas, one of the four pistons on each caliper almost always seizes around the 100k kilometre (60k+ miles) mark. My pads are at 15% now, I just rolled over 60k miles, and he said I can put new pads on, but that most likely within the year the Calipers will seize and the pads will be wasted, if they aren’t seized already when attempting to replace the pads. This guy has been really honest with my parents over the years, persuading them not to do things that Toyota has recommended ‘just cause’, and in turn, saving them money.
Is he full or shit here?

 

Depends where you live I suppose. My old calipers had 170k before I did the Tundra upgrade and they worked perfectly fine.

 

Are we talking 170k Miles? I literally live beside the ocean so I'm guessing the salinity takes it toll.

 

Yeah 170,000 miles. Salt definitely lowers the life expectancy of many things.

 

To me there are no hard rules everyone uses and drives there vehicles different.

When I buy a new to me vehicle I change to all new Front Brake hardware. When doing the neglected maintenance catch up.

After that to a as needed change.

Anymore all the local shops say turning Rotors is more expensive then replacing.

 

yes, but also make sure rear shoes are correctly adjusted

 

Flush the brake fluid out and replace, shouldn't stick if it's clean inside the caliper.

 

Here is one of the problems the longer the brake fluid is in the system the more water collects.

From the normal thermal cycling . Some owners might go 5 or10 years without a major fluid change.

To the point the hydraulic moving parts start to develop pits to the point they can no longer be rebuilt without machining which is not effective .

Till your dealing with expensive hydraulic cylinders.