Self Propelled Mower HELP

I have a Honda HRT216 KSDA self propelled mower.
It is 25yr old but still starts on the first pull, runs great..

For some reason, the clutch cable [that attaches to a lever on the handle bar and engages the drive wheels] keeps fraying/breaking. Seems like I am replacing it every few years - which seems a bit absurd considering the 1st one lasted like 15yr.

It has broken again and I have to take the belt cover off, by the blade, which is not gonna be fun considering there are some rust issues down there; it was a b*tch last time - don't think it has gotten better

I can go take photos; I have read/looked at everything I can online - followed directions, blah blah blah.. I was hoping someone around here had some insight into what I am doing wrong cause clearly I am doing something wrong.
WHAT. . . AM . . . I . . . MISSING?

NOTE: I buy OEM parts - not cheap knock off shit; I don't like doing repairs 2x or more frequently than necessary so I buy the legit parts..

 

Fairly specific question requiring specific knowledge. There are dedicated mower sites on the inter web. Try a Honda mower website.

 

I agree -
I have been on multiple Honda mower websites, looked at tons of diagrams and just can't seem to find a good place to ask the question -
I'll keep looking but I figured maybe, just maybe, someone around here could point me in the right direction

 

There's probably something going on inside the cover plate(?) that's rubbing on the cable causing it to fray faster than normal. You said your first one lasted roughly 15 years which may have failed because something else not obvious failed or wore out. Any pictures you could provide might help us diagnose from the couch. Our resident disgruntled lawn mower pro @RustyGreen may be able to give you some insight, but again, pictures will help.

-J

 

Disgruntled...?
Only because I end up fixing the things all the time...
I mowed 3-1/2 hours today at home, nothing fell off so I'm calling it a win.


OP:
Please post the full model & serial numbers, we can pull up the diagrams and see where the trouble spots might be.

Does the cable fray/break in the same place every time?
Is the cable in a sheath?
If so does the new cable come with a replacement sheath or do you reuse the old one?

 

Model: HRT216 KSDA
Serial no: MZCG 6310908

Yes the cable breaks at the same point each time, it is like there is too much slack in the line - I've tried to fix/compensate/not have so much slack but it clearly isn't working..

Yes the cable is in a sheath and the new cable comes sheathed - do not reuse the sheath.

 

I know nothing about what is fraying the mower cables. BUT…….older motorcycles need the cables lubricated to extend the life.

Maybe that would help??? Or maybe not.

 

Definitely couldn't hurt -

Pretty sure it is fraying b/c there is too much slack in the line
I tried to correct it but whatever I did, did not work

 

Finding a service manual for that model has proved elusive.

You say there is too much slack in the cable, I'm assuming you are seeing the cable kink when you release the handle for the drive, it shouldn't do that.

Please refer to the photo below.
I believe the problem is at the transmission end of the cable.

Again, I couldn't find a service manual to show this all together, #8 is the clutch arm so I assume the cable attaches there, #9 is the clutch arm return spring.

That arm should move nice and free back into the neutral position taking all the slack at the handle end up. The mower is 25 years old so there might be grass/dirt/etc preventing it from having a smooth action.

It looks like you can remove #10 the lock nut and #8 the arm should pull off and you can give everything a good clean up, an old tooth brush works good for jobs like this.
Don't spray it with a solvent, you don't want that running down into the shaft bushing. If you need solvent put in on a rag and scrub.

The lubricant for the shaft bushing may have dried out as well, I usually use a Moly Chain Lube product for that type of application, after you have the shaft and bushing area clean just give it a little spritz and work the lever back and forth. You can use the chain lube on the cables too, a very handy product to have in the tool box.

When reassembling, #9 the return spring might not have all the power it had 25 years ago, it is less than $4 for the part, alternately TSC or True Value might have something you could match it up with.

I couldn't find any photo of the cable adjustment, hopefully the new cable comes with instructions, don't go overboard tightening it, you can always give it a bit more after the cable wears in.



https://www.hondalawnparts.com/oemparts/a/hpe/505ce495f870022d24bdc602/transmission-4

This is one of my most useful products, I get it from a local industrial supply house, there are other brands. Any hardware store, TSC, NAPA, etc will have something similar.

It is useful for control cables, padlocks, overhead door wheels, hinges, on and on. It sheds water well, doesn't harm most plastics and doesn't get gummy over time.

 

also check for complete non-binding rotation of that assembly. if the cable is going too far slack, the internals might be time for a rebuild and something either gummed up or came apart that is causing binding that's preventing the return spring from fully releasing the mechanism.

i like to use wd40 as a parts cleaner for stuff like this. it's got minor lubrication abilities, but tends to work stuff free faster than a real lubricant

 

Thanks to you both for all of this info!

I took the shield off today and cleaned up in there a bit; I'll grab some of that lube while I'm out and poke around some more when I get home.

New part should be here in the afternoon.

 

Got the new part in and everything put back together - it all works but the line keeps popping out of the bracket that holds it to the transmission, probably b/c the retaining washer is all kinds of bent.

I'm gonna find a secondary way to secure it tomorrow..

 

Can you post a picture of the washer/retainer?

Did you get more/better motion out of the clutch lever to eliminate the cable slack?

 

I cleaned up the clutch lever and the excess slack seems to be gone.

I do not have a picture of the washer/retainer on its own but here are some pics:

This is the old part, the washer was on the light grey plastic part - it came off with the old part so I put it on the new part


This is from the underside of the transmission; you can see the same light grey plastic part in the center between the transmission and the pulley that drives the blade - the washer is on the light grey piece but has slipped out of the groove it fit into on the front side of the transmission


And this is the same part, with the retaining washer in the groove on the transmission case; my finger is on top of the washer



I looked at the transmission diagram and there seems to be a u shaped slot on the front (forward facing) part - I think that is what I am feeling/sliding the retaining washer into -

 

Found a service manual for a later model, yours should be similar.

This one isn't showing any washer.

Hook the end onto the clutch lever,
pull the cable jacket back guiding the (steel) cable into the groove,
then click the jacket into the bracket.

 

The washer is the groove/bracket - it is a metal washer that has a notch out of it - it is supposed to be fused with/attached to the transmission.
Apparently it came out and is now loose - I put it back into the groove it fits into and tied it in place with some wire.

Grass is cut, mower is fixed - THX for all y'all help

 

Glad you are up and mowing.