Eibach PRO TRUCK Coilover 2.0 Stage 2

where are you located?
id be interested for sure

 

@JBRAS2022OR I'm located in Escondido, California.

 

Dropping a plug for how great this suspension is. Just got back from towing a trailer (with WDH) through WA-NV-AZ-NM-TX-CO. Was butting up to the GVWR for towing. The suspension showed barely any sag in the back and it absorbed all potholes and crappy roads the southwest threw at me! Some of the hits I took would have hurt my back really bad but it only bounced me hard--I'm sure the factory suspension would have left me in pain. I can't say enough nice things about this suspension setup and it is one of the best mods I've done to my truck. Sadly, the 3.6L leaves a bit to be desired, and yes I have a tune, and it is a manual so it could have been worse, but in all fairness I was pulling a parachute and going up into 7500' altitudes so it was expected. Got around 6-8MPG but I was pushing it hard.

Sure hope those having weird suspension problems get them resolved...

 

This is why we are trying to get a 3rd gen with the concern in here. With such different responses from user to user, it is a possibility.

 

Appreciate that, but we have already put multiple sets on vehicles and have not been able to identify a concern. feel free to drop me a line with your contact info though. mkrumme@eibach.com

 

Has anyone checked their bumpstops?

I changed my brakes out this last weekend, and noticed very visible marks where the bump stop contacted the lower control arm.

I was going to rub some chalk on it and do a couple "slams" to see if that is where it is contacting.

 

I have an SR5 DCLB with a camper top and full skids and metal front bumper, with stock suspension. This has caused a loss of approx 1" from stock height all around. I'd like to regain stock height or perhaps add 1" to stock. I'm thinking about the Eibach Pro-Truck Stage 2 (both front and rear shocks) with Icon RXT leaf springs in the rear. I have a few questions:

1) For the rear: Will the Eibach rear shocks be able to pair with the RXTs at option #2. The Eibach rear shocks say for a max lift of 1.5". Will these shocks be able to handle the added droop from the RXTs? I'm planning on running stock bump stops for now. Also, will I need to address any adjustment issues with the rear brake antilock mechanism.

2) For the front: I'm assuming that since I'm not going for much more lift than 1" above stock that I don't need to worry about the front diff ECGS bushing or lowering the front diff, but there seems to be differing opinions on this.

 

Just below GVWR for towing purposes with about 150lbs in the bed and full steel armor underneath with an Apogee Offroad steel rear bumper. That's a lot of extra weight back there...

Note how there is very little sag in the rear. I have the Stage 2 system and did not add a leaf or use airbags. This is just the Eibach Stage 2 2.0 rear shocks and factory leaf springs doing their job.

 

Does anyone know how much travel the rear shocks have stage 1 or stage 2? Seems eibach leaves out that information

 

That's the stage one. I think stage two is the same travel but also has the resi

 

Has anyone run this kit set to 2.5" of lift and kept their stock UCA's?

I've found a guy selling this kit near me on facebook, new in box, with 1.5" AAL all for $1,200. Thinking of biting, but I don't want to fork over the cash for aftermarket UCA's right now. My tires are 265/70/R16 and I won't be upsizing until they wear out, so I don't think rubbing will be an issue. My question is more in regard to getting alignment in spec. My hope is that I can get by with stock UCA's for the next 10-15k miles and upgrade the UCA's whenever I go up in tire size.

 

With 2.5" of lift your caster will probably be out of spec. Will probably only get .5 degree to maybe 1.3 degrees. Depends on what the tech does. I couldn't get more than 1.4 degrees with my 2" lift. The truck will certainly be driveable. Might have some bump steer and wander with the low caster.

 

Earlier in the thread I posted that I am using stock UCAs with about 2.3" of lift, just a smidge under 2.5 inches. And no problems with alignment afterwards. Plus I just took a seven state trailer road trip and had zero issues. Stock 17" wheels. I'm loving this suspension, best upgrade I've done to my truck. I did it when I had about 1000 miles on it so the factory suspension is still practically new. Wonder if there is a market for that?

 

Thanks for the input, that's what I was hoping to hear! Do you remember how many degrees of caster you were able to get?

Also, did you install the coilovers at the height they came set on, or did you raise / lower with the spanner?

 

Lol, sup Brannon. Small world. I recognized your driveway in that photo and the truck from your IG posts.

Our trucks are twins, And it sounds like we may also be buying the same lift lol

 

I used the spanner wrench to adjust them a bit, that's why they are slightly lower. According to the alignment sheet that Les Schwab gave me, the caster didn't change at all. Camber changed 0.1 degree on left and 0.2 degrees on right. Toe changed the most and was a huge adjustment on both wheels.

 

Awesome. I'm going to buy them and may just adjust down to about 2" until I get new UCAs and want to upsize tires. 2" will probably be better with the 1.5" AAL anyways because I want to keep some rake.

Thanks for the info!

 

One more question - did you do the ECGS bushing swap with this lift?

I'm trying to decide if I should just do it as preventative maintenance. I'm planning on installing the lift myself but from watching a video on the ECGS bushing it may be beyond my mechanical expertise.

 

I would just do it to be safe. I did my lift and did the bushing replacement while i was doing everything else because i would have been annoyed to have vibrations immediately, and have to take a bunch of shit apart right after i had put everything back together. If you can do the lift you can do the bushing. But the removal and install tool to make it easy. The hardest part imo was positioning the tool properly to make sure its actually pulling the bearing out and not breaking the tool. Go slow, and if after a few turns you dont see the bearing moving, back it off and reposition the tool. I also used a couple small sockets on the axle housing to space out the tool and make sure the tool didn't mess up the axle seal because i wasn't replacing the seal. There are tons of videos online that will help make it easier. Trust me, it seems kind of daunting, but it's easier than it seems