Fuel leak

great point!
It might be really up-close and personal, past anyone's comfort zone, but if you could find someone to hold that tube assembly in place, while you HAND TIGHTEN that nut down several turns,, you should be GTG.

 

I think that was the original issue from what she tried. With those metal lines if they are a little tweaked like hers they will snug up and it will feel like it's tight but the flare won't be seated and it will leak. I'm used to dealing with them on Cummins common rail trucks they have exact same injection lines. If you try and snug one side all the way without evenly tightening them they will act like that. Sometimes a little brute force you can bend the line back into the right shape but you have to be super carful or you can make it way worse.

 

C’mon, Steph. You can do it!

 

Do you have a shorter extension where you could sneak the entire ratchet, extension, and crows foot under that plastic cal but above the line? Otherwise, your best bet looks like removing that fuel pressure sensor to the right then you would have miles of room to snug both sides of that line. That sensor has brass flats on it that are made so you can unscrew it and remove it.

 

If i could get in there for just a minute...i think i read not to remove the sensor..IDK

 

Idk guys, I feel like giving up dont mean to be that girl but all i wanna do is cry haha. I haven't had my truck for like 2 weeks. I thought I had it when I put it all back together. Clearly not. That damn flare nut is a bitch to even slightly move.

At this point im gonna let it burn
Jk jk

 

Im sorry Steph

 

That's okay, I'm use to life fuking me right now. I'll figure it out somehow.
Though how I cross post this ?

 

Select forums at the top..then regional..post in southern cali

 

You read my mind, I was about to suggest the same thing.

 

It's all good this stuff can be easy if you have the right tools. But if you don't have the right tools it can be really really difficult and frustrating. Your doing the right thing but asking for help especially if you're uncomfortable with doing the work.

As mentioned by previous posters it's not something you want to toy around with as it's very easy to start a fire on accident or end up with a fuel pressure injury, especially on the high-pressure fuel side of things. Diesel trucks use the same style of pump but more pressure. I heard of a tech stuck his hand behind one of those lines looking for a leak and not thinking. At idle on Cummins, the fuel pressure is upwards of 3000 psi. It cut his hand and got into his bloodstream and made him super sick.

Best of luck sorry your struggling it's just part of the game.

 

Dang you guys- we should get AJ (@FreshMexicanTaco) or someone like him to go help. I’d be willing to pitch in for his trouble…

 

Click this link and post your issue in here
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/san-diego-bs-thread.124945/

 

Had any luck

 

a little off topic, here
But what you heard absolutely happens! I have been in fluid power for almost 20 years, and this was on the top of the safety training. Folks tend to want to put their hand out to feel if something is leaking (air, liquid, heat, cold, etc),,, they do it even though they know they're not supposed to. We were taught to grab a broom, any type of extension that you can use to hold to the surface. A pinhole sized leak at several thousand PSI can sever a finger off like a laser, and today, were are running 4,5,6,10 thousand PSI through hose assemblies. And the hydraulic fluid in the bloodstream can be poisonous.

back on topic, waiting to hear if OP found some local help,,, hopefully.

 

Think you really have tow options. Muscle the nut on and tighten it. Or remove the sensor so you have better access. No matter what don't use that adjustable wrench.

 

Not yet. Debating if I should go get those other wrenches someone suggested. But the other guy has me a little worried that I might lose a finger or something haha. All seriousness. I'm stuck that other side feels impossible to loosen and im nervous to break something. That line isn't to bad its like$50 at toyota but I still run into the same issue of it going on correctly

 

I still think you could have a better shot at loosening it with the right size open end wrench...or a shorter extension on that crow foot..if you could just bend that line over just a smidge it would go...

 

Hoping you get this fixed asap.

The East Los Angeles way:

I’ve used a grinding wheel in the past to lessen the width of wrenches to fit in tight spaces and give just enough room for clicks. You don’t want to take away too much material, just enough to hold without breakage.

I would also recommend an open end wrench like others have suggested. Then use a “breaker bar” technique on it. You’ll need a wrench with two open ends (noted by red square-I did t have a wrench with two open ends). One has to be 22mm. The other open end can be 21/23mm. You’ll then use the 21/23mm side to accept another wrench as a breaker bar. You can use your left hand to stabilize the open end wrench on the nut. Mechanical advantage.

Good luck!!!!

 

Do yourself a favor and cover the port openings on the cylinder heads, if something drops in there you're going to have a much bigger problem.

 

Yes, thank you I have it covered.