Supercharger fail

So you wired it back to stock, and you're still getting the same codes? This may seem redundant, but you did disconnect the battery, then reconnect it yes? @Jfaircloth83

 

Well with the error codes a crankshaft control valve is listed and a throttle position switch is also. Its like 80 dollars worth of parts. I just wonder where i could have gone wrong wiring it.

 

Yep that's what I thought it's a piggy back ecu. Honestly one of the worst ways to tune a vehicle they just don't work well and if they aren't set up correctly they can damage the truck. They have very limited abilities to change settings. Basically what it doing is intercepting the signals to and from the factory ECU modifying it and sending it out to different components of the truck such as timing, fueling etc...I would not run your truck on that. If you are keeping the supercharge I would wire it back to stock and go speak with OTT or one of the other VF tuners that have experience with tuning these trucks for FI. Not trying to be harsh but you playing with a lot of money and fire trying to run that thing un-tuned or on a piggyback like that.

 

Also, this looks questionable. How are you making the connections? This stuff especially anything tied into crank and cam signals has to have a really really solid connection. It looks like you just electrical-taped them back together (could be wrong). Make sure everything you are splicing back together is soldered and heat-shrunk. Hopefully, nothing shorted in the factory ECU's. This stuff is not hard to damage if you short something together and power it up.

I would:

1. Disconnect your battery. Step on the brake pedal to make sure you discharge any power the truck might be holding.
2. Remove that piggyback ecu re-solder and heat shrink all the original factory harnesses back to stock.
3. Re-connect the battery and clear all codes with a scan tool.
4. Return completely to stock and remove the supercharge and sell it OR purchase a VF license and have a good tuner custom-tune the truck on VF for the supercharger.

I would not drive that thing till it has a tune in it. You have no idea if it's rich or lean or what the timing is doing. FI needs more fuel added and timing pulled as the boost comes in (generally). Plus the stock trucks are MAF-based it only reads airflow not pressure it won't understand what is going on with the supercharger.

 

Does anyone happen to know the level of catastrophe,? So far, without returning it stock.?

 

Probably a solid 5/10.

 

I have zero experience with installing superchargers, but I would be worried about detonation and pre-ignition leading to destroyed pistons or piston rods as the worst case scenario.

Forced injection causes the pressure in the combustion chamber to increase and this increases the chance for detonation and pre-ignition. If the ECU doesn’t compensate for this (e.g. retard timing and enrich fuel-air mixture), very bad things can happen. On the bright side, I believe the ECU can detect detonation and pre-ignition and compensate for it. Forced induction might be like a curve ball though.

More info here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5bJlFHKOX0

 

Not sure just depends on what it's doing. It doesn't sound like you have hurt anything yet just sounds like you have an electrical issue now from splicing into the engine harness.

 

start checking ECU wiring on these pins.

Throttle codes:
pins 31, 22



Camshaft:
pins 10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17

 

Not apples to apples with your mods but maybe a clue. I had the same symptoms, rough running, stumbling and stalling. All the warning lights for trac, oil trans etc ca, can be a symptom of a stall (weather from physical bogging or something else). In my case it ended up being a vacuum line I forgot to reconnect after doing plugs. I could keep it running (roughly) by feeding throttle but would stall on idle. I am not sure if a vacuum gauge would give any indication here but may be worth double checking all the vacuum lines.

 

Im leaning towards a wiring / control problem same as mentioned above, but did you follow the advice a page back and confirm the SC spins by hand without the belt?

 

We can't tell you how bad this is until you return it to stock and confirm that it starts. If it doesn't start when you return it to stock, this could be a 10/10. If it works as stock, it could be a 1/10 trivial wiring issue.

Return it to stock.

 

How do you splice wiring? You cannot just splice CAN network wiring. Has to be appropriately solder.

 

i would honestly be worried running anything boosted without a wide band, boost gauge and data logging. You are really flying blind and assuming that converter box (basically what it is) is doing its job for fuel and the waste gate is releasing at the correct pressure.

 

Sc spins freely. Reinstalled stock belt. Maf sensor to air box, reinstalled stock injectors and attempted to start, sounds better (stock). Wont start though. This is as close to stock as i want to get right now. This is the code thay disappeared though... my soldering sucks. Ive got new tools, heat shrink available tommorrow. 1/4 codes gone.

 

Still same problem. Its got to be the wiring

 

I doubt this setup has a wastegate.

 

whatever it uses to bleed pressure.

 

The head gasket?

 

in some cases yes thats an outlet lol.