LS6 Swap 2nd Gen Build + New Tundra

Well freaking done!

 

Well, first shake down drive went, uh, well. I guess.
I have a few drips coming from my power steering lines, not worried about those, but there are a couple small drops coming from the trans pan again. Guess I need to retorque those. My Speedometer and gas gauge don’t work anymore which is annoying, but not the end of the world.

the reason I’m upset is because it slipped my mind that I took my Home Depot core support out, so when I left, this happened:

hood flipped up and shattered my windshield. Small price to pay I guess. Glad it happened at a lower speed and in my neighborhood and not on a busy road.

 

Oof

 

If it’s not overheating right now driving around the oven you live in, I’d say you’re good on that front lol

 

Yeah it’s 112 today and it stayed right at 205 most of the drive. Crept up to 214 but it leveled off and fell back to 205. I probably need to bleed it again.

 

It just seems crazy to me how you couldn’t get it to bleed until you added that fill port. Might have to do with radiator height since mine is almost entirely above my bed. What size hose did you end up using to do the runs?

 

1.5 inch ID hose.

 

She’s breathing filtered air finally, lol.

need to redo the PCV system, the way I have it is wildly incorrect and led to me sucking a bunch a valve cover oil right into the intake

Friday I’m going to try driving it to work. Wish me luck lmao.

 

Sweet! Now you just need to pull all those hose and put some fancy colored hose sleeves on to show off your handiwork.

Can't wait to see how it does in the desert with that extra power.

 

Windshield is fixed, the glass cost me 63$. Installed, new moldings and everything, it was 330$. Cant believe how affordable it was, lol.

Catch can got here, Going to get it put in tonight. For the first time in over a year, the truck is going to DRIVE to 454 motorsports instead of being loaded on a flatbed.

 

@Dm93 Is there a fuse for the wireless key remote ecu? I tried programming mine and nothing happened, no door locks moved or anything.

 

It's powered by the ECU-B fuse, are you sure your truck had keyless entry?

 

It didn’t, I bought the wireless key receiver and plugged it in when I did the dash. It has power locks. From my understanding that’s all I needed, no?

 

Yea it should be, check the ECU-B fuse.

 

Also, is there any reason why my fuel tank gauge wouldn’t work anymore with everything disconnected?

same with my speedometer.

 

Fuel Gauge wiring goes straight from the cluster to the sending unit so if it's not working you either have a cluster problem, broken/disconnected wire, or bad sensing unit.

Speedometer depends, did the truck originally have an auto or manual transmission?

 

Originally manual.

I wonder if the float is stuck or something cause it’s reading a quarter tank.

 

are you using the stock gauges? And did you get the speedo hooked up to your transfer case?

 

if you disconnected or damaged any of the 4 wheel speed sensors it will make the whole cluster non functional. those wires are very easy to stretch and break internally while tye jackets still appears fine. i would suggest continuity testing the fronts, it is a very common problem people snap them cycling their suspension etc

 

On 05-11 2nd gen manual transmission models the speedometer gets it's signal from the Output Shaft Speed Sensor on the transmission/transfer case, all others get it from the ABS module which uses the rear wheel speed sensors.