Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

For those of you out there like me, dealing with the electrical part for the first time, here’s a good video that explains exactly what koditten is describing:

https://youtu.be/Zx86_ljwua8?si=jrr8EXLEiXQJhsKg

 

Got it going this morning. Runs great, few little tweaks to do. Not charging.
I’m getting nearly 18VAC from the stator. I expected more.

When I connect the exciter wire (violet) it pops the 20A key switch fuse.

Im thinking the reg is fried. When I connect my meter to the 12+ terminal and the violet wire to measure DC amps, I get nothing. If I connect violet to regulator, it pops the fuse.

 

The exciter is the one that triggers the the starter solenoid. It's usually blue. Is this what you are referring to?

The violet or purple wire is the one that comes from the voltage regulator (12v+), it is the one that charges the battery.

The voltage regulator 12v+ has to be connected to a battery. It will not register voltage until it has a place to send the voltage. This may be why you think the VR is shot.

Is this what you got going on?

Whatever you do, do not send 12v+ to the kill wire. It will smoke the coils.

You got this. Just a matter of figuring out which wires go where.

 

Ok my mistake, I accidentally called the violet wire the exciter wire.

I’ll put it this way, my only issue is charging and popping the key switch fuse.

Kill wire on the Ferris is white, grounds out when key is off. Works perfectly.

When I connect violet to the regulator, the key switch fuse pops.

It did run for a bit connected, but eventually it pops. When it was running I tested DC amp output and had nothing. One lead on regulator, one on violet wire. I did this test starting the mower with everything hooked up.

 

Have you checked the stator for continuity? It should only read about .04 ohms or close to that.

I find it hard to believe it's shorted out, but it's easy to test.

 

Yep, tested good, right around there.

Also puts out around 18V AC.

Edit, here’s the regulator I’ve got. I have another identical one kicking around I gotta try to find.

Edit: I wonder if something is shorting out from when I pressure washed the machine, not sure water would be enough to pop a fuse though. :shrug:

 

$200 rear tine tillers for sale at Home Depot [or free shipping to your house] right now. They are just the ''legend force'' brand but for $200, if you have just a small garden, these will likely be fine for years. Normally they are well over $600. $699.00 normally, $50-$100 off on a normal sale]

Not everyone can afford a $1200 troybilt but most can spring for a $200 tiller.

They did have front tine tillers on sale also [Champion] for $200, those are sold out, 5K of the rear tillers left and I'd bet they sell those out.

Betting they are dumping them due to late in the season [for planting] and it's possible they won't be able to meet emission standards if they change in 2024.

I have a 2 stroke cultivator I use just to weed, it's been fine for a couple of years but I still use the old Ariens Rocket tiller in the spring.

You can't hardly buy just a 208cc horizontal gas engine alone for $200 any more.

 

Thanks!

That was a good deal. I even got the MIL discount on it, so my price with tax was just under $200.

 

I thought about getting their CC and saving more but I hate credit and don't like store cards anyways. Free shipping is a heck of a deal, I can't get a can/case of ammo shipped for $25 any more, much less a tiller for free. That would likely run $85 bucks or more.

Heck, it even gives the ''Finger Fumbler Phil'' a couple of seasons to put it together. [With loctite on the rotating/vibrating bits of course]

 

From the manual, looks like my reg is the top two terminals are stator and bottom is +12v violet. Seems weird to me, is it normal for the +12v (violet) to be on the terminal that’s also got an AC wire on it @koditten ?

Look closely at the diagram and you can see what I mean, and again at the reg.

Tracing wires looking for a short now. And gotta make sure I got a good ground on the reg too.

 

That is correct. I'm used to the regulators that have the 12v+ in the middle.

 

It looks like they are bridged together so you should be fine in the middle or bottom.

 

I'm not following.

The 2 top posts are both AC. Your engine makes AC. The voltage regulator turns the 2 AC wires into a single 12v DC.

I hope I'm tracking.

 

I think I'd source a different regulator.

That taking 1 leg for ac lighting is screwing up our conversations.

 

I wonder if that bridge is what is blowing the fuse. The way that reg works, you will be sending both AC and DC to the key switch.

I honestly have not dealt with type of regulator.

 

THIS. This is what I’m asking.

Im thinking that the bridged terminals should be both AC, the single separate terminal should be +12v. That’s why it doesn’t make sense to me.

 

Gonna share this w/u all.

My super duty actually gets better mileage than my Taco.

This was the other day Rollin down a 2 lane.

Speed is everything in my big baby & if I run up @78mph? It drops to about 18.5

 

Don’t bring your facts in here.

 

Hence, I'd find a normal VR.

 

Got one on the way. AC terminals on the outside and the DC terminal center.

Also, fun fact: I checked the RPM at WOT and it was a little low. I adjusted it to about 3550RPM @ wide open throttle. Stator is now putting out 30VAC. Awesome.