Synthetic oil change every 10k?

You ideally want wear metals to be close to 0 or just barely above. Universal averages does not mean something to target. 9 on iron is pretty high, IMO. What oil viscosity oil are you using?

 

This brings up questions I’ve always had when people post their oil sample analyses: how are the universal averages or targets calculated? If they’re based on an average of only oil samples they’ve received from the same motor, that invites a ton of statistical methodology questions. You said it, just because a number is an average doesn’t mean it’s a desirable target.

 

Average as I take it, indicate's its within specs of what you should have.

 

I'm lucky to put on 5k miles/ year.
Typically do a full synthetic once/yr. depending.
You can change it every week if you like or be like this one guy I knew who just added oil when it got low and never changed it. lol

 

I cook with olive oil all the time, it has its frying limits that it can't be used like vegetable or canola oils. I still think synthetic motor oil is better to sauté a v6.

 

The question for Blackstone would be, what you should have, based on what? Only two possibly answers in my mind, one is based on a reasonably large data set, the other is based on some type of engineering predictive analysis.

 

I disagree, who is Blackstone to moderate this? Universal averages is just the average seen by submissions. You want to target little to no wear metals. If Tac2021 is using 0w-20 I can almost guarantee if he switches to a thicker viscosity oil with more anti-wear additives his iron will go down.

 

They oil that was drained was dealership oil. Let’s compare it with the next drain and test. I filled it with Quaker State 0-20 Ultra.

 

Because they refuse to believe the owners owners manual or don't bother to read it.

 

Refuse to believe the owners manual? I suggest you read it again if you think You can’t run thicker viscosity than 0w-20. Page 546 if that helps. Also, it’s obvious what the service manual states. You can run anything between 0w-20 to 15w-40.

 

All I know is when I sent 15k mile samples of 5w30 mobil1 oil out for my 2001 4.7 tundra at 100k miles, and again at 200k miles, both samples were very similar in metal readings resembling the average ones listed. Even though I don't own the truck today, I know it still running fine.

 

I'm running 5w-30

 

8 quarts?

 

Oh I'm fully aware of what's in the manual this is why it is important to actually read it. Toyota spend millions of dollars perfecting these things listen to them not what the want a be neighbor mechanic suggested. Personally I like my 5K changes it also forces me to check every thing while I'm under it actually greasing U joints etc. I'm a 38 year veteran of the fix it industry before I got a clean job!

 

I won't run 5w30 in my 3.5 again the next time I change the oil. On very cold winter mornings, my engine wasn't happy when I started the truck. It never had any issues with the stock

$52 0w20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0w20 oil. Maybe in the southern parts of the country 5w30 is fine, but not here.

 

Ah yeah that's part of my tirade. I'm in Maine it gets cold! Toyota spent good money putting this all together, listen to them.

 

This is because you don’t understand oil viscosity. They also make 0w-30 and 0w-40, which is definitely higher quality oil than 0w-20 for engine protection. For the 100th time, the fist number in the oil rating is cold temp viscosity. The second is hot. Not ambient hot but when the motor is hot... What you want to do is protect the engine more when the motor is hot and under load. Particularly if you are towing. There is a reason why Porsche fills their vehicles with 0w-40.

 

Yes I do fully understand viscosity yes I do tow an 18 foot camper yes I spent 38 years fixing exotic cars so I have a clue. Oil is oil every one uses it, it is the same stuff no matter where it comes from it does not come from a special well all into it's self. If any one knows best it is the manufactures. Not a back yard want a be mechanic. News flash I do not change my oil by the weather. Why is that? well it is because of the two viscosities. My two previous Toyotas only had 300+ K on them when I sold them. The quality has nothing to do with the viscosity. By the way Porsche used to use a dry sump what do you think about that? No oil in the crank case?

 

No offense my friend, but anyone who says oil is oil is not an expert on the subject and does not have experience with UOA’s / comparing wear metals. There is a huge difference between high quality oils with high concentration of anti-wear additives vs generic garbage. Yes toyota engines last forever, in general, but I’m not satisfied with the status quo. Especially with modern formulations and the trend go as thin as possible to give slight MPG advantage over engine wear.

Very good article on the subject.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils

 

Ha, good one BillyBoy