Long Travel BS Thread

Should I ignore my rear main leak and bring the truck anyways

 

No
Fix your stuff nerd

 

I need to take the motor back out once I have the truck back and send it off to be completely resealed and checked over.

 

Have them Cerakote everything too
I have had 99% of my parts Cerakoted and it has made life so much easier on cleaning

but I also live in a road salt area so….

 

Yours too? Mines seeping pretty bad. Probably pulling the transmission next weekend. New rear main, flywheel and clutch ready to go

 

Definitely

 

As stated, valving is a crucial part to ride quality. Another is spring rate. What rate are you running? I've noticed that the wider kits tend to allow a softer spring rate or less preload. Obviously the motion ration plays a huge factor in this but I'm going to go down from the 600lbs springs I had on the DK 3.5" kit. Was way too stiff with the 600s. At least what little road driving I did with it.

 

yeah but won’t it blow through compression offroad if you do that ? from what i’ve learned over the years anything tuned to handle big bumps is going to ride like shit on the street…pick one you can’t have both

 

Tuning tuning tuning!!! Well I guess riding like shit on the street is subjective. I feel my truck does both pretty good. But I realize I’m driving an almost 6k lb truck with no sway bars so it’s probably gonna have some buddy roll and what not. But it “soaks up” small road cracks and bumps just fine

 

Not necessarily. Thats where valaving comes in. It’s all about finding a balance. Especially if you throw in things like secondary shocks, etc.

Thats true to an extent. There are a lot of things you can do to minimize this effect but generally your expectations of ride quality has to change depending on what the truck is used for.

 

With the Stock valving from camburg, when I got my Foxs through them and their kit, I could feel every crack in the road, but it’s soaked up to speed bumps, and did great off-road. I just thought that’s how it was, and to a certain extent if you were running just a coil over, you have to make a compromise to handle bigger whoops.

I somewhat recently got secondary bypasses, and even with the tubes all the way open, it was still extremely stiff. Like I couldn’t bottoms the truck with medium roughness driving since I pretty much doubled the shock and oil volume in the suspension set up.

I got my coilovers revalved by a local guy in orange county, Onyx Shocks, as they needed a rebuild anyhow after a few years of daily driver and offroad duties.
I told him that I felt my suspension was now a bit stiff overall with my recent addition of bypasses, as the coilovers were originally valved to work alone.
I don’t know everything he did, but he said he lightened the valving and put a flutter stack in… the front suspension now works better and is more comfy on and off road than it has ever been.

With a background in ”pro” motocross, I knew how suspension was supposed to work, but didn’t really understand what needed or could be changed inside the shocks. But tuning is everything, and off-road driving no matter what vehicle urine is the pinnacle for that.

 

We’ve talked a lot about spring rates in this thread of late, and from hearing it, ive been drawn to the conclusion that there’s more than one way to skin that cat. When I was at Jd fab for SUA we took most of the preload off the 18x500s to get it level up front. Sure, it has more body roll but for a truck I want to float and take some hits, it doesn’t bother me. I want it to be soft and not interfere much on compression. That’s where I want the shock to take control, correct? And if it’s blowing through travel too fast, it could be fixed by either changing the compression stack or tuning the bump zone? That’s the way I’ve been looking at running a softer sprung suspension setup.

clearly that’s not the only way to do it, given that @snowsk8air2 ’s truck works just fine with stiffer springs. I don’t know the secret sauce him and Tyler at ADS cooked up for that to work, but perhaps they took most of the compression valving out and are tuning the heck out of the rebound? The point is, whatever springs ya got, they have to work together with the shock and travel to achieve the desired results. We’ll see if my setup is too soft in a few weeks at the flagstaff meet.

 

Definitely different ways to achieve shock tuning goals. Maybe I’m ignorant to some things as well as I never have tried a longer and softer spring other than what little we’ve messed with on @Sixthelement truck. And all this spring weight talk I went back and looked at weights. My truck is pretty front heavy. Only about 50lbs lighter than his truck and he’s got a 12klb winch up there. All I knew when ordering my shocks from dirt king was that I was running a 650lb coil on mid travel and didn’t want to go back down to the 600lb they usually come with. So I opted for the 700lb spring not knowing much about tuning or being able to achieve desired ride height with a lighter but longer spring. That said I do feel it’s the right spring for me considering I’m just shy of cool bind with as much preload as I am running to maintain my ride height. As for valving, it’s a lot less secretive than what Brian and I came up with to make things work with just the coil over. But with the coil over and bypass now, coil is 10/10, bypass is a fuckton of 20 and then 10 on rebound.

 

To add to that. We had originally tried a 18” 600lb spring and it was too much. Even under the little pre load to get it loaded on the CO. We swapped to a 16” 650lb No preload, and it’s been working awesome. Granted every truck is different. Oh and last weight my truck was 3260 steer axle. For an idea.

 

I need to finally go get mine from camburg. Can't wait to get it installed.
What did you go with for internals?

 

I’m not sure on all the specifics of the internals yet. Once I get more specific information I will let you know. I’m kinda dumb with this stuff. I have lots to learn still but so far I went with 4.86 and a spool

 

love my camburg 9". i went with a arb air locker with 5.29 nitros from ecgs.

 

Who all has a fuel cell installed on their truck? I’m tired of my truck getting a full tank and not able to drive straight through to San Diego from Phoenix, or wherever I’m camping. I’m trying to figure out which way I want to go with my truck for this. I’m 3 linking the truck in the next year or 2 because I need a bed, I need to be able to haul stuff still but I want 20-22 inches of travel and preferably keep the stock gas tank simply for emissions and it’s a daily driver that will still have my daughters in the back. I’m going to cage the truck and accommodate them and their seats in the design but that’s another story.

I have a 20 gallon fuel cell with a sump that is gravity fed sitting in my garage. Is it worth fabbing up a mount between the rails for it, installing a pump that feeds it into the filler neck for the stock gas tank and have plumb it in that way or just bite the bullet and get the biggest jazz tank I can fit in the back and lose most the bed but make it removable?

I’m trying to walk the fine line of Prerunner toy but still functional as a truck with my build so this is the one idea I keep thinking about and then doing other projects on the truck first.

 

If you're linking the truck that pretty much rules out having a tank in the OEM location doesn't it? I was going to say the long range America 33gal tank might be a great option for you, but not if you're linking your truck.

 

With a 3 link you can keep the OE tank, the long range tank has a lot of clearance issues with anything but a stock-ish truck ie: drive shaft at full bump & articulated and it also hangs below the frame which is a bad idea IMO