The Official Unofficial Super Pacific X1 Camper Thread

I went with 2 100W CIGS Flexible panels. I did so because I didn't want any more height on the truck. From all my research they are more durable, can hadle micro-cracks, handle shadow areas better and have a higher conversion efficiency.

 

Those are what i was looking at from bouge rv. Aside from hating their name, i have their fridge and its great. Price is decent too. Also. Didnt want to add height either. Thanks

 

Does anyone have one of the two of the old style awing brackets they'd like to sell? Like the one in the photo on the right.

 

I got lucky and found 2 of these on ebay open box and local pickup. $100 for both!
100 watt zamp compatible Flex panel (offthegridrvs.com)

 

If you don't want to add height, flex panels are the way to go. My Renogy panels have worked great for two years now. Make sure you get panels that can handle a bit of shade hitting bits of the panel with the remaining cells that do get sun still delivering power. If I recall, this was an issue with rigid panels and some flex panels.

Some people have mounted flex panels with commercial velcro, VHB or other tape/glue which is the lowest profile possible.

I mounted them a bit different to give some airflow underneath since I'd read that overheating could be a problem when they are mounted direct to a surface. Haven't heard any complaints about that since though, so maybe it wasn't widespread. My setup has been solid regardless.

Here's a link to what I did - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...1-camper-thread.673574/page-263#post-26510201

 

Has anyone put their bed platform and additional sliding pieces on struts?

 

Added 2 vents on either side of the camper. Offset with the passenger side on the forward end of the shell, to avoid noise and exhaust fumes, and one of the driver's side at the rear where my dog will be handing out. Vents can be flipped either way to act as positive pressure vents or otherwise.

 

I only skimmed this thread so sorry if this came up before, but I'm curious how this does when out in the weather year round. My truck is my daily driver so it will sit in the sun all day while at work or rain or snow, etc. Seems like it could get pretty hot and maybe the roof or bed platform could warp. I haven't been able to confirm the material, but seems like a plastic of some sort for the roof and bed platform.

Conversely, does anyone take it off during non-use seasons such as keeping it in storage during the winter? Is that at all realistic or simply too heavy and cumbersome without access to a lift of some sort?

 

Never heard of warping being an issue. I've had my camper for 2 1/2 yrs now. No issues. The roof material is white which would help reflect heat. And it's pretty thick.

Camper weighs something like 375 lbs so you'd need a lift or a bunch of friends to help. It would be possible to remove it, but don't think it's worth the effort. You'd probably need to replace the seal material each time. FWIW I love having the canopy for security and keeping things clean. Mine stays on.

 

Thanks. Since these are relatively new it may take a while before issues develop if they are going to but good to know there aren't any indications yet.

I have a regular topper right now and I do like the secure-ish storage so I'm sure the SP will be great in that respect. However, being bigger with more wind drag I'm assuming it will reduce gas mileage so leaving it on year-round could be less than ideal in that respect. Still not sure it will fit in my garage either. I have a 82" opening and a 2" lift. With the SP I think it's going to be really close to max without much room for error.

 

Fitting in the garage was a major concern for me as well. If I recall, the X1 is 29 or 29.5" above the height of the bed sides. They were able to give a measurement before I bought, might be on their website now under specs. My garage is a pretty standard height, can't recall the number. I have around 1/4" clearance right now, but that's because a dip in the middle of the access lane causes the back of the truck to rise when backing in to the garage, as my front wheels enter the dip. If not for that I'd have 3-4" of clearance. It's an easy measurement if your driveway is flat. If it has a slope you need to take that into account.

I posted somewhere earlier in this thread, I track mileage on a spreadsheet. Before getting the X1 I had gotten 18mpg average since buying the truck. Since buying it I've averaged 17.5. How you fast you drive will have a lot more impact than putting on the X1. Mileage drops fast as I get above 70-75 on the freeway. That was the case before I got the X1 as well.

 

This has been a thought of mine as well. I'm curious to hear the answer too. Not sure how I'd go about it, but would be nice to just push it up instead of sliding the pieces and folding the Exped.

 

i have an 84" garage opening, ~2" lift, and 80/20 aluminum extrusion bars up top which adds 1.78". I clear it with about .5-.75" to spare depending on fuel load and whats in the bed

 

Thanks. That's a tight squeeze. I probably won't have a full inch and I'm on 265/75/16 tires so another 1/2 gone. New tires or a pebble on the driveway and I could end up scraping or worse and I have a sloping driveway too.

 

Don't recall off hand the height of my apt garage but have a similar set up with a couple of the newer low profile Zamp solar panels at the front. Stick up maybe 1/4" give or take. I put about 160# bumper plates on the tailgate. I also have some basic drawers and base plate. Not sure if that weight helps any but the plates drop the rear just enough to move it in and out. It does rub against the rubber trim they put along the top but goes in and out ok. Garage floor isnt' flush with the parking lot so I'm going up into the garage a bit.

 

Does anyone have the Icon RTX leaf pack and the SP? I'm currently on Option 2 with my fiberglass topper and it seems to ride great. The SP seems at least 200lbs heavier and maybe a bit more so I'm wondering if I should plan on going to Option 3. Anyone do that? How does it drive/ride? Or is Option 2 still sufficient? Or too much sag?

 

i had RXT option 3 and swapped to deavers U402 stage 3 before putting on the SP.

Rxts had noticeable sag when loaded up for a weekend trip, so yes you more than likely need to go options 3.

 

Something worth mentioning if you're concerned about clearance and have a roll-up garage door is to check how the door is adjusted.

The last panel on my door hung down a bit when the door was up. If that's the case it may be possible to adjust it so the whole thing gets pulled closer to the motor which will raise the bottom panel up. It was as simple as turning a screw on the motor case. This gave me an extra 2" or so clearance.

 

Thanks for this message. I had always been thinking about putting RXTs on (option 3).. but, now, I wonder if that just isn't enough. Now I'm wondering about deavers or archive garage leaf springs.

 

yah def get the truck weighed and see where it’s at. I have XXHD Deavers on my truck. They are not listed or were not unless you call. They have XHD (11-1200 over stick) and XXHD (14-1500) over stock. I’m running swingout, larger tires, X1 etc. (upwards of 7k lbs) removing tire, skids and all gear I have gotten to down to 62-6300. Deaver stage 3’s are nice if your closer to the 1k mark but the Deavers are solid.