Battery arc'd now truck won't start

Take a reading from the positive battery post to the engine block. (Battery hooked up)
See if you still have 12v+

If so, we will continue from there.

 

What does the immediate body ground wire to the right of the battery look like? That would become your fuse

 

He did this in post #16
Apparently it shows 12.5v.

So now we need to check engine block ground.

I’m still puzzled by the fact we get power to the cab jumping the truck from another vehicle.
This is definitely one of those cases where I’d like to be there and inspect things myself.
This should be an interesting case none the less.

 

My question that seemed to be ignored "How much damage to the Positive battery terminal "

a jumper cable clamp could make a decent connection no so much the added amperage but a connection to the cable.

 

If it were that bad, you could probably do a voltage drop test and see it.
Battery post to cable clamp.

I really need to grab the diagrams and take a look at where we need to “test”.
Just haven’t done it yet.

 

Ok, I’m looking at the diagrams.
Can you tell what cab lights are not working/ working?

The gauges or the dome light?

 

Also does the horn work?
And with the key in the ignition and turn to on, does the blower fan for the ac/heat run?

 

Yes, there are other body grounds.

 

Update, got power to the cab after recleaning the posts and connectors, will attempt to turn but won't fire. at this point not sure if it not getting spark or fuel or both.

 

@Dm93
I think your assistance/expertise may be needed here.

 

pull and test each fuse for continuity, I've seen broken connector tabs with good links

 

I would suspect one of the main grounds got burnt, have you closely checked the main grounds from the battery to the body, engine block, and frame?

Pictures of your battery and the bracket that got arced?

 

As stated in Post #2, check the ALT fuse.

 

I believe I have the answer to your problem.....Look at the fuse box very carefully...There is a little door on the side with a big fuse inside. A 20 Amp I belive. LOOK FOR THE LITTLE SLIDING DOOR

 

A picture would be a great help.

I can`t recall ever seeing a sliding door.

Just what is this fuse for? Are you talking about The 30Amp AM2 fuse that feeds the ignition switch?

 

After reading a lot of stuff and a few tests I think the problem might lie in the ecu is toast. Tried starting it with a shot of starter fluid and no start or attempted start so im not getting spark.

As requested this is what the post looks like.

 

All fuses check out fine. I think I'm about to throw in the towel and have it towed to the shop as i dont think this is going to be a simple repair and its above my knowledge

 

Have u tried a new battery ? Sounds like u checked everything else .. amperage is what u need to have the starter crank over . Just because u have voltage does not mean the battery is good . U probably fried the battery . Worth a shot to try a new battery .

 

Took it to autozone and it passed its test so idk if that can rule a bad battery out or not.

 

You have Checked out the AM2 Fuse that supplies the ignition switch .

With the damage to the battery I hope you replaced the cable I can see that being a big part.

Good luck this will be getting expensive.

If you were close i could figure this out.