1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Correct.

 

You really just need an equalizer, I'm sure there's a digital one you could plug in. Turn down most of the frequencies besides the 6k ish region.

I just used my detcans. If I was tuning lots of vehicles I would buy some knock ears though.

 

This is what I was thinking. If the modules are small enough. My cluster has some dead space that could be used

 

This is what the 0.96" SSD1308s look like so just lmk what you guys would like. I just wanted to provide a solution that have you adequate sensor space for multiple sensor readouts, but if I don't need to do all the work I planned on for multiple sensors/displays simultaneously that's great

 

I was looking to integrate something into the dash as well. The dual steering wheel mount I have is not stealth enough. I just want AFR and Boost always displayed.

My visual concerns would be:
- Light output (enough lumens during daytime driving w/sun smacking the display)
- Dimming control
- Dash fitment (whatever piece of plastic shroud that is used to fill the hole)

 

Dimming was a thought that supposedly is supported to an extent, which I can implement - just a matter of how. I can do a headlight switch input which auto-dims it like most gauges, I can do a button, and/or I can add it to the "terminal" programming (USB) but that would require a computer to change the brightness every time.
I went OLED over LCD for visibility in sun so don't think anyone could ask for more on that front.
Everyone probably has a different idea of where they want to place the displays, but if you guys give me dimensions I can easily make just front facing bezels. I felt it's a bit scary to make any permanent changes to your vehicle which is why I was designing these as something you could rest on a surface and link together in a 2D way.

I think what I'll do is go ahead and make this stuff available as I continue to work on the 3D prints. That's where I intend on making a little profit anyway if I can. But if people want to get the hardware and cobble something together on their own that's possible very soon, I'll just provide the flash file, parts list, and wiring diagram.

 

Github is live. All further conversation on the topic should occur there or via PM here. Thanks!
https://github.com/treyus30/HT-101CBR

 

I need to configure boost by gear... I've become a danger to 1st and 2nd gear and to a lesser extent 3rd. But first I need a speed signal that works, the feed from my speed sensor in the cluster never reads right for the haltech.

 

Since you regeared and put on 35s, that data from the sensor isn't accurate anyway is it? I suspect you are talking about more than just that.

 

The sensor can be calibrated by the Haltech if the signal is clean, but the issue is the signal is entirely unclean it has zero rhyme or reason in how it registers voltage wise. That said my speedo is dead on so even if I couldn't calibrate it after it would be right. I'm probably going to convert to a mazda speed sensor though.

 

Do you have the two or three wire speed sensor?

 

It's not like the 2WD auto sensor or the 4WD t-case sensors... which are VR or hall effect respectively... it's a rotating magnet closing a circuit with a reed switch inside the cluster. My truck has a cable drive speedo cause 95-97 are cool like that

 

Does your speedo at least have an output to the ECU like mine? I'm still meaning to probe that

 

That's the only output mine has. Issue is a 4 pulse should be easy to zero in on and this one is not.

 

What about getting the speed sensor from a 98+ model and swapping cluster to match?

 

I'd thought about it but the stock cluster is pretty worthless to me anymore, once I get a clean signal to the Haltech I'm just going to switch to the IC7 and replace my cluster entirely.

 

Huh. I wonder if it's half-byte encoded or something more digital than a simple counter

 

Forgot you had that dash. So still just use the newer sensor and send that signal to HT.

 

Everyone who hasn't upgraded to the current ECU firmware version absolutely should. They fixed all the transient throttle issues I've been unable to tune around. Literally took me 10mins to dial it in perfect like I was able to back in ESP. They removed the huge delay on SPI inputs and the internal MAP and boom everything makes sense again. Revs nice and snappy and no glitches or stutters between gears for us manual folks.

 

Do you think it'll be just as good for those of us with an auto?