Better Steering Solutions

Actually, that u-joint CAN be rebuilt. I’ve done it with a greasable one sourced from All Balls. There’s a write-up floating around on Tacomaworld somewhere. It’s much cheaper than replacing the intermediate shaft and an overall improvement.

 

They’re included with the Howe pump kit from Jd fab. I don’t know where else you can source these.

 

What's the going rate for this steering rack?

 

Has anyone seen this upgrade before?

https://toyo-steering.com/products/05-15-tacoma-heavy-duty-steering-tie-rods

Guessing its 100 series tie rod ends. May order some cheap ones off Rock Auto to compare

 

Eh pretty pointless in my opinion. Makes you ream out your spindle, so you are stuck with that outer tie rod now and cant run Tacoma ones again. Cant run a part store inner, since you now have a "custom" inner tie rod.
If you wanted more tie rod strength, just get tie rod sleeves.
But then, the rack is the weakpoint.

 

Tie rod sleeves? Are the inners custom or are they stock Land Cruiser? Looked like stock Land Cruiser but I may be mistaken. I sometimes wonder if the stock rack would last longer with solid mounts. One of the popular pre runner shops figured out that Silverado racks were blowing up until they installed solid aluminum rack bushings.

 

They are machined down lc100s.
I personally blew the seals out of a tundra rack, solid bushings, stock tie rods. Tie rods were fine

 

Impressive!

 

Out of these 4 or so upgrades

is there any single one that’s a clear winner and superior?

Do they have categories of what size tire they handle such as 35 or 37
And intended usage, such as wheeling trails? (Not fast desert jumps)

Current front setup is
-6112
-stock tiny rack, leaking
-UCA
-regular spindle gussets
-33’s, plan to go 35
-Pivots
-stock pump. Oily but likely coming from a tired hose that needs replaced

no point in putting in another tiny one

maybe longer parts up front later on for more travel would be good

 

My $100 200k mile junkyard rack has been doing great for the last 6 months, way easier to swap out than the tundra lol.

Another thing, with my Tundra rack/+2 kit I was getting 3" of toe in at droop. With the stock rack I was only getting .75" of toe out at full droop. So "technically" there is bump steer added. With stock travel I dont think its noticeable though as you dont have that extra 3-4" of droop.

 

did you DIY rebuild the junkyard rack or anything?
I take it it’s a 2nd gen rack
What size tires? Nvm I see sig says 37s

my stock rack has technically never failed or had a major break
Just developed a weep out the boots which is normal for any rack at this age and miles

yes they are a PITA, pulled mine out once to put bushings
Bigger Tundra rack likely makes it even more so

 

Nada, just slapped it in. A stock rack is cake compaired to the Tundra rack in a 3rd gen.

 

Question for those that may know the answer -

RCLT w/ LC200 here, wanting to get the JDfab Howe Pump.

1. The brass fitting was removed from the LC200 rack per the instructions - Can I still use the JDFab pump? Will it affect it in any way?
2. Is there any special adapters I need for the pump to connect to the LC200 rack?

 

Has anyone tried their swing set? https://www.quixoticms.com/product-page/toyota-tacoma-swing-set-steering-w-howe-performance

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BZgrnegF7Mz/?igsh=NzBmMjdhZWRiYQ==

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjtrKm9lUDl/?igsh=NzBmMjdhZWRiYQ==

The guy that built the truck sold it, I’m sure you can find out his new handle on IG with some snooping around…

 

Oh, it looks like it's only a 2wd setup?

Darn.

 

Last I heard it was more of a one off type deal.
A few guys are working on some alternative solutions. Beyond just bolt from early viewing. Plus there are work around for the 3.5 for more room. Aka oil filter relocations.

 

Is the tundra rack seal replacement a difficult job? I’m guessing the rack needs to come back out?

 

the rack needs to go out. You can find a shop to change seals. Mine was relatively inexpensive. Just taking out the rack and putting it back in can be tedious depending on your set up.

 

Do you know why a shop has to replace the seals? Seems like it would just be a few orings flat washers and retaining clips. I’m just guessing, I haven’t takin one apart yet so I don’t really know. I’m just collecting the information for when my time comes lol.