The old 5k or 10k oil change debate

Would it be fair to say that if the oil meets the manufacturers specifications than it's what should be used? So spend $65+ for Amsoil or $25 for Supertech. 30 oil changes at 10k is a $1200 savings, 60 oil changes at 5k is $2400 in savings. Will the Supertech prevent you from getting to 300k? Does the Amsoil guarantee you'll get to 300k? I buy what's on sale. Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Supertech, etc. Amsoil isn't easily available locally, at least at the normal stores that have sales. I'm certainly not afraid of using Supertech. I wouldn't rule out Amsoil either, but I doubt the speciality shops that carry it would have a sale on it. Chances are your truck is going to be written off in an accident or rot into the ground way before you have engine problems due to lower percieved oil quality.

 

Back in 1996? when Consumer Reports did the awesome oil test using 60 New York city cab drivers they touched upon synthetic oils and their 10K intervals. They brought up one very valid point.
They discussed how the average driver these days is pretty poor about checking things, even tire psi. They rarely open the hood themselves, relying on their tech. So a 10k oil change interval doubles the time in which no one is glancing around the engine compartment, checking brakes, etc.
When I left Toyota after a long time and went to Audi they had 10k intervals. It was a daily event where an Audi customer came in with their oil level light on, with 2,500 miles left before their next service. Audi's policy was to add a qt and ship it till the next service, stating the remaining oil was still fine. I think their service interval should have reflected how far someone could reasonably drive without having to worry about dash warning lights coming on.

Debates about which oil is best tends to make me fall asleep. I find all certified oils work pretty well when changed at regular intervals.

 

5k.

 

I just ordered 12 quarts of mobile one European formula for $40

 

my oil capacity says 6.2 quarts with filter change (2.7) but dipstick shows full with just 6 quarts. Should I add another .2?

 

No.



.

 

no, go off your dipstick. Make sure you are parked on level ground.

 

When you install your oil filter it take's about 1/2 a pint of oil to fill it. You don't want to install it dry. It'll then take nearly 6 qts to fill it.

 

If you buy group III conventional oils then shorter oil change intervals are better if you use a quality group IV PAO or group V Ester synthetic oil then you can go the 10,000 miles with no issues at all. Myself I only run Redline group V Ester based synthetic oils in all my vehicles including my John Deere Diesel tractor and my two Yamaha generators. Even my Quincy air compressor uses Redline synthetic air compressor oil to lube the pump.

I have no problem spending more money for a true Group IV PAO or Group V Ester synthetic oil, I refuse to use any group III conventional oil labeled as synthetic.

 

Well mobil1 is not a pure synthetic yet it's highly rated, and all I use. I only buy it at Wally World as it's cheaper than all other places I've shopped. Never had any issues with it either. If others wish to buy more expensive exotic name brand oils, imo, its overkill, just like a lot of other stuff bought on this site.

 

“Full synthetic” is a marketing term not a technical term.

“Let's have a thought about this: Ethylene, the feedstock for PAO production is made by the following: High molecular weight hydrocarbons are cracked over zeolite catalysts. Kniel, Ludwig; Winter, Olaf; Stork, Karl (1980). Ethylene, keystone to the petrochemical industry. New York: M. Dekker. ISBN 0-8247-6914-7. Group III basestock is made by the following: Hydrocracking in the presence of an elevated partial pressure of hydrogen gas, and/or alumina/zeolite catalysts in a catalytic cracker. Reza Sadeghbeigi (2000). Fluid Catalytic Cracking Handbook (2nd ed.). Gulf Publishing. ISBN 0-88415-289-8. So where does it all come from? Oh yeah, crude oil, not some magic PAO well. The difference? Number and severity of the steps and separations, all of which take energy. If I can use a lower energy process, that takes less steps and gives me a finished product with very much of the same basic performance, why wouldn’t I? Especially when I can blend in other stuff that will enhance performance (basestocks and adds) at fairly low treatment rates. I think some people think that PAO and POE come from a magical synthetic basestock well... What will they say when they learn that their ethylene is coming from coal????”

 

Are you absolutely sure it's related to oil? A very high pitched screech? There will still be oil residues in the engine and the screech shouldn't be internal. I had this off and on since I bought it and am pretty sure it was related to belt tension and/or AC tensioner bearing. I think I shotgun-changed it away (belts, tensioner, alternator . . . is it gone yet?)

In my case it would be on startup first thing in the morning and I'd never hear it again. Not every morning either, only sometimes. I love the issues that can't be repeated regularly LOL

 

That sir, hurts my head.

 

When I changed over to 5w30 last fall, then during one -15 morning in winter I started my truck, and it made a loud screech like noise. It never did it again, and it never did it using the

$59 0w20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0w20 oil the dealer had put in it. I just assumed it was this 5w30 oil I used. I'm going back to 0w20 this fall again, so we'll see if this noise ever comes back.

 

it was oil related. only time it's ever done it. guess i should have prefilled the filter. sounded like oil starvation for a half a second.

didn't make any bad noises when i prefilled the oil filter this last oil change.

 

Using synthetic always 10k for me. I'm slacking on my last change it's been 17k! Gotta get busy!

 

Lol, the point is almost every major manufacturer starts off with a base group III now and mixes in additional groups / additives to make fantastic oils. Mobil 1 actually makes the base for Amsoil. This idea that group IV or group V is some kind of magical formulation is marketing BS. Even the term “full synthetic” is marking not technical. Mobil 1 Synthetic is absolutely synthetic oil in quality, and UOA’s prove this over and over. I’m not dogging Redline, they make great oil, but the reality is their oil is recognized for racing applications and has been shown to have some negative aspects for daily driver use. There is no magic formula for the base, it’s the additives that are shown to help with wear and are the most beneficial for 99% of the consumers out there.

 

I will say this too, in relation to my anal break in procedures… lol. I did an oil evacuation of the factory fill at like 250 miles and I was surprised at how dark the oil looked and smelled of fuel…, dilution. It was by no means black but becoming darker brown. I refilled with M1 EF 5w-40 and I’m only at 430 on the truck, but the oil is just as clean as it was when I filled it, even hard to see on the dipstick and has no fuel smell. I know this is not scientific evidence but it sure reaffirms what I have seen in my previous motor applications. Not a fan of 20 weight.

 

Not even through the break in period yet

 

If your are in a climate with super cold temps I would absolutely use a 0w cold. But why not try something that hold up better when hot? Like a 0w-30 or 0w-40. The second number in the oil rating is the viscosity at 212°F. This does not affect cold flow. I would also consider doing an engine flush to help clean out any varnish or particles that are on the oil rings.