Any woodworkers?

Such a Haight-ful response.

 

You don't have to be such an Ashbury about it, he was just teasing.

 

Be sure to remove the 50 years of rust first.

 

Don't make me whip out my coffee can of mixed rusty finishing nails.

 

You should remove the rust from your chisels, while you are at it.

 

I was “volunteered” by my daughter to make one of these for her friend. I plan on making the doors out of three 4” pieces of oak glued edge to edge. Would it be better to install them with the grain running vertical? To reduce chance of warping.

 

I think visually it would look good having it run vertical as I'm assuming the sides of the cabinet are going to be running vertical and it'll all flow as you walk around it. Only issue is if you're using 4" wide stock you've got doors that are just shy of 16" in width, so you'll need 4+ pieces before jointing. If you've only got 3, then you might be running horizontal.

I think the warping issue you'll be fighting either horizontal/vertical but if it's stable stock you should be fine

 

Hey I’m an old hippie, I hate Phillips screws!

 

My mistake, I was thinking of the sides when I said three 4” pieces. I have 6” wide stock. I was just going with 4” wide boards because once I join and rip them, they won’t be exactly 6” wide. I plan on making the doors 1/4” thick also.

 

He's and old hippy and he don't know what to do ... should he hang on to the old? ... should he grab on to the new?

I am too lazy to actively destroy like a Luddite, but some have accused me of having something to do with sticks and mud.

 

Edge-glued and bounded on 3 edges, the sides will warp more easily if only 1/4 in but 1/2 in stock should be fine unless in constant high-humidity space. The structural box should be 1/2 stock in my view.

The doors are probably not sliders but in each bay of its own. Some hinge is required, probably a punch-open-punch-close assembly. 1/4 in stock is decorative facing (albeit pretty decorative if the correct hardwood), not an 18-in by 12-in structural panel like a door.

In short, a box that is attached to the wall only at the back is a block structure that must defy gravity as well as hold whatever the user puts inside. That can only work if the box structure is unquestionable FIRST.

 

I plan on making the box 5/8” or at least 1/2”. She said the doors are sliding type. Maybe I should make them thicker than 1/4”? I am using red oak for the wood. It will be put in her apartment so the humidity level should be fine.

 

Sliding doors are pushed regularly. 1/2 minimum I would say, or stick with 5/8 to share wood with sides.

Something I did with a box product was to build the box without internal corner bracing for appearance. But to avoid the box flex I put another panel at the back of the box INTERNALLY that matches the internal size, so that the back not-obvious panel prevents bending and relieves stress on the main outside joints.

Does she have permission from apartment staff to hang on a wall, given the bracing into wall studs required? Not sure of any options to wall mount unless you build a basic 2x4 pine skeleton that the unit mounts to for the moment ... 2x4 skeleton can be disassembled/moved when she changes apartments.

Here is a picture of a free-standing towel rack that can take a full-sized towel with minimal scrunching, has 3 rods if the recipient has a live-in so each can have a full-towel and the third rod holds 2 hand-towels. Pine, flexes but who pushes towel rack from the side anyway? Note the overlap joints top and bottom.

 

The apartment is owned by another family member, she is allowed to anchor it to the wall. I plan on cutting a rabbit inside each top and side piece. I’ll put a 1/2” panel inside to serve as the anchor piece.

 

Cool. Just asked. "Cannot change the rental house" is my design inspiration for the freestanding towel rack.