Rear Seat Delete Decks

Here is my v2 my first one was flush to the cubbies and boxed off on the sides. I wanted it open for a pass though and a little taller. The pass though is I think 53-54”” from end to end. Nice when transporting a long gun/shotgun and also to be able to reach in and grab something from the side without moving the seats forward. Added some magnets for the lids and we have a fleet of F150s at work one of them was kind enough to donate the rear mat which I cut and it fit nice for the top. It was simple to make and much more functional than my last one.

 

The thickness of your carpet x2. That will be carpet to carpet contact and help keep it in place. I wouldn't want it moving around and generating noise on bumps and such
You will also have to consider how you're going to remove the lid once it's in place. Lot's of examples and ways to do that throughout this thread.

 

it seems simple on the surface, but it's really a lot more complex than that.

i learned looking at published sub box dimensions, everyone has different needs, and a different level of finish acceptability. one box was 8.5" wide at the bottom, another was 6.5" wide, with the poster stating that anyone building a deeper box is a moron.

the rear wall isn't entirely straight, as are the rear door areas, so position height of the platform makes a difference(some guys have put the shelf higher to fit specific items under the shelf), and front seat position also effects overall shelf size as well-- a 5' tall driver gets more rear cargo space than a 6'5" tall driver.

 

I like what you've done here and may copy from this idea when I re-do my hastily built delete. I do have one question. Did you do anything underneath the platform to keep gear from sliding toward the doors and possible falling out when you open the door? I have a molle panel in place of the plastic OEM storage piece, and may go for more of a box frame than the T style you have on the "60" side.

 

Great question.

I did not include anything that would prevent things from sliding out the sides when you open the door, but that was because the three things we are going to be storing under the platform are wedged in there.

If you were going to use that space to hold a variety of smaller, 'looser' things down there, then adding a leg from front to back, at the bottom, and maybe even a short 'wall' would be a great way to take this design to the next level!

 

That's what I'm thinking about as I store some gear under the deck, including the OEM jack and other stuff I may need relatively quick access to. With the side wall, I'd put and access door on it so I wouldn't have to move stuff to lift the deck.

Thanks for the reply. If I go that route, I post it up. But it won't be until the fall. And I have to also figure out access for the dog. I'm thinking 40% side might be a few inches lower than what you have for her getting in and out. And also to let the seat recline when a nap is desirable.

 

Just finished my rear deck today. I framed it with 2x3’s and used 3/4 plywood for the lids.
My first attempt was framed with 2x2’s but it was too rickety. As soon as I get my Blue Sea fuse box mounted under the hood I will run power to the back for my Iceco fridge.
I really didn’t want to rip the factory storage boxes and back wall out so I just left them in

 

Oh man I like this layout. I've been on the fence on what to do. This is easier than cutting compartment holes. Nice job. Totally stealing this.

Any lessons learned besides dot using 2x2's?

 

Just make sure your lumber is straight and plywood isn’t warped, I recommend Home Depot over Lowe’s or a lumber yard if you have one around.I’ve worked for Lowe’s for 23 years but always buy my lumber at Home Depot. The only thing that sucked about this was I had to buy a full sheet of plywood because the lids needed to be 51” wide.
*EDIT: I may add 3” to the height, having trouble getting a few things in the rear compartment.So, plan out what you are going to be storing

 

Built a quick version for my AC.
Eventually I’ll put carpet on it and maybe cut our some access panels for the cubbies underneath.

I did a 2 panel one so I could keep the driver side and still use the back seat on the passenger side.

 

Looks nice. How thick is that wood? It looks like it clears the rear center console enough that something sitting on the wood wouldn't touch/scratch it.

 

Thanks!
It’s 3/4” thick, had to be able to hold the weight of both my dogs.

 

FYI, if you use the factory seat mounts, the front mounts are 3.5” lower than the rears. So, simply use a 2x4. The picture makes it look out of level, but it’s not.

 

Got my new Iceco VL75 Pro in. Wanted to keep at least one back seat but this thing is big so I said screw it and took them all out. Lots of room for storage beside it and underneath still.

 

So a different truck but idea is still good and works for me.
Zim

 

It's not perfect, but I used some ideas from this thread to build my driver side delete for storage and my German shepherd, since I need the passenger side for the kiddos.

I cut it down to about 37.5" long and 21.5" wide. Had to improvise to make it somewhat sturdy since the floor isn't perfect flat

 

I used 5/8" particle board and the cheapest roll of carpet from Home Depot. It was still $20 for a 12x2" piece of carpet

 

I’m still messing with mine lol. Since I already had everything for an auxiliary battery set up and since the battery fit perfect width wise I decided to just install everything, I had to raise it another three inches though.

 

How has this been working? I'd like to something similar with leaving the seat backs in place and just on occasion removing the bottoms and making a platform for the dog for road trips.

 

I'm getting ready to do this. Great thread