Long Travel BS Thread

Best advice ever!

 

oddly that’s what the milestar rep at koh told me to do…lol
but they have to install right? Guess I just gotta get some steelies to have them install than remove them and throw them on my beadlocks…

 

Not sure, I didn’t have my beadlocks yet at that point. It’s worth asking though, they’re good people. I’ve had great experiences at DT.

 

Yeah I think I’m gonna give them a try. They seem like the best option for the money. I checked on what they want for the falkens I have now, $337 a tire (ouch), and those are E-rated. I don’t mind rotating them often. Where have you been going for alignment?

Appreciate the advice, if I recall the certs didn’t cost too much to add.

 

Not at all, well worth it for wheeling. I had DT price match Walmart on some hankook MT which knocked the price down $65 per tire. The savings basically paid for the certs and installation, it was great. Was like $1300 OTD for five tires with certs and mounted and balanced. Got them for $190 a pop.

 

This thing looks like a pre runner finally

 

What are these? 4 of them came with Camburg LT 3.5 kit. Mount for res?

 

yup weld on mounts than you use a hose clamp to secure the resi.

 

How are you liking that BD light bar? I had the gravity pro6 but sold it and am wanting something on the roof again for lights.

Me ole halogen procomps aint cutting it.

 

Idk, I haven't turned it on yet

Nah but all of BD's stuff is phenomenal. I had two XL80's in the old bumper and they lit EVERYTHING up. Now theres 8 of them on the roof, so I imagine it'll be great. I haven't had a subpar product of theirs yet. Ive had everything from their lasers, to their IR lights. Its all good.

 

I was looking at the steering a bit more today on my truck, and was originally going to reset everything to center on the steering rack.
With the steering wheel straight, there is (as accurate as I could measure with a tape) from the outer tip of the steering rack housing (like where a boot would wrap around) to the end of the machined face, where the inner tie rod bolts onto is about 1-15/16”. This is the same on both sides.
For this reason, I don’t think the rack and pinion itself, or any of the steering shaft splines are jumping teeth..

however, I did notice that when the steering was at full lock, the actual inner rack itself seemed to have a lot of rotational play. Does this look normal or excessive to you?
video of what I mean:
https://youtube.com/shorts/5GrhsWSHNOA?feature=share

in the video, I have a wrench on the inner tire rod, as I was tightening it to rack when I noticed this movement

 

Completely forgot to add this:
This is what my ATF looks like after about 4 months / 4000 miles… seems way too dark and dirty… I think the return line is leaking at the rack, and I can see slight moisture where the soft rubber line turns to a hard line on the crossmember.

sucking in dirt? Or burnt from a pump going out or something ?



New is the bright red stuff on the right/top.

 

Alright @snowsk8air2

The race against the clock is on. Got a laundry list of items to get done, but Im gonna do my best to make it up to cinders for the meet. But the truck is back and its time to grind out all the bullshit.

 

Sweeet. Went out yesterday for a little bit to shake down @Sixthelement truck and look at a few potential campsites.

 

Time to see what these Milestars can do. Rides better than the E-rated tires, gained another inch of ground clearance, and the drive train still feels happy on the 4.56 gears.

 

Tire carrier is now in!

 

Ran NRT and some trails in the area
About 100 mi
Howe ps pump is so nice
Getting a pretty good idea of how I need to trim
Won't need to trim the cab mount or firewall
Pics show my truck among other rigs with and without lt

 

Those of you with stock rear axles, what wheel spacers/wheel specs are you running to clear your shocks under articulation? Trying to make sure I clear everything with the 315s, currently on 1.25 “ spacers on -12/4.00 bsp wheels. Gotta beat up the pinch weld a little more but looking good for the most part.

 

My wheels are 17x9 -25
With the SpiderTrad 1.25 in the rear.

 

Not sure how many times you've had that apart but from the FSM, there's a tool to hold the ram. Hoping you didn't ruin it. I don't have a tool so I lodged a thin wrench on and extension to hold it when changing tie rods. With your rod extended all the way probably giving it any torque might seem more than normal. A little play was normal so I'd always snugged it up and closed the lock plate.


Your fluid probably smells like sweet toast. Any pump noises? Same pump as before? Did you flush anything prior?