3.4L supercharger

Yes, this is normal while the heater circuit is being warmed up. After engine start it typically takes about 15-20 seconds to cycle through this then it'll start displaying the AFRs. On occasion mine will not switch to displaying the AFRs. However, it is not consistent. Sometimes it'll work correct.

The newest kink is where it'll get stuck at a very low AFR reading like I mentioned a few posts back. After an engine restart, that was back to normal though. I suspect these two odd behaviors are linked in some way, just not certain how at this point.

 

Fuel trims have been 10-15 negative lately so I checked my FP gauge and it’s sitting around 80psi. I figure the only way that’s going to happen is if the return line is blocked somehow. Has anyone had this happen so I know where to start looking?

 

Probably a bad fuel regulator coming off the rail in the back

 

Off the top of my head I can't tell you what I'm teed off of. I thought there was one place on the back of the blower but to be honest I haven't thought about it in years.

As far as the faulty boost reading, it is indeed a transducer that takes the pressure and converts it into an electronic signal. I called Innovate tech and they said most likely the MAP sensor went bad and I can only assume it is due to excessive heat. I already ordered a new one so I'll swap them out and see if it works again.

Ah, okay I see what you're saying. That's strange.

I never look at my fuel trims anymore. Do you monitor them regularly or did you develop a symptom to point you in the direction to look at the fuel trims?

 

I keep mine up but don’t worry too much about them. It’s just a diagnosis tool.

But when it changed by a value of 8-10 points I looked into why that may be happening. That’s when I found that my fuel pressure was reading double what it should be.

 

I ordered a replacement MAP sensor for my PSB-1 the other day through Summit and ended up not needing it I've only had it for 3 days now. It was $95 after shipping and taxes. Just make sure you get the right one they have 2 listed on the website and neither of them say they work with the PSB-1. I can confirm the 15-0048 model is a correct fit for us


I was going to send the new one I didn't use back but if you need it I can send it your way instead if you want. Send me a PM if interested otherwise ill send it back to summit

 

So whats everyones engine running as supercharged for temperature?

If I push my truck into the wind on the highway it will hover around 199ish, in stopped hot middle of the day traffic ive seen it get to 203, dropping quickly with idle up, but pounding the truck up my mountain she is bouncing at 199 to 201. I feel this is too hot. Previous owner installed an electric fan and I have yanked that out and replaced it with an OEM fan, and Towing kit fan clutch, I feel the temp is much more consistent but I am still a little uneasy as its getting this high.

 

If you're maxing out at 201-205 you're a-ok. I get worried after cresting 210 but you wont even start to near doing damage until 225-230 or so.

 

Good to know, I feel better now, its hot as shit right now so I was a little wary of driving the truck because its been back on my mind. I will carry on.

 

You likely have a 190° t-stat installed. That is typical for oem/stock config.

For my SC I am running a 170° t-stat with the jiggle valve at the 6 o'clock position with OEM fan/shroud. It typically runs between 159° and 165° depending on conditions.

 

should I get the one that @1997tacomav6 has I believe from a corolla?

 

It will definitely bring down your running temps. Here is the 170° t-stat part number for ’98-’00 Corolla

$42 90916-03107 Toyota Genuine Parts - Thermostat (90916-03107)

90916-03107

 

I drove around all day hard and actually realized I’ve kinda been lugging the engine, I kept the RPMS higher and broke 201 once, I think it’s my paranoia more than anything. I do want to get a new radiator eventually cause I damaged some fins pulling the shitty electric fan out and when I do I’ll swap to the other thermostat

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the little jiggle dongle should be at 12 o clock, no? I was under the impression that was to allow air bubbles to escape.


I will be swapping to a 170 and koyo aluminum radiator this month on my N/a truck. Hoping to drop 10-15 degrees from 190-195

 

It's counterintuitive isn't it. I didn't believe it either until I tried it for myself. It's also well documented here on TW.

Setting the jiggle valve at 6 o'clock will net you ~10°F. So a standard 190° t-stat will run at 180°-185° instead of 190°-195°.

 

Wow, I never knew of the jiggle valve. Had put in a 180 I believe but OBD showed OEM temps. I really don't want to open stuff up again but now I really want to verify the jiggle valve... alignment.

 

Tick tock, tick tock

 

Got an email 3 days ago saying things were running behind schedule because of some adjustments that were needed in the mill process.
So I'm guessing another month at least or so,
Possibly 2 months at the most

 

Really interested to see how this goes.