Long Travel BS Thread

oop. I Hope I didn’t ruin it either…
I put some blue lock tight and didn’t crank on it too much. This is the 2nd time I’ve hade them off - but I bought the rack used from a member here.

I’ll have to double check the smell lol. Pump doesn’t sound bad, and there was brand new fluid in that system about 3 months ago. DEX VI ATF.

I forget if I mentioned in my last post, but I found a leak coming from where the return tube comes off the rack. I think it may be sucking in dirt or something. It’s a slow small drip that doesn’t spray or anything while engine is running or turning the wheel.

 

It's hard to tell. Basically replace the fluid and see if the leak is still causing you contamination problems. Depending on how much wheeling you did, the fluid should stay more on the transparent red side pretty much and not so blackish in 4k miles. If the rack was used maybe it's a good time to flush anyway. Or the expensive-r route, remove and replace everything to remove doubt but it's not that big of a system. Let me know if you need a second pair of eyes on it. I'm no guru but happy with the way my steering ended up

 

Wow you have a ton of room between your tire and rear shocks. AND on 35s? I’m jealous.
Although your backspace/offset might be slightly off but a 4.0BS looks more like -20 offset.
I’m running a 287/75/17 tire with 0 offset (4.75BS) and I’m a lot closer to my bypass. @81Trekker recommended me 1.25” spidertrax wheel spacers but I’m also going to look at a different wheel setup too just so I don’t have to run as big of a spacer.

 

Not long travel but got 12” triple on the rear. 315/75/16 (4.5 BS) and a 1.25 spacer. Clears all day.

 

I’m glad this came up, I’m in Cedar Park. Not due for a rebuild yet but will be in touch when I need one

 

Cool, thanks. I should be good then.

Yeah despite being a 315 they don’t seem much wider than my last set of tires. I don’t think these are as wide as 35x12.5” spec tires, despite 315 supposedly equaling 12.4” wide.

4.00 bsp is what SCS specs their 16x8 wheels at for the Ray10. Either way, I’m happy with the offset, seems to be a good balance with the 4” kit up front. That reminds me, Harry said I should get my shocks clocked, tubes are a little close for comfort with the mounts.

 

Sounds good man, whenever you’re ready just send me a message on here!

 

I will post a picture for you tomorrow morning.

 

@Supra4x4

 

the 3 laws of CQB. word

 

MitchMade from IG got his carrier bearing finished for 2wd and 4wd. Thought this was going to be a solution since the stock carrier wears out so fast, but it says you have to modify the drive shaft for it to work? Am I reading that right? Seems a little backwards to modify a problematic driveshaft for a carrier bearing that itself costs $300. Would it be smarter to fix the shaft instead?

https://www.mitchmadeinc.com/product-page/toyota-center-support-bearing

 

Only 2wd needs to be modified to add a slip yoke on the rearshaft. 4x4 already has it so you’re good to go. I have had one on my 2wd from his first batch and not a single issue

 

Ahh yes, I was wondering about that. Thought that’s what it had already. May try to pick one up before the cinders meet. If I can Mickey-mouse a u-joint press.

 

Amen.

 

Shit….I used a hammer and a socket to do my ujoint. But I just had them replaced when I had my drive shaft lengthened for my ford9 axle so they came apart easily.

 

When you guys are not killing it in the dunes or trails where do you have your shocks set, compression and rebound. The bypass shocks

I was told to run everything open on the road.

 

Hammer and a couple sockets is all you need, but if you have a vice it makes it a lot easier.

 

Same place as when in the dirt.

 

awesome thanks

 

Not worth the effort to adjust the bypasses for road/dirt use. If you have like the quick compression adjusters on the coil over than maybe you’d adjust that if you really wanted.