Any woodworkers?

Made some cabinet doors and just tried some of that basic-bitch white wash stain stuff. Its different I guess, will see how they look mounted.

 

Some eye candy

 

Do you guys prefer black or galvanized pipe for use with your 3/4" pipe clamps? Why do you prefer one over the other? I'm going to be buying several new clamps & pipe this weekend, and wanted to get some input. I'll most likely get 3' pipes since I rarely glue up anything over 2' - 2 1/2' wide.
Thanks!

 

I like galvanized, doesn't seem to stain certain woods. And they don't rust.

 

I was told by Pony some 30+ years ago to use black pipe for easier sliding...........they have not rusted and I do nothing special to them. I did rub them down with a rag when I first got them.

But not sure how science based that is. If zinc coated works, why not use it??

I never had issues with staining but I am no exotic wood guy, that does make sense.

 

Mine are black pipe, some came from leftovers from job sites, black is cheaper than galvanized. All mine are 1/2” pipe clamps.

 

My Dad used galvanized, back in the day. I used black pipe, and for the last 20 years, they haven't rusted.

I seem to recall Pony preferring black pipe, but I don't remember why.

Seems to me, either would be fine.

Woodpeckers now makes some clamp bridges, which can be very helpful when using pipe clamps - https://www.woodpeck.com/universal-clamp-bridge.html

 

Thanks for the quick replies. I have a few old pipe clamps, and they are black pipe. I typically lay a piece of painter's tape on the clamps to prevent staining. I could use 1/2" clamps just fine, but I like the 3/4" ones with the feet that are molded into them. I was looking to get the HF ones, by the way, for ~$12/each.

 

Painter's tape is always a good idea - protects the wood as well as the clamps from glue.

 

Wax paper is a handy woodworking friend

 

It sure keeps my workbench clean while doing glue-ups.

 

Scrape cardboard is nice for temp bench tops
Reduce,reuse, repurpose, recycle.

 

I have a roll of brown paper (forget what it's called) mounted to the underside of my assembly table. When needed, I can quickly and easily cover the table, to save it from paint, glue, epoxy, etc.

For way too many years, I used newspaper, laying out 1 piece at a time, taping them together, etc. The roll of paper is so much easier - don't know why I waited so long to do it...

Also, newspaper didn't last that long. The brown paper is quite durable. Much nicer to work on.

 

I used to build curved staircases, first ones used Titebond glue. I would have to calculate how much deflection would occur. Then one day remembered using West System Epoxy when I built boats. Talked to the boss, got some West System, laid that rail up, wrapped it in Saran Wrap. Worked way better than white glue, zero deflection. Never looked back.

 

You could go up to 1/2" stock for the doors for sure, and you could rabbet the top and bottom for your slide to drop into 1/4" grooves. At the end of the day it's hanging on the wall, not getting jumped on. With some square cuts, some good clue and clamps, it's gonna be rock solid and she's gonna love it. Go make some dust!

 

Another clamping question, if I may. When gluing up a panel, and using cauls, do you tighten up the main (pipe or parallel) clamps until you get a bead of glue showing at the joints, and then install/tighten the cauls, and add a little more pressure to the pipe or parallel clamps? Am I correct in that even after the cauls are tight, you can still add a bit of clamping force via the main clamps, yes?

 

Thank you!

 

Anyone ever make glue up panels with birch plywood scraps, with the "ply" edges showing? I have a bunch of purpleheart and birch plywood scraps and was thinking of gluing them up and making some "striped" panels that my son can use to make a keepsake box for his mom. I don't have enough purpleheart to make several panels, but I thought this might make a unique looking box, with the "striped" appearance. I shouldn't have a lot of voids in the birch plywood, but if I do, I can always fill them, as they should be small.

 

I have turned bowls using Baltic birch ply, mixed with things like walnut and maple and other hardwoods, it’s a cool effect if you use a Baltic birch or something with a solid core ply, if it’s put in the design correctly and done well come out looking like a pretty high-end detail. I wish I had a picture of the one that I made that I typically give them away before the I think about taking pictures. I do have a few blanks that are ready to turn, three and 4 inch size bowls that have Baltic birch as an accent.

I think the key is to think about the design and not overdo it just because you can. Depending on what it is that you’re building, relying on good design principles using contrast should pay off.