Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Im helping my close friend pull the coyote out of his mustang for the fourth time in 3 years. Granted, it's built to the moon and back, revs over 9600RPM, but still. Pretty annoying. This time, failed timing chain tensioner for the smaller intake cam timing chains. We're hoping not to see that the cams jumped timing, but who knows at this point.

 

That's usually a uncommon failure for this stock motor, different story for built motors. Anything can happen with that. Pay attention to the timing procedures, especially if you're missing with timing on Bank 2.

 

The first motor we built ourselves, cam bolts came out and the motor came untimed, kaboom

2nd motor we had built, using a gen 3 block with gen 2 heads, engine builder bored through that special coating that ford uses now, so it was pistons on raw aluminum. kaboom

3rd motor was overbored and sleeved to 5.2L, but now this tensioner failed. tick tick tick tick tick


The timing is all locked out, phasers are gone, just lockout plates for the huge LSA cams. Timing it is pretty interesting, it was timed for peak power at 8800RPM last time. Now its dialed back a bit, but just frustrating a tensioner is what is causing the issues now.

 

bro ! side gig..I'll take one

 

G-job!

Yes, put me on that list too. Ill be installing a front kit soon..

Currently waiting on word from Dave if im able to stuff a Fox 3.0 - 3 Tube upfront...

 

I don’t see why you can’t with the right tube layout. Pretty sure 3.0 3 tubes have been done already.

 

I feel the same way, just need to verify so I can get the ball rolling on the order.. currently 30 week turn around according to their website, the sooner the better!

 

This 5.0 Coyote Motor has some real Coyote Fur Coat going.. things I gotta deal with

 

gross

 

me...granted i don't have the jd kit i'm running dirt designs but i've got 3" 3 tubes. But i did have to move my lower mount point further back to make it clear the uca better and not have to put the top super far aft.

 

hey question for anyone who has actually assembled their 934's how much of the shaft is splined in your inner 934's at the furthest point? originally ordered some for a 4" kit and had the shaft fall out of the 934 and Harry sent me 1" longer shafts and they still are only splined in like 3/8" if i push the 934 cv in further.

 

@Pittsy
My customer got lucky and recieved a new OE Long Block instead of a ReMan, which is great because I was not locking forward in removing the Direct Injection Fuel Injectors..

 

Nice! DI injectors suck. Get the biggest slide hammer in the world and they still won’t come out easily

 

I’ve had some that came out with no tools other than your hands and some you swear are going to break off in the head. Seemingly no rhyme or reason.

 

There really isn't rhyme or reason. I did Bank 1 DI Injectors on a Black and White Explorer with only 20k miles on the OD a few weeks ago. #1 and 2 popped out like how a normal injector would..but, #3 held on for dear life and then some. And it had zero carbon built up on it, it's the built up and layered carbon that can make pulling em out difficult.

 

Yup. I’ve heard of many breaking in the process too. Haven’t had the misfortune and pray I never do. DI is a funny thing that isn’t fully perfected yet.

 

Speaking of fitting 35’s without trimming

on JD Pivots
Stock LCA’s in whatever the washers are set to
flares deleted
Is any trimming of the fender and besides needed or no?
To run skinny 35’s? Mid travel
On Method 17x8.5 4.75”

if yes, how much cutting? Start with 1” on both maybe?
Front fender is lower from factory so maybe more cut there like 2” front 1” rear?
Not sure if it’s better to score the fender first to bend back tabs (for liner) or just forget that, make the cut, maybe weld or install tabs later.

or go 35” and see if they rub them cut if needed? Hopefully any rub wouldn’t immediately destroy and make fenders FUBAR

there’s a lot of clearance on 33 at ride height so I would think it’s fine
But compression is a different story. When articulating off road the back tire goes in the fender looking like a slammed Civic if that side is on a rock

 

I think most of the guys here have trimmed above the body line on both front and rear fenders. Take a look at Airdog's build thread for some idea.

EDIT: Nevermind, he's running glass.

I think JD's silver truck was stock fenders. Here's the link to the sale page: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-infamous-super-charged-2010-jd-fabrication-tacoma.794965/

 

You didn’t mention what setup you have in the rear but…
JDf recently installed the SUA kit on my truck. I had them adjust the hanger/shackle for a higher ride height. I still have to trim my rear fenders to the max to achieve all the uptravel/compression without rubbing the factory bedside. This is on 285/75/17 with 0 offset wheels. I’ll be adding a wheel spacer to move the tire away from the bypass tubes (currently rubs on small articulation) but plan is to change to -10 offset wheels and small spacer. Looks like I still might contact the fender slightly after that. With 35s you might be rubbing even more in the rear.
I have a total chaos MT setup in the front so I can’t answer your whole question regarding the front end but I will be trimming the front fenders to match the rear just to keep it equal.

 

Can some folks post pics of your frame notch for the 934s?

We are putting them on another truck and don’t have the template/fill plates to reference. TIA!