TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

It is a possibility

 

I think its rear needle bearings. If I push down on them and spin with finger they feel gritty. I dont see any catastrophic damage so I feel good about it.

 

I’m pretty sure that’s what my 2.8 stealth pulley measured at.

 

Should rotors have some side to side movement in the front bearings when removed?

With rotor pack on the table i can move the rotors side to side and make them touch

 

theres more room if you like

 

So I watched a short vid of someone with an mp90 rotor pack on a bench showing side to side movement and the rotors touching each other. The vid was described as mp90 rotor noise. My rotors do this so I am certain my rotor pack bearings are bad. I already got a quote from a supercharger guru in MO by email for 1000$. This includes rotor pack rebuild and rotor coating, shipping and everything. I am 90% sure I am going to go this route and leave this to the experts, as rotor timing is crucial and obviously requires pressing everything apart, which I have 10 years of experience using a shop press so that doesnt scare me.

My question is, has anyone replaced rotor pack bearings themselves? At home or their job with a shop press?

 

I have not gone in that far, but have you watched the rebuild vids on Page 1?

 

Yep, he replaced every bearing except for the rotor pack bearings lol

 

No member has ever shown a complete full tear down of the TRD SC other than me that I know of on this thread. I posted all the pics on this thread awhile back.

There is supposed to be some slack in the rotors for engagement purposes for any blower. If it was completely tight that would cause more harm than good at full on engagement. It needs a little spring so to speak. If you mean rotor pack bearings as in the needle bearings in the back. Yes they are somewhat difficult to remove without damaging the soft aluminum casings.

Replacing the front and rear shaft bearings are not too bad if you have good hydraulic press experience. But it takes way more precision for anybody with the thinner shaved snout and smaller pulleys.

I would definitely recommend the four bearings replaced with new after 125k miles especially if your running smaller than a stock pulley. TRD alone stated 100k on stock pulley

 

Def prepared for a rebuild at this point with it all apart. Ive been pressing bearings in with a press for over 10 years at my job, but other than making some scribe marks on the timing gears/rotor snout, i see no other way to make sure they stay in time.

 

I have replaced my SC rotor pack bearings and seal. Just so you know it's a pita. You will damage part of the bearing lip when pressing the gears and rotors apart. If you're lucky only a small part of it will come off. If you're unlucky it could break a good chunk of it off. I think there is a special puller tool, but I did mine with a press. Damaged part of the lip where the bearing sits. It doesn't affect the function of the SC, but it was scary. If I find some photos I will post it here. One important thing is make sure you mark the depth of how far the gear gets pressed back into the rotor pack. A little play with the rotor is fine. It's suppose to do that. I would recommend only rebuilding it if it's leaking. Mine had a leak on the rotor pack seal. If it isn't leaking or loosing SC oil. I wouldn't replace it.

 

Haven’t seen anyone take apart the actual rotor assembly pictured below. Curious how long that will be good for. But I do know you can buy a new rotor assembly and certain companies will take the old one for a core discount. Good new is you can always replace the rotor pack assembly and that does affect the SC rebuild.


If that’s you’re only worry. Get a new rotor assembly and rebuild the 2 needles and 2 shaft bearings yourself. Personally after doing my rebuild I didn’t even think about a new rotor assembly at the time cause it looked great

 

Do you have pics of the replacement bearings? @Kennyluu611

 

Unfortunately, it looks like I didn't take any photo of the bearing reassembled and disassembled. If I find any I will update the post. I do have photos of the old seals and new seals. Let me find them and I'll post. Also, note that the seals for the rotor pack bearings are different. Make sure you mark down which side the rotor goes and also mark down which seal goes to which side. They are are different size.

these are the only photos I have of the seals taken out. The seals have a 1mm size difference on the outer diameter.

OLD

NEW

 

Thats the route i think im going to take, order new rotor pack, replace needle bearings myself and not have to worry about my supercharger getting lost or damaged in the mail.

https://youtu.be/2hS1fob4fKE

This vid shows exactly what im talking about as far as noise/bearing play. I've never heard this blower run with a belt, only spun by hand and it sounded terrible so I pulled it apart to inspect.

 

The only touch marks are at the needle bearing end of the rotors, as if the needle bearings are worn enough to allow that end to touch. When spun by hand the noise seemed to come from that end as well. It almost seems like front bearings arent designed to be serviced at all. If someone could look at the vid I posted and tell me if after they replaced those bearings if it still moved like that I would appreciate it

 

Been perusing some supercharger forums, namely a Jaguar forum, with people using the eaton m112 blowers. They were discussing rebuilding rotor packs and someone chimed in and said eaton does not want or expect you to rebuild them, only to replace entire rotor pack. Makes sense seeing as everyone ends of chipping or breaking some part of the housing when pressing them out. Apparently the bearings are captured by a little lip, and thats what breaks. Not going to attempt it. Easier to just pay the 1000$ and expect perfection than to destroy something and not have a useable core.

 

Any recommendations for supercharger installer around central coast California?
Or within reason north or south. No one wants to touch it in san luis obispo. At lease people id trust with it

 

Not many people would hear in SoCal either. Dealerships wouldn’t even officially recommend putting it on, in fact my local one said to sell it because they’ve seen motors grenade from superchargers falling apart LOL…

best bet may be a TW member offering help. If I were closer I’d help ya !

 

If you're ever in the SoCal area. You can hit up Knotical Ventures on instagram (https://www.instagram.com/knotical_ventures/?hl=en). Located in Santa Ana, CA. Reasonably priced and he's done many of these installs.