road trip maintenance - specifically brakes

I'm headed to Colorado for the first ~3 weeks of September. Leaving from Maine and expecting to rack up around 5000-5500 miles total round trip. Been going through the truck recently getting it ready - usual stuff including oil change, air filter & cabin filter, tires are new, alignment is scheduled next week, check other fluids, etc.

I'm pretty OCD about bigger maintenance items - every 30k all new gear oils, spark plugs, D&F power steering, D&F ATF, etc. so I should be all set on those.

My question specifically, considering we will be running up and down some of the big mountain passes out there, would you guys do all new brakes? This pic is the drivers side, original pads as far as I know. I try to use my parking brake a lot and keep the adjusters tight, so the rears are roughly the same state of wear.

These definitely still have life left in them, and Im running short on time to finish prep before the trip, but curious to see what yall think.

 

First, that caliper looks fantastic for the northeast. Second, I'd probably pad-slap it for the front and leave the rears alone. You'd probably be ok running as-is, especially if you're diligent about using a lower gear on the downhills, but a quick pad-slap on that would be quick and effective. The rotor looks to be in fantastic shape.

 

If you were a customer I'd bring it up. If it were my vehicle I'd leave it for now. There's more than 5k miles left there..

You'll be in mountainous terrain, I'd bleed the brake fluid out a bit and make sure the rear shoes are adjusted properly

But, that being said, looks like you've already got the wheels off. Put some pads in there

 

INSPECT PAD LINING THICKNESS

(a) Using a ruler, measure the pad lining thickness.

4X4 and Prerunner front pad thickness:
Standard - 11.5 mm (0.453 in.)
Minimum - 1.0 mm (0.039 in.)

Base 5 Lug pad thickness 2 wheel drive:
Standard - 12.0 mm (0.472 in.)
Minimum - 1.0 mm (0.039 in.)


My calibrated eyeball reads that you'll be just fine. You will notice a little brake fade if you're riding your brakes down the hill. Try the downhill decent control function which supplements your transmission to keep your wheels moving slow.

-J

 

I'd leave it, I like to get more use out of my parts before changing them. Especially if that means you'd be rushing to get parts and possibly taking time on this when it could be put to use better on something else. Then, I'd start gathering parts for this minor brake upgrade so you're ready for when your current pads are actually done. This upgrade was a pretty decent improvement on my truck so if it were me I'd be hesitant to spend money on any lower grade brake parts unless I was really in a bind.

 

Thanks. I do my best to keep everything up, but its an uphill battle here for sure

Yeah not a bad idea to bleed some fluid out of each corner. I did one of those DOT fluid test strips a few months ago. Results were great, but still its 12 year old factory fluid as far as I know.

 

Thats the mindset Im in. If Im doing brakes Im doing everything, including all the little misc hardware, check the calipers, clean and lube everything, etc. I dont like to half ass stuff, but dont really have the time for a full in-depth job at this point.

 

Id change the pads and the fluid. Pads are maybe $80? I think a pads and rotors are $200 shipped from RockAuto (I need to order myself here shortly)

Isnt everything that we prepare for, "Rather have and not need, than need and not have?"

I did my front brakes before I went to Montana and back. Found out I had a sticky caliper, so I had to replace that too.
How many miles do you have on your truck? @AR15xAR10 told me that the rears should be done around 120k. I ordered new rear drums and shoes, but havent done them yet. Maybe take the drums off and take a look/spray down with brake clean and apply some antisieze to the drum mounting area?
OEM drums and shoes ran me $400. OEM hardware kit is going to be another $60

Also, I think the maintenance light comes on at 5k. It annoyed me when i was in TN, and I still had 1k miles to get home. Maybe plan to do or get an oil change before the light comes on, on your way home?

 

I would bleed a whole bottle through. That way you know its all fresh, instead of partly

 

12 yrs old

Absolutely it should get a good bleed. Even though brake fluid has a high boiling point, it still "boils" slightly down at the calipers, especially during heavy braking situations. The fluid will get aerated with microscopic air bubbles resulting in a spongey pedal.

I'd bleed or flush a full liter of fluid thru it

 

I thought brake fluid had a 2-3 year lifespan..

 

That's the general rule..

 

Always do drums early. The longer you wait, the harder they are to tear apart and then it is harder to adjust the new ones

 

If you still need pads, get the Lexus Akebono pads.

Also, as BRO said, check your rear adjusters are clean and functional. If not, the fronts will do all the work...then rotors warp. I drive with a trailer in the Sierras. Trust me.

 

I’ve had to bleed my brakes enough times, i assume that none of the fluid from 2007 is still in there but i wouldnt be surprised if some residual is still there. I use motul brake fluid and its supposed to hold up pretty well

 

I havent opened my OEM toyota box from when I ordered it in the spring..

 

You are the problem David. Be a good example for others not a bad one

 

@scocar had new in box Kings sitting in his shed for like 4-5 years

 

Yup, starts to blink 4500 mi at comes on at 5k iirc. I just did an oil change last night. Ill just reset it along the way once it starts to blink, Im not too worried about that.

I usually end up tearing my drums apart like once a year for one reason or another (cleaning the mud out of them) and I try to use the parking brake regularly, so they should be all set. But Ill grab a bottle of DOT 3 on the way home and flush it through

 

Rotors are fine - forgot to mention in my 1st post drivers side is brand new Napa after the original warped on me last year. Pass side is original but not much of a lip on it. I should look up the spec just for shits n grins but at this point the pads are the most worn component in the system