LS6 Swap 2nd Gen Build + New Tundra

either missing a clip ? or the axle is too short, really the only two options …

 

Too much power.

 

Hardlines coming along. Gonna coordinate with the exhaust shop to drop it off there and have an exhaust made right after this

 

All 1.5" Aluminum, all welded up. Royal is gonna throw it in and mount it up today, and try to pop my CV back in and reboot it so I can drive home...

 

Well, figured out why the axle popped out. The steering angle went way past maximum. Wondering why?



for some reason, the bottom ball joint bolts backed out. Everything was torqued and witness marked, but now it’s gonna get a healthy dosing of red locktite. Repaired the axle and LBJ mount in the parking lot, but no way am I driving this thing 30 miles back home without those bolts being torqued down and an unclamped CV boot. LT axles are too expensive. So, I’ve been sitting on the side of the road for the last 3 hours waiting on AAA, in Arizona heat, with no AC and no water. It’s been a good time.
Shit happens with this kind of stuff, no one to blame. I’ve been thinking about safety wiring the LBJ bolts for both sides. Wouldn’t be all that hard.

 

I put a healthy dose of Loctite on those bolts for my kit. Couldn’t find the exact torque spec from camberg but when I took them off they were like 200ft-lbs+ so I used the floor jack handle and a breaker bar to put them back on. Mine are also slightly different. Grade 10 through bolts with unlock nuts.

 

Toyota calls for 118 lb ft, I torqued them to 125 and put a healthy dose of red locktite on them.

 

Boot fixed and cleaned. It’s clamped with a hose clamp for now. I’ll have it reclamped correctly here soon, but it’ll get me home and to the exhaust shop tomorrow.

LBJ Bolts are torqued to 125 and have a healthy dose of red loctite on them.

 

3:05 AM here, got the cooling system fully bled, and drove the truck home. Likes to live at 200, and at freeway speeds and loads it lives at 210. Super happy with it.

 

that is crazy, those bolts are typically pretty long and there is no rotational force on them that would cause them to back out …i have never seen that before !? Are you sure that the threads in the spindle didn’t get messed up as that backed out ?

Are you using the oe bolts or aftermarket ? is it possible you got the wrong tpi ?

 

Nope, all the bolts are OEM from Toyota. I think all the added vibration from the Uniballs and practically no poly anywhere on the truck and the crazy vibration from the LS caused it. Not sure how they got loose in the first place, but everything’s good now.

 

Well I was kinda expecting the pipes to be a lot closer together and hug the frame a lot more than they do, but they get the job done I suppose.

dropped the truck off just now to get an exhaust made for it. Due to the location of the coolant lines, there’s not a ton of room for anything under there. The plan is for a roundbody magnaflow muffler with turndown/kick out to the passenger side of the truck. 2.5” pipes from each header to a 3 inch collector and 3” pipe the rest of the way back. Gonna be dumped before the rear axle so travel isn’t limited.

idk if bummed is the right word, but I don’t know that I’m all that jazzed about the hard that were made. Maybe I’ll like them more if they’re painted black and I can’t see them.

the exhaust is going to be pretty close to one of the coolant lines in a spot or two, so I think I’m going to gold tape and cover them in head wrap to isolate them from heat and keep the truck from overheating that way.



Also, pinhole leak in one of the lines. It’s coming from where one of the couplers are, so I’m hoping tightening it will fix the issue, but alas, it’s an issue with brand new cooling lines.

 

Those bolts are red loctite from factory, always have to loctite them.

 

Yeah, I'm really tempted to safety wire them too.

 

Got the exhaust setup on the truck. I’ll take some better pics of it, but here’s some video:


https://youtube.com/shorts/v0Cy6p8w1ZA?feature=share

Just one big magnaflow and a y pipe. Dumps right before the rear axle.

really mellow tone and not too loud. Super happy with it.

Tackling the rear brakes tonight.

also, the truck starts to overheat under load on the freeways, probably because the exhaust is heating it up. So I looked up the specs on my current Speedway Motors LS swap radiator, and it’s 31” wide. Looked at a ron Davis radiator and it’s 36” wide. But that’s not what I was shocked by. The Ron Davis fan setup is 3836 CFM. The Speedway motors fan setup is 750 CFM….. I don’t think it was designed for a rear mount setup, instead it relys on air flow from moving forward and the fans for while it’s sitting still.

Tonight, I’m going to titanium wrap the exhaust, and cool tape the coolant tubing. That’ll help too.

Come Monday, I’ll order a ron Davis with the fans.

 

Who the FUCK didn’t tell me about the special tool needed to get the rear wheel bearings off. The pedders kit doesn’t mention it yet it’s very much required.


Amazon next day air’d.

mad……

 

OEM headlights and taillights. Love the look, but now the front grille doesn’t fit the vibe anymore. Anyone have some suggestions for what might look good there?

 

Why can't you just install one or two SPAL fans?

 

I think if you just wrap your hod and grill it will look much better. Just having the surround part of the grill color matched to the body like oe will look better imo

 

You can do it with a chunk of tube as well if you have a big enough press. I don't own that tool yet, but I probably should. Rear wheel bearings are pretty rare to go on a Tacoma.