roof rack - worth it?

Anyone familiar with the Grand Teton and the Crow's Nest from Sherpa? I am looking to replace my useless Yakima rack with an over the cab and camper shell system for general purpose/small amounts of lumber/ladders. Looks like the Sherpa stuff is a little wider (48 1/2") that will work better for 4' x 8' plywood, and better tie down slots for ratchet straps.

 

I found a used Grand Teton.
I also see one in LA on FB.

What about it?
Sherpa makes the best racks.

 

Just looking for someone who is familiar with them as far as quality, and could they be useful for light to medium duty lumber/ladder use? How are the tie down locations? The Sherpa stuff looks top notch.

 

they have strong double cross bars. The highest advertised load rating to my knowledge

first time I saw one was exactly that. Guy who got it to haul wood.

side plates are 1/4” instead of 3/16”
And is considered their beefier heavy duty rack compared to Prinsu or the thinner Sport they just came out with.

far as I can tell the tie downs are the stock handle holes, maybe more. They also sell accessory add on brackets for additional tie downs.

if you find the one in LA on FB, maybe the guy is open to break it down box it up and ship at extra cost that will still be much cheaper than new.

every pretender and their mom got Prinsu because that’s what they saw on Instagram without asking if it’s actually the best and is the only rack they know of.
Which uses sealant that can crack instead of rubber pads like Sherpa

I’ve seen other decent looking racks. Whatever Tacomaholic has looks beefy maybe 1/4” as well but not as long.
I looked at SDHQ rack and don’t really like the look of it personally. And that’s part of the equation on something like this: if it looks good.

as opposed to say, Hooke Road, which is very thin and ugly.
Been there done that tried it sold it.

 

I had one before a 3K mile trip years ago, I took it off at a gas station and posted it on Facebook at the time on the Tacoma group “free if you want it”, threw it all in the trash at the pump

couldn’t stand the wind noise from the front cap, or when the bars were extended
(Oem)

 

coming from a victory 4x4 rack to a sherpa, the sherpa rack is the beefiest no question about it.

 

Great info. Def sold on the Sherpa, I need a better rack than the wimpy Yakima bars I got. Those things are worthless. Total waste of money.

 

Yes buy a roof rack they come in handy.

 

Since you put it that way, nothing can stop me from purchasing one now!

 

I opted for the AL Offroad rack with the lightbar cutout. I didn't have a lightbar for a while and didn't notice any crazy wind noise or MPG losses. As soon as I installed the Baja Designs 7 XL Linkable bar, that's when the wind noise was introduced at highway speeds (but no noticeable MPG losses) but I fully expected noise before installing.

 

I use mine on my topper a lot. Haven’t used my cab one yet. Both prinsu. Found them used on here.

 

I had a rack for a long time and found that I never used it.

 

a setup like this would be cool.

Sherpa Grand Teton
-center: 2 or 4 maxtrax on mount, pins, locked
-outsides, Harbor Freight apache 9800 tan (less hot than black) if they go on sale
including drill holes, adjust cross bars, insert rod to measure how long bolt should be for t-slot nut. And use rubber-lined washer for bolt, for moveability vs silicone cracking
-left side, some sort of awning
-right side, a dual shovel and axe holder. Doesn't seem to be any that bolt on. Would rather drlll a mount than a rack; may need to. 2 bolts mount to crossbar and hope the door can open, no floppy/rattles, etc.
may require longer bolts, spacers, or bracket to relocate slightly higher

 

Hey guys first post.

I have the Thule Squarebar on my leer 122, and am thinking about getting the Hooke-road rack for the cab.

it looks like 100w renogy solar panels will fit perfectly on the hook road rack.

 

I've got a 100w renogy on my shell and it's not enough watts. Should be at least 200w. And companies make one for hood.

solar panel gives a bit more modularity than a stickon bendy one.
You can run the Hooke if you want. But be advised they're not very good and you may end up later wanting to take it back off.

idk what your whole plan is for cab vs. shell
but if you do get a 100w panel, judging by that pic: you could simply mount a flexible one to the roof itself. There's DIY's on it

 

^I mean honestly 2 100w can likely fit on any rack. Maybe even crossbars or crappy OEM rack.
200w may fit on flat surfaces using flexible panel(s)
Hooke Road is what, $340?
Seen various used high quality racks sell in the range of $300-$700
Totally your call.

Flexible is cheaper. If it's $130 and wears out after 3yr, big deal. Again, your call.
My flexible has an airgap by common mod of putting corrugated board sandwiched in between with air passageways. And that requires moving when the truck is not always driving.

I don't see why you need a solar panel and second battery for interior LED's.
I have added lights. They run off the truck.

Last time I used solar and aux battery was living in my truck powering various things like running a fridge 24/7, charging devices, etc. which is typically what that is for.

 

renogy 100w panels are down to $75 now.

I'll probably get a small fridge down the road

 

Been eyeing the Hooke Road rack. Looks like exactly what I want. Anyone have experience with those? A rattling rack would def. sour my Taco experience.

 

I just put the upTOP Overland Bravo Rack on mine a month ago.
Currently, it has the normal wind fairing and nothing mounted on the rack.
I haven't notice any wind noise up to 80mpg on the freeway.

I will be installing the fairing with the 40" light cutout soon and putting a hard case (with recovery gear), 100w Renogy Solar panel, and my 2 traction boards on there.
The reason I got the rack, I plan to take my bed rack off next spring and summer for outdoor sports and activities and I need my bed space to transport.

Time will tell if I get wind noise when I put the light and cut out fairing on with the lightbar.