Home Improvement Today?

If you want something purpose-built, while not dirt cheap, I have had good experiences with gladiator gearwall and their stuff is definitely built to match my usage patterns.

https://www.gladiatorgarageworks.com/collections/overhead-storage/Overhead-GearLoft™-Storage

 

Those are nice but too wide. I'm doing 34" wide by 32 feet long.

 

My original idea was to cut a 1.5" slot in the 4x4 to fit the upper beam in it. Finally I was going to run a bolt through the side. I think you're right about the 4x4 being overkill

 

Plumbers!!

Anyone good at drawing up connections to an easily accessible 4" main? I've done plenty of simple plumbing like PEx and PVC drain runs but never a connection to a main. If I post pics can someone help out? I need to connect a toilet flange to the main about 2 foot below in the basement and bathroom sink and shower drain run. Thanks!

 

Post pics.

 

we're going for a steampunk modern retro feel

 

Do you also live in a clock?

 

Do any of y’all have experience with manual J calc software? My brother in law and I are shopping around for software to run Manual J, Manual D, and possibly Manual S calcs.
I’ve been looking at the ones that are “ACCA approved” but wasn’t sure which one to go with since we haven’t been hands on with any of them.

 

And bigass warshers.

 

I like this idea. $2.50 for a 36" rod of 1/4" that is rated for 900lbs

 

Google "vertical sammys 3/8". 2400 lb rating. 3/8 isn't really needed for the weight you plan to hold but it doesn't mover as much as 1/4".

 

If I understand correctly,

When I did mine I did a 2x4 flat flush with the ceiling with several lag screws and washers. Ran vertical 2x4's down from there and then built out the bottom and rest of the shelving. Connected to another 2x4 screwed into the studs of the wall. I can post pics, but won't be until the end of the month. I'm up in the mountains and at the lake.

 

edit:

really old picture, but you get the idea...

 

Lots of progress! I made a big paper advertisement for Lowe's using the side of my building:


Then I hung my first door that went surprisingly well. I decided against running windows along the sides of the building so that I have more wall space. This means the door(s) needed windows.


Then I installed my 2 windows in the rear gable -- it was nice to look at something other than OSB or raw wood for a change:


Next I started on a solo siding install. That was a major pain in the butt and I ended up phoning a friend after I did this entire side. The panels were deceivingly awkward to hang at the right height. I used CA glue and a block of wood adhered to the concrete as my helping hand. That only worked so well. After a full bottle of glue I was over it.






With the siding on I was able to work with the electricians to get my 100A sub panel installed. It went really well; the conduit was oversized for the cable, so the 175' run was actually done by hand without a tugger or anything special.




With the service in and the siding on, it was time for what my dad calls "fluff and buff" -- which is essentially the finish work to make all of your corner cutting look intentional. I tracked-sawed the siding to a better height in some areas (the corner caps just looked better that way), installed all of my trim on the corners, the 1x2's along the edges, and finally the garage opening.






Today I met with the garage door guy and we ordered-up a nice 18x7 garage door that will get installed in 2 weeks to fully dry-in the shop!

What's left:

• Finish drain in the back of the building -- I installed my downspouts yesterday but just need to dig the drain
• Install exterior lighting
• Scrape-down bubbled old paint
• Caulk (oh so much caulk)
• Paint

Current mood:

 

Your helper looks all tired out!

 

K, will do later tonight or tomorrow. This bathroom renovation stuff take up my time. lol

 

Started cutting & prepping our 8x8 fir posts and 6x12 fir beams for our timber covered deck section Monday

Cartolomew made an appearance



Flew the first section in today

Post to beam connection is a bridle joint with concealed 5/8" x 18" lag connectors

Posts sit on custom knife plates we cast into the foundation

 

I can't even imagine what those beams cost. My dumb ass would cut it 1/4" too short and I'd have to rent a really big board stretcher to fix the mistake.

 

Timbers were about $10K CDN IIRC , but that also is for the section for the front entry we haven't done yet and 4x8 timber rafters for the section we flew in today

I still worry about cutting something short , like basically every cut , every time lol