Wisconsin Tacomas and bad financial advice

I thought there was some slight variation from Mobil 1, even though it is made by them.

 

Needs those pointy thingys on the front to, ya know, keep the kangaroos and wallabies at bay. Can some one post an example with that AI picture program you all played with?

 

There is variation, it's the label.....

 

This sounds like a job for @Pixeltim

Lol.

No, I thought some people had analyzed it and there was a slight difference in the additives. But, I can't seem to find anything about it, So maybe I'm just imagining things.

Incidentally, this same topic is being debated... sigh... AGAIN, on 4runners.com.

 

Maybe, but I know our literature does not differentiate between the two so I guess maybe it's "good enough" lol

What's funny is the 1 GR 4Runners originally said 5,000... And at some point they switched to 10,000... Without any mechanical upgrades. Makes you wonder...

 

Did it change in 2010, when the 4Runner got the dual VVTI version, and also switched to 0W-20?

 

telling someone to not do something, only encourages it

like if we say pat would never put on 40s, he'll have them next week

 

That is a great looking setup. I'm very curious about how those lights work out for you. Well done sir.

Good lord it's Friday and we're talking about oil changes, sheesh. Everyone should listen to @CygnusX191 though, I have the Blackstone reports to prove (at least on a 4.0) that going more than 7500 is a bad idea. Even Amsoil breaks down with enough miles and time. 5k 6months is my typical interval and it's smart to stick with that.

Pat don't put on 40's.

 

pretty sure the million mile guy did them at 10k

 

a guy I went to high school with ran his for like 30k miles... that caused some issues lol

 

I think they all switched when they went to 0w-20 synthetic

 

I'm still going to stick with the philosophy that it depends on your driving conditions. I believe a few folks have done Blackstone analysis at 10,000 miles and the oil was well within spec.

Although, I would imagine the majority of the people in this thread probably qualify for the " severe conditions" or whatever the term is in the manual that would necessitate a 5000 mile interval. I believe one of those conditions is driving with a car topper, so even having a cap on your Tacoma would dictate a 5000 mile interval for your situation.

 

Curse my stupid camper shell making me do shorter oil change intervals!

 

Lol! I think you probably have a few other reason now.

I do 5K on the 4Runner for obvious reasons.

I wouldn't tell anyone not to do 5K changes, as it's certainly not going to hurt anything.

 

I'm lazy. Don't drive that much (although this year is an exception.) Dreaming of an LS swap (and... 40's?) I change it twice a year. Fall into spring interval is 6 months and maybe 3-4k miles. Summer runs 6-8k miles. Amsoil Signature. OEM filter. My risk seems legit.

 

Just the time spent on our adventures could be considered severe.



This is after just one weekend with you guys.

 

I thought I read somewhere that Toyota oil is manufactured by Exxon Mobil, but that it is it’s own receipe . Heck, even mobil 1 comes in a million different flavors.

Apparently the Toyota oil is chock-full of moly and other goodness that the usual Mobil1 formulations don’t have. I slyly opened the cap a little bit on a bottle at the local dealer, and squeezed some air out of it…and it smelled delicious!!! I put it back on the shelf when the parts guy told me it was 17 bucks a quart. Very well, Mobil 1 it is lol.

So at tigerton @WiscoPat and I were chatting about our…I mean, his long term plans for Bessie. He mentioned getting some sort of solid axle reinforcement kit. I told him to carefully think about that decision, that itmight not be necessary, better places to spend that money blah blah blah.

Perhaps I should have been more direct. Pat, don’t get reinforced axles.

 

A cheaper alternative is to de-bead the tire, and then follow that with an accelerant assisted re-bead. The flame-front usually does a good enough job of chemically neutralizing any of the old air. It also does a great job at tempering the air that gets sucked in. I think @Supr4Lo demonstrated how to do that on an old post in this thread.

 

My recent adventures in wiring on my truck convinced me that I needed a serious upgrade to my shitty old combo wire stripper/crimper, so, in the spirit of this thread I used up some Amazon credit to add these to my uncontrollably growing arsenal in the toolbox. Guess I'll need to buy something to try them on and make sure they work, right?

 

Having the right tools makes it far less painful. Plus having an assortment of connectors, heat shrink, zip ties, wire shielding, scraps of wire can save an hour project from turning into a week.