What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

And leave an oil slick a mile long lol

 

Did you open up the pack and get the grease inside the nylon pucks on the end of the each leaf? That's where the grease is going to be beneficial

 

yes, that is where I mainly tried to put it. didnt separate the pack, just used a pry bar.

 

That's the way to do it, I should have worded it differently but that's what I was picturing in my head when I said it. Hope that helps the noise.

 

Haha so much grease!!

Ok. New rack bushings but... as with every project I fuck something up.

What's the thread width on this bolt? I know it's 1.5 pitch but don't know if it's m14 or ? My tap set isn't big enough and I may need to buy a tap.
90080-10126
(Rack mount bolt)
Jacked it up trying to install the 333 bracket. I may have bent my other oem one.


Got some new super pro bushings
But this bracket is tight as all hell with these and with my old (and destroyed energy suspensions)

 

On the subject of grease and squeaking I just had to drop the rear subframe of my 03 Lexus IS300 because of broken bushings. I chose to go with the Figs super pro bushings. I bring this up because my only concern was squeaking. I learned that if you wrap the bushings in PTFE tape they won't collect dirt or dry out. Wonder if this would work for leaf springs?

 

If you find those bushings don't last long, you should try the Total chaos ones next. I've found them to last a lot longer than the ES ones.

 

Whiteline also makes the rack bushings. So far they've been good for me.

 

Good to know
Good to know. I've got whiteline lower bushings (they were very stiff compared to my OEM ones on before) but now they've grown on me. Eventually going to do solo lowers (they come with bushings yeah?)
Either way, thanks for the info.
I had Super pro on my last truck and never had issues. Wish i check them before i got rid of it (scrapped)

Have either of you installed the 333 Bracket?
Their instructions say to not lube the bracket at all, but that thing is the whole reason i cross threaded the top. She is SUPER TIGHT! I'm sure it would be the same with or without lube.

Y'all got any Tips/tricks?

Should have a tap and die show up today to try and fix the threading. :fingers crossed: i didn't jack it up too badly.

 

I ran the whiteline LCA bushings before going to the Solo arms. I would agree.
Yes the solo arms come with bushings, but I've had mixed results with bushing lifetime with the solo arms. Most people don't have issues with them though so I think it's something isolated to my setup.
I haven't installed that bracket so can't comment on that. I wouldn't use grease on that spot because you don't want any excessive movement there. That's the point of the bracket is to keep it more planted.

I would try a big deadblow hammer to get it on there as long as it doesn't tear up the bushing in the process

 

Felt like Christmas today opening up the box TVS1320 new supercharger

 

Sell me your old one….

 

Took care of some items that have been on my mind/list for a while. First up was to clean up the battery cable routing so I could more easily access the under-hood fuse block.

Before:


After:
Relocated the in-cab inverter circuit breaker, rigged up a support for the Alt-to-Bat fuse block, and just adjusted how the wires were routed.


Next up was to replace the tailgate handle - I discovered it was a mess from previous owner(s). One mounting bolt was corroded and had spun out the brass insert, none of the plastic rod clips were intact - no wonder it was always a mess to open.

Old on left:


My A/C switch has been broken from day 1, the button would "fly out" if I wasn't paying attention when switching off. No pics, but nice to finally take care of that.

Finally, added an AC outlet in the camper - the main in line has been there since initially wiring from solar battery in cab to camper distribution panel. I modified the surface mount box to fit in the center of the forward camper area.




I added an insulated "backup" bracket just in case the double-sided, 3M tape fails for some reason. Both main line and the outlet are wired with marine triplex cable.

 

Curious to see dyno numbers side by side and see if the improvements live up to the advertising.

 

Took it for an early morning dump run and then picked up some raised bed mix near the transfer station at the worm farm. Takes about 1/2 cubic yard to level out the Dakar leaf springs.

I also tried to restore my OEM headlights and reinstalled those. I missed the original look.

 

Greased the driveshaft zerk fittings yesterday and fixed my ground connection for the amp so now my seat sits flat again. While I was doing that another 1st gen owner pulled over to compliment the build. Chatted for awhile even tho he didn’t know a lick of English (Hispanic) we managed to understand each other enough lol.
Might start looking for a vacuum leak too. Getting higher rpms recently on cold starts. All my hoses are brand spankin’ new so I’m a little perplexed.

 

Oil change today on my 95 3.4L. I know people say it's a PITA to get the filter off, but here's what I use: 1/2" drive strap wrench and 12" wobble extension through fender opening. Works pretty well.

 

Deleted the LSPV and installed a willwood proportioning valve.

tried to reuse the factory lines, but the flaring tool I got wasn't heavy duty enough to grip onto the steel lines. Had to grab some copper line from the auto parts store. Reused the factory fittings though for the connections into the MC and tee.

It brakes about the same as before, but I had the lever all the way up with the LSPV so I guess I shouldn't expect a big difference since that should be the equivalent as no braking bias.

 

Just started conversion from a supercharged setup to a tarbo. choo choo!