Any woodworkers?

Not wanting to buy wood working tools, anyone here able to hook it up with some wood I can use as a small table top?

Will pay of course, just need a rectangular piece about 12" x 7" (and...1" thick?).

Something clean I can stain and polish up myself.

Thinking of going with a wood top for a throttle stand I want to make, and these are the legs I drew up and will be using -



Just ordered some aluminum rods to use as 'spacers' to add to the whole industrial look.

Bottom slots will fit into a base I'll have to draw up and cut out. Top bend will be used to mount the wood top to the legs.

 

You looking for a true 1" or 3/4" ok? What type wood.

 

I don't know and I don't know

Just something that will be sturdy, so a hardwood?

The throttle controller weighs 11lbs so it's pretty hefty.

Bottom base will be metal to keep it from being so top-heavy.

 

...i can prob hook you up. I got some stuff outside, i have walnut, hickory, ash.

So you just need a flat piece, sanded and ready to stain?

 

Yep!

I can do it myself but would hate to buy wood working tools for a one time use

Preferably 2 of the same?

Would be awesome to make another stand for my stick.

Here's the throttle and stick -

 

So the second one same size will work?

 

Yep!

Just so they look aesthetically pleasing to the eye when not in use.

 

I'll pm you some pics tomorrow of what i have.

 

You'd probably be better at choosing as I'm unaware of different hardwoods and softwoods.

Here's my last wood project to go with a metal project; all done over 2 years ago -











I know this is the wood working section but I'm a fabricator not a carpenter

 

@wilcam47

Quickly made the second stand legs already

 

What size can you cut out on there?

 

Well, that will be 12 gauge.

The cut outs are to shed off some weight, and being 12 gauge it still retains rigidity.

For motor-specific parts I cut 1/4", for shock or armor parts I use 3/16", for signs normally 16 gauge, and other misc stuff between 10 to 12 gauge.

But as to how thick, assuming steel, up to 7/8" thick.

 

Hmm, i have a sign i need my house number, ill have measure height of old one but maybe work a trade?

 

That works.

I made one for a friend of mine last year when he bought a new house, and another friend just recently bought a house that's wanting a sign as well.

 

Does the wife know what you spent on that?

 

Oil vs water based stain; what do you prefer and why?

I'm getting ready to refinish one of my late Dad's Gerstner oak tool chests. I don't want any of the blotchiness that can sometimes happen when staining wood. I'm planning on using a pre-stain conditioner, but it says it needs to be stained within 30 minutes to be effective. This is the finish I was going to use: https://generalfinishes.com/wood-fi...-stains-and-dye-stains/water-based-wood-stain and here's the pre-stain conditioner: https://generalfinishes.com/wood-fi...-dye-stains/water-based-pre-stain-conditioner.

Here's the tool chest I'm working on. I'm making it into a jewelry box for my wife. I'm replacing the felt on the drawer bottom and cleaning up the hardware a bit. I don't want to make it look new again, but I want to put a new finish on it. I've stripped the old finish off for the most part, but the nicks and other wear marks remain (on purpose). It's about 60-70 years old, so I'm preserving the "old" as much as I can while making it nice and clean for her to put her fine jewelry in. For reference, I took the knobs off the drawers when this pic was taken. Also, there's a cover that folds into the space below the drawers, that when closed, it covers the drawers to prevent them from being opened while moving the chest. You can see it in the lower right of the pic. These genuine Gerstner chests, especially of this vintage, are pieces of art.

 

Wait til she sees the Virpil CM3 I ordered 2 weeks ago; the Warthog is just to hold me over

 

@Mad German
I've been using water based products more and more. Easy clean up, no odor, not flammable, and dries really quick.
The downside is water based is more expensive.
I have applied water based polyurethane over an oil based stain as long as it is completely dry, but that's a gamble. For the most part I try not to mix the 2.
Another thing I really like about water based poly is it is crystal clear and it dries really fast. You can get 3 or 4 coats on in a day easy.

 

I like the idea of crystal clear poly. I also like multiple coats/day. I guess I'm "old school" in that my Dad always used oil based stains, so that's what I started using when I got into the hobby. I'm guessing if he were still here, he'd want to use the latest & greatest stuff too. Thanks!

 

@Mad German
Personally I wouldn't restain it. It has a nice aged finish to it as is. I would give it a light sand, remove the latches and metal corners and apply 1 or 2 coats of clear finish or just wax it. Also find a area not to be seen to test your finish on. Good luck and post some pics when finished.
Have a look here as well https://www.targetcoatings.com/