Long Travel BS Thread

Maybe if I left now when I get back the divorce papers would be ready for me to sign… can we be roommates since I’ll be single? Lol. I’m shooting for next years event!!!

Mike @MadTaco461 just picked dates for 14th Annual Superstition Meet!!! Jan 19-21
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-to-jan-21-2024.460736/page-234#post-29082709


Wifey said I can come play trucks!!!

 

Ahh that’s too close to koh for me to try and make that one. I do think we’ll be out at the hammers like a week or so after thanksgiving for testing/ fun hangout trip. I’ll make sure to post up dates for that once we know.

 

I got a long camping trip with fam for week of thanksgiving, so it’s a no go for me. This work and family thing keeps getting the way of truck fun!

What about KOS… King of Superstition

 

Yeah it won’t be week of thanksgiving. We are usually camping for that as well. We’ll be in hammertown probably a week or two after.

And is kos a thing?

 

What brand extended brake lines did some of u guys use for the front end? Is 4" enough?

 

If you search steel braided brake lines, the name you’re gonna see show up everywhere is crown performance. 4” is fine for front.

 

Sorry ahead of time, not LT, but no one in the regular suspension section seems to do anything beyond rebuilding their shocks. I'm trying to revalve my Sway-A-Way race runner 2.5 fronts for a bit more control since my truck is heavier than stock and tends to blow through my travel a bit fast. Can anyone tell me if I'm on the right path here or just chasing my tail? My thought process was to stiffen up progressively as shaft speed increases but I also added a flutter to keep lower speed reasonable. I contacted SAW and the technician just recommended a blanket .015 stack for compression but that seemed a bit generic. I dunno, I'm new to this. I didn't know what a change on rebound would really do since it has bleed screws too so any recommendations there would be nice too.

Truck is 4400lbs roughly with me in it roughly 50/50 dist, dunno what other information would be helpful. Front coilover springs are 650lbs.

 

Looks like you're on the right path. I would support only making one change at a time so you can identify if you've made forward progress or not. How much bleed is currently in the shock?

The original stack is definitely too light. a straight stack of .015 would be a step in the right direction but you may not like the stiffness in the smaller chatter. That's why flutters are so popular.

 

Thanks for chiming in! By one change at a time do you mean single shim or like changing to the stack I suggested without the flutter? I didn't really understand what the SAW rep meant, but my piston currently has two of three bleed holes blocked with screws. He said "PISTON 2-bleed screws 200psi" when he detailed how the shocks came from the factory.

 

No, I mean change the compression stack but not adjust the rebound at all. The piston will have pre-drilled holes to adjust for bleed. Typically in the .098” arena but it varies per manufacturer. If two of three are blocked with set screws, you only have one open bleed but you’ll know when you’re in there.

200psi is the factory nitrogen charge.

 

Hit up @anthony_loera on Instagram ( @Anthony250 ) on here - he's gone through a lot of SAW's and a lot of coilovers on 1st gen taco's / 3rd gen t4r's

 

I'm the oldest young person, I don't have Instagram... I will hope he comes along on TW though @Anthony250

 

Copy that, I don't have a great idea what a change in bleed screws accounts for "feel wise" but I'll just change the compression right now and go from there.

 

It is now

 

Bleed is typically associated with low speed control and chatter. You can't have too much though or you'll blow through travel and not ramp up on the bigger, hard hits.

 

I'd probably open up another bleed hole if it were me

 

Either another bleed or decrease that .015 flutter shim to something thinner. I've been experimenting with the latter as bleed is bi-directional. A flutter is not.

 

Maybe that was a flaw in my thinking then, I figured without direct support on the back side, a flutter shim would give too easily so I upped it a bit. Would a .012 be a better choice?

 

There's going to be a little trial and error. There's multiple ways to achieve similar results. I would probably go with a .012 on the flutter if you've only got one bleed open but I'm kind of a stickler for ride quality in small chatter.

 

Okay, well that's an easy change to make, the stock shim in that position is a .012 already

I understand opening another bleed would soften up both sides, what's the reason for doing that vs just valving lighter in general... or are the bleeds only effective at slower shaft speeds?

I'm the same when it comes to ride quality, I hate the chatter and these shocks have always chattered which is annoying to say the least.