TORSPD: NEVR

Will do, thanks for your help!

 

New goodie.

 

That’s going to be a great addition to your shop!! Very nice

 

To be able to do a whole 4 port flange has me most excited. The smaller Ryobi, I had to keep moving the flange back and forth because of it overhanging the end.

 

QUALITY!!

 

Hmmm… Doesn’t look like a $199.99 Harbor Freight machine!
Tools start adding up and some really start adding up. I’ve been trying to talk my better half into moving into a one bedroom w/ den, 2.5 bathroom with a large kitchen for her awesome cooking and a large 3 to 4 car plus garage new casa but they are hard to find on a retirement budget.

 

A house with a garage like that would be super worthy. Might have to expand the radius of your search though.

 

Moving forward from this time quote, I was able to wrap up welding the long cross-over today. Just as the tank was running out of Argon. Phew!

Fully welded the inside of the inlet, from the driver side header.



Then welded the two bolt hole ends.






Flange looks just right.



This is the final product. Low gas, and heat were pressuring me to work quickly.



The header had a crack. Cleaned it up and fixed that too. Although I didn't get a before photo.



Onto the BRZ build, after a short break to recover.

 

Ace race flanges?

 

Yes. Except for one v-band quick disconnect clamp. Due to a failed t-bolt. The regular nut galled up, and froze. Had to cut that one off, then use an old Reid Washbon clamp. Got fortunate there.

 

@Torspd when I first provided all of my parts for assembly I gave them the LC engineering arp head stud sheet that said torque to 80 ft-lbs. after a few months passed I couldn’t remember if I gave the paper to them plus I also had a few other specific requests for the final assembly so I downloaded the instructions again from LC engineering which now say 85 ft-lbs and sent that over. This would not be a concern but there was some confusion and heads were still torqued to 80. Any idea why LC changed this? Will 80 be fine or do I need to tear back into it and re-torque.

 

I have learned over my multiple builds, to re-torque after the first torque sequence. I usually wait multiple hours between the two times. Since yours has been sitting so long, yours is good for a re-torque.

It'll be some effort, but easier out of the engine bay than in.

Side note* back in the day when I was doing mine, they always stated 75 ft‐lbs.

 

Thank you! So I have the engine in the truck now . My plan is to get the transmission in today.
When I installed the AC compressor I tried spinning the pulley center by hand and found it to be hard to turn but managed a few rotations but then got to a point where I could no longer turn by hand. I can’t imagine this is right? I wanted to see if you could please check yours to confirm.

 

Throw that question out to the larger community. Maybe the TRD s/c thread. I won't be around mine for a few days.

 

Will do

 

Hopping back into the BRZ build.

The drive line angles are GTG. Driveshaft is torqued down. Which then meant back to the engine bay to test fit the alternator and ICT Billet adapter. Well, I learned of two issues. The spacing didn't match the belt alignment for the Corvette accessories, and the alternator could not bolt up. A quick call ICT Billet, and merely the spacers needed to be trimmed down. I do like dealing with ICT Billet very much.

We also contacted them for the part number for the proper alternator. No photo yet, but it is installed and in. Perfect fitment.







With the new one in place, I can route the large gauge alternator wire around the block to the starter.

I'll get some photos this evening.

 

Some massaging with a die grinder was needed to add some clearance between the valve cover and banjo bolt of the clutch cylinder. Got about an 1/8" of wiggles room now.





At this point, the lower half of the dash has been pulled out to allow access for the Wiring Specialties harness to be routed through. It feels a whole heck of a lot closer to start-up now.

I've run into a few issues with the plugs on the harness matching the plugs on the accessories. Which is not their fault. They've been helping me with those hiccups. Their harness is top notch.

The A/C compressor part number was supplied by SIKKY. The kit swap manufacturer. Well that plug is different from the Corvetter A/C compressor plug. Not a big deal. A simple re-pin or splice and done.





Then the last plug to overcome is the alternator.

If I read the tag properly, this should be the plug for the alternator. Waiting to hear back from Wiring Specialties about that.





Once those are sorted, then I can route the harness out, and bolt down the grounds. Then it'll be a heck of a lot closer to fluids and start-up. It's getting close now!

 

I'm sure Mike will love to do some pulls once done

 

Probably go through a rear set of tires in a week. Lol

 

not if he uses the special valve stem caps.