Need an engine - 2.7L 3rz

Thanks - I will let you know. I'm hoping I get the head back quickly so I don't forget too much - lol

 

Yeah we love that game......'what's this plug'.......

 

Ugh. Heard back from the machine shop today......cylinder head is cracked. They can get a new head - 5 yr unlimited mile warranty - for $849 plus tax and shipping. OEM gaskets from toyota are $321 for the kit that includes head gasket, valve cover gasket, intake, exhaust, etc. So I think at minimum that makes it a $1500 repair......

What do yall think? I'm so bummed, was really hoping the head would check out ok......

 

Seems like that's still gonna be your best bet (aside from maybe shopping around for a cheaper head). You cannot get a replacement 3rz for $1500 or a replacement truck for that amount. So if $1500 gets you a few hundred thousand more miles out of this truck, (with the piece of mind of that 5-year warranty) I'd say it's kinda a no-brainer, even if that bill stings a bit right now. Good luck with whatever decision you go with!

 

To get the engine work done at the machine shop mine was around $600. So as long as your block is ok then it’s still not a bad deal to just buy a new one. I almost bought a new head instead of getting the valve job done on the old head.

 

Don’t have much choice. Id buy the new head and drive the hell out of it. Good luck!

 

Don't whine, you're going to basically end up with a new engine...
new valves, guides, cams, ect...

wash and wear after that, just have to change the oil....and clean the maf......


(82) How Does a Toyota Engine with 300,000 Miles Look Like On The Inside? - YouTube

 

Not sure what part of “being bummed the head was cracked” sounds like I’m whining…..

Using that logic, I suppose I should have crossed my fingers that the engine seized up on the highway and my son ended up in a ditch. Then he could have a whole new truck….not just a new engine, correct?

Im new to the Toyota forum (my son bought the truck only a few yrs ago). Most of my posts and forum time are spent in an old Jeep CJ forum. In that forum, people are generally are all there to offer helpful insight and share ideas that are useful. Whining is not even part of the lexicon.

I really do appreciate (most) responses. The new head is ordered, and hopefully we will be putting it back together next weekend. Will keep y’all updated.

 

Yeah you actually took that all wrong, there are many here that will be jealous of you.

Many of theirs is in the end days in the block and heads....and are also reviewing their options...

Everytime someone chimes in on a success story....it gives the most current info on what's available out there....


The head gasket thing and the rusty frames........is like stories....from the war.......
and the war goes on.



So yes...continue your posts......I love a good movie with a good ending....
did not mean to be mean if you know what I mean......

 

Sorry - I misunderstood. No worries. Cylinder head is ordered......I don't think itll get here by the weekend....so I'm probably looking at reassembling it next weekend. In the meantime, I'm cleaning everything and gathering the parts. I sure is easy to get at what's left under the hood.....so I'm using the time to go though everything. I'm thinking fuel pump, and belts since theyre cheap......and new coolant temp sensor (the one that's on the back of the engine sandwiched between the firewall) just because it's so hard to access. Anything else that is a "must do" while I have everything torn apart?

 

Finally! Picked up the new head today - it took almost 3 weeks once I ordered it.....which seemed like forever. Will keep yall updated and send some pics. Probably need some help too. I'm crossing my fingers I still remember how mostly to put this thing back together! It sure would have been easier the very next weekend. I can hardly remember what I had for breakfast this morn....lol

 

I took mine apart first of January and just put it back together in July haha. It was interesting. The machine shop took 6 months to get it back to me

 

So far so good. New head is in and valve cover is installed. Still need to bolt on the manifolds - I'm around step #17 in the FSM.

Pretty straightforward (up to this point anyway).

I opted to replace fuel filter, the 2 coolant temp sensors, and the thermostat. I'm waiting on the rear coolant sensor (arriving tomorrow) before I can put the rear cylinder head cover and hose on. That one seems impossible to reach, and I figured now would be the time to replace. Snapped a bolt installing the valve cover - it's odd to me there are no torque specs listed in the FSM or Haynes manual. I think it says something like "tight, but not too tight". Huh?

Anyway, I'll update soon, hopefully. It's definitely taking longer to put it back together than tearing it apart. With limited time during the week, I hope to finish it up next weekend. Couple of pics below.....will keep yall posted.

 

You can reach that rear coolant sensor with a 19mm socket and an longer extension coming from the top side. You can do it with the valve cover on.

 

She's alive! Thanks for all the help along the way. Got her put back together last night. I was a little concerned at the amount of (white) smoke on the first startup - I was worried that the block may be cracked or I goofed up something during re-assembly. But.....I let it run up to normal operating temp......drained the oil.....put fresh oil.....topped off coolant......and I think I'm good. Oil looks much better after the first oil change and I'm not loosing any coolant. Engine temp is normal. No more white smoke. I plan to run 100 miles or so and do another oil change, maybe flush the coolant again for good measure. All in all, a success I think. I'll probably still be crossing my fingers for the next few weeks. The total ended up being right at $1,500:

$850 - new head
$150 - machine shop
$300 - OEM gasket kit
$200 - Fuel filter, coolant sensors, belts, oil, coolant, o-rings, etc

Thanks again for the help, couldn't have done it without the good advice I got here on the forum. Couple of pics and video link below. Cheers!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9s9wH_8miY

 

Congrads......your own newest local hero....

......how does it feel to beat it....




Guess its a little late now but this is what I broke my heads in with....
used until I got 4k on em...

Valvoline VR1 Racing 10W-30 Conventional Motor Oil 1 QT - Walmart.com




Has to do with the high zinc.....for flat tappet engines...allows to cams to seat and break-in correctly... .supposedly.....

 

Thanks O silver! I have a redline product that I added to the oil - I forget the name of it......but I used it on my old CJ7 when I was doing engine work on it. I'll bet it's similar stuff....I know it has zinc in it. I was planning to add it to the first several oil changes - is that what you would recommend?

Also - I appreciate your help and encouragement on this journey. I've also enjoyed reading some of your other threads / advice. Seems like you help a lot of folks on this forum - that's awesome. Take care, Chris

 

My oil changes were at 25mi, 125mi, 500mi, 500mi.....
and then a few at 1500's after that.....

but that was with a reman block tooooo.....