Coastal Offroad Talky Time

Thanks, that's what I was thinking, but it was dark and tough to follow the lines.

Edit:
I just found it seems like it's the power steering cooler. Part number: 44402-04030
I already ordered a radiator for a trans cooler. I am thinking it's a bit overkill now. Maybe I will order a smaller one and upgrade both.

I got this reply from Coastal Offroad, they are pretty good with their email replies:

For that cooler, we recommend re-mounting it higher up, behind the grill. You can re-use the stock cooler and just replace the soft lines with longer lines. This can be done using generic cooler lines from an auto parts store. You want to use 3/8" ID lines. Or, you can also take it as an opportunity to install a larger cooler such as the one I have attached below.

 

Anybody have pictures of their high clearance rear bumper with license plate lights and trailer wire harness? I'm having trouble thinking of a way to mount some lights for the license plate that won't just get ripped off. As much as I like the fact that the rear face of the bumper is angled, it seems like anything mounted to that back is just begging to get peeled off on a rock. With coastal having a sale right now I'm 99% ready to pull the trigger on it, just trying to figure out the details.

 

I have their low profile bumper kit in aluminum, and their Swingout tire carrier kit that I'm hoping to get welded soon. One thing I noticed is that even though I selected the aluminum option for the bumper, the Swingout does not get that option and is still steel.

Is there a viable option for welding the two kits together? I've sent coastal an email as well as emailed the welder who will be doing the work for me. But I'm a little bummed I didn't notice this until now.

 

Give them a call if they don't reply fast. They usually replied to my emails within 24 hours. To my knowledge, you can't weld together aluminum with steel. You might be able to bolt them together, but I'd think the bumper may deform from the weight... Is it a single swing or dual?

 

Welding aluminum and steel isn't an option ......... will have to be a bolted joint. I have seen such appendages in aluminum - but only in Australia where it is a much more common building material.

 

Yea, I emailed them later in the day yesterday so I'm thinking they'll have time to get back to me today.

It's a single Swingout so really the only connection point is that one flange that needs to be welded to the bumper that the joint mounts to. Maybe they provided an aluminum flange as that should be the only piece that needs to be welded to the bumper. The rest of the Swingout just bolts into the joint I believe.

 

Read the instructions. Should be in there. May say 'optional swing out, weld this here'.

 

All I see in the instructions is "lightly tack weld S6 to your bumper" followed by "finish welding the hinge bracket (S6) to bumper to finalize it's position". S6 is the hinge bracket that the arm attaches to.

Neither set of instructions (bumper and Swingout) reference aluminum anywhere. I think if they supply the S6 part in aluminum it would solve the issue. I'm hoping I'll get an email today once they open.

 

Does the bumper instruction mention anything at all?

 

Nothing specific to aluminum. It just mentions there are gussets to weld into the bumper if you plan on using the optional Swingout.

 

Cool, at least it mentions beefing it up. That was one of my biggest concerns with a swingout on aluminum. Yeah if they send you an aluminum bracket, it might be okay. Not sure if you could sandwich the steel one inside the bumper for more even clamping or not.

 

yep, they got back to me this afternoon. They should have swapped the steel C bracket for some aluminum tabs in the kit. The aluminum tabs weld to the bumper and that's where the hing will then bolt up to. I don't think I opened my Swingout box when it arrived. I opened the main box just to pull the instructions so I could provide them to welders for review.

 

FYI, if you have Coastal's skid set, add some gussets to the areas that have none. Mine bent up pretty bad in those areas. Still protected the truck just fine though. I was mostly able to unbend them with a 4x4 laid across the front skid and drove onto it, though the edges are still pretty dented. Gonna reinforce them when I got time, I think I still have some plate leftover from my slider build.
I spent 3 days wheeling some pretty awesome trails out in Windrock Park, TN during the Appalachian Trail Ride event.

 

Its been a minute but I been viewing this thread off and on while my truck was being repaired from an accident. I almost ordered CO's basic bumper after reading some reviews and seeing some customer photos but after a new set of tires and wheels another $825 wasnt an option, so I just bought the material locally and half assed a similar design...which still has some refining to do ‍ If I was to do this again I would save on the welding and grinding and bend the main front part. Mine is 1/4 inch and the rest is 3/16. For those who want to do this themselves, the easiest way to mock it up is by removing the grill and starting with your main front piece. Tack the top to the front and utilize the holes in the grill support to hold it in place. I didnt have as much material as I thought so mine doesnt wrap all the way around. Not sure how they recomed to do it but after roughing out the entire bumper I put some beads on the backside as well.

At this point im undecided on running a winch but I might add some recessed lights or cut some vents in the skid plate portion...anyone have a recommendation yay or nay on the vent holes

Also...for those thats gonna tackle one of these or make it from scratch like this, the right size welder is a plus. My little old Hobart did the job but the money I saved doing it myself will go towards upgrading to something a little bigger






The new 285 75/16's didnt rub before but after losing the stock front bumper they have lots of room. There was some slight rubbing at first but only when turning while backing up and only the bottom portion of the fender flare on the cab side had to be trimmed. If anyone is in IN and needs a good set of 265's on rims with all the sensors still intact ill be selling my old ones soon.

 

100% weld the inside. That's where all the strength is. You grind most of the weld from the exterior for looks. Looks pretty good!

 

what parts specifically did yours bend at? I haven't bent mine yet but I also try not to belly out when at all possible.

 

It was unavoidable on the trails we were on. The section starting on the back of the front skid right where the gussets stop folded upwards. The edge of that area more so. I was able to bend most of it back good enough. The mid skid also bent a little at the front piece where there are no gussets just back from the crossmember. I'll post pics if I remember to.

 

Gotcha, I was wondering why they didnt carry the gussets all the way to the back but how it tied into the cross member under the trans made sense but that is definitely a weak spot if laying all the weight on that one spot.

 

You can see the worst hit was on the left of that. I couldn't get that to press out no matter how many times I repositioned the truck. I even stacked two 4x4s to get the truck up higher to maybe put more weight on it, but didn't help. I need to get something that can hold the whole front end up on it to have enough weight probably. If I had a press this would be easy...