NO START /ONLY CRANKING OVER WITH A PREVIOUS BELT CHANGE DONE/POSSIBLE BAD FUEL PUMP?

i THOUGHT IT MIGHT BE TIME TO START A DIFFERENT THREAD ON MY ISSUES. I STARTED OFF BY DOING A TIMING BELT CHANGE. AFTER THE REPLACEMENT, I DROVE THE TRUCK FOR ABOUT A WEEK AND ALL WAS WELL. HERE IS MY THREAD ON THAT:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...e-cam-sprocket-question.809861/#post-29067089


THEN I STARTED HAVING "LOSS OF POWER ISSUES WHILE ACCELERATING. I GOT HOME LAST FRIDAY AND MY SCANNER POPPED THE CODES P0171 system too lean (bank 1)... and also P0450.... EVAP EMMISSION. SO I FOUND THIS THREAD ON THE CODES:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ata-when-diagnosing-dtc.810861/#post-29094462

SO WITH DIS-CONNECTING THE HIGH PRESSURE FUEL LINE ,CRANKING IT OVER AND GETTING NO FUEL. I PULLED THE TANK LAST NIGHT AND TODAY WHEN I GET HOME I WILL REMOVE THE FUEL PUMP, INSPECT IT AND HOOK IT UP TO +/- BATTERY AND SEE IF IT WORKS. THE FUSES RELATED UNDER THE HOOD AND INSIDE THE CABIN SEEMED TO BE GOOD. I STILL HAVENT FOUND ANYTHING UNDER THE HOOD THAT I MAY HAVE MESSED UP WHILE DOING THE BELT CHANGE OUT. IS THERE ANYTHING I MISSED IN THE TROUBLESHOOTING PROCESS? THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR THE HELP.

 

Pretty sure you’re need a crank signal before the pump turns on.
That said, if it was running after the timing be.t change it probably isn’t the crank sensor.
But it’s worth making sure it’s plugged in.

Easy way to tell is if the tach moves while cranking the engine.
If you don’t have a tach, use your scan tool to look at RPM while cranking.

Other than that, I’d have to look at some diagrams and see if we can monitor powers to the pump.

You’re on the right track, I’d start with the pump.
But there may be an easier way to “confirm” the pump before you actually pull the pump.

 

Timing can be checked when you had it all apart by removing the spark plug out of cyl1, I believe? and turn it around by hand. Stick a long screwdriver or tube down the plug hole. At TDC the cyl will be up and you'll be able to slide the screwdriver in.
O2 sensor errors can also be caused by broke wires, a leak in the exhaust somewhere, usually by it and a bad cat.

 

i did notice while cranking I got NO response from the tach... no jumping/bouncing ...... i will double check that plug and see if its connected. Thanks very much!

 

first thing i did when it wouldnt start the next day was to see if my new belt somehow broke or slipped off. but yea, when i was lining up the crank and cam sprockets and after making sure all the marks/notches were lined up i still stuck my magnetic retriever tool (2ft long) down into #1 cyl to make sure it was @ TDC . seems like the wires at the plug on the O2 @ pipe are good, i guess i can follow the wires up the wiring harness into the engine bay to see if all is well. i'll also check for exhaust leaks too. thank you.

 

No problem. It's been awhile but I feel your pain.

 

What year is your truck?

 

Sorry man
I feel you

I think/guess(from experience with my fuckups)to re check work on T belt
Make sure at TDC
all T dots/slots perfect on all pulleys
Tensioner good

took me 5 freakin times to align everything
(This on DOHC Subaru so 5 pulleys 9 separate marks/dots )
Then cam seals leaked
All work had to be re-done + seals
Needless to say
1st time I did….3 nights
After the 7th T belt re-do……I can complete in 3hrs(not counting coolant drain/fill/burb)

double/triple check work
Your symptoms are similar to timing being off a tooth or so IMO

hell hoping the FP!!!!

 

That is the 1st 3 times^^^
Still pissed about spending $200 on oe seals
That was 3yrs ago
Still have nightmares

 

its a 2003 and i checked that crank sensor plug... it is connected

 

Once i get that fuel pump out of the tank (after work today/this weekend) and trouble shoot it and if it is "good"... i may just have to do that .....remove the timing cover and check all of the alignments.... awful weird tho, considering it ran fine for a week. the first time i changed it , it went really smooth. Little history: I bought the truck in '09 @ 103,000 mile and a semi-blown head gasket... the gasket material between the water port and #5 cyl. just started to go. had white smoke and the owner immediately shut the engine down and put it up for sale on craigslist that day.... i bought it that night for $4,500.00. since i was in there i replaced the belt and W.P. Now at 245,000 the belt broke. I know i'm gonna get my arse chewed for this considering the belt replacement is @ approx. 90K(lol)

 

The pump should come on with a crank signal.
I see no reason to pull the timing cover.
There is a C/Open relay under the dash that controls the fuel pump once the ECM grounds the relay.
I’d start by jumping power to the pump (from the relay) and cracking a fuel line open to see if I have fuel delivery.

I’ll see if I can get you the actual diagrams later tonight.

 

"The pump should come on with a crank signal."....... so since i have no movement on my tach when cranking, did i understand correctly that my crank sensor may be bad? or could it be since my scanner popped for a P0171 that the pump is bad and therefore i would get no action from the tach? LOL....confusing... oh, well what ever this problem is i hope once i test the pump i'll be able to get the cause pin pointed.


"There is a C/Open relay under the dash that controls the fuel pump once the ECM grounds the relay."......ok, thank you... i knew there should be a relay but wasnt quite sure where it was.

"I’d start by jumping power to the pump (from the relay) and cracking a fuel line open to see if I have fuel delivery"...... ah, shucks,,, already have the tank dropped.... so i'll just pull out the pump and hook it up to +/- from the battery.. at least i can also change out the sock filter while i'm in there. Side note: last year ,i pulled the sending unit out of my '73 toyota Corona to see how the condition was and to replace the sock in that(was just doing preventive maint. i had no issues). the sending unit was in brand new condition as well as the inside of the tank.... there was no sock attached to the suction pipe tube like my old manual said there was suppose to be. there was only an inline filter between the pump and carb.


"I’ll see if I can get you the actual diagrams later tonight."..... thanks in advance for sending that later

 

A failing fuel pump can cause lean codes.
Your situation is a bit odd. You don’t have Tach movement.
But you also have a a lean code.

If you have a scanner, you could look at live data and see if you show RPM when cranking.

I am curious as to how @Dm93 would diagnose this.
He does this stuff all the time. I tend to go the long way about diagnosing things.
He usually knows all the short cuts.

 

MY SCANNER IS A HARBOR FRIEGHT SPECIAL, I BOUGHT IT ABOUT 5 YRS AGO,. THEY BRANDED IT AS "GOOD" I THINK ($45) ALL I HAVE DONE WAS JUST READ THE CODES, I DIDNT NOTICE THAT I COULD READ "LIVE DATA' ALTHOUGH ONE SCREEN THAT I CAN GO TO DOES PROVIDE SOME INFO, I DONT REALLY KNOW HOW TO UNDERSTAND IT I GUESS, IT JUST CAME WITH A SMALL 3 PAGE ,FOLD OUT PAMPLET OF HOW TO HOOK IT UP, READ CODES,DTC AND ERASE. I CAN LOOK AT IT MORE AND LET YOU KNOW WHAT MODEL I HAVE AS I AM NOT AWARE OF WHAT ELSE I CAN DO WITH IT. I ALSO WASNT AWARE THAT I COULD CRANK IT OVER OR START THE ENGINE WHILE I HAVE IT PLUG IN. IT JUST SAYS TURN THE KEY TO "ON" ("DONT START"). ONCE I DO THAT THEN IT STARTS TO LOAD THE PROGRAM AND WILL THEN SHOW THE CODES

 

Check your inbox.
I sent over some info on the Engine / Fuel Control.
If any thing, it should help you get the correct wires you are after to test the pump

 

Yeah. Let me know what model it is.
Most all scanner can read live data. Even the cheap one.
They are just hard to navigate.

 

For a crank no start typically my first step is check for codes, specifically ones that could cause a no start (neither the P0171 or the P0456 would have anything to do with a no start although the lean code could have been a sign of the fuel pump being on it's way out).
If I don't have any related codes then I'll typically look at data and see if I have RPM while cranking, if I do then I'll usually give it a shot of carb clean and see if it tries to run on that.
If it does then I go after fuel (injector pulse and fuel pressure), if it doesn't then I check ignition components.
If I have no RPM then I'm scoping cam and crank signals and comparing to known good signals.

 

ok, its the ZURICH ZR4

 

Looks like it only reads codes.