No start condition, warm engine

Lately I’ve been having this issue where I put the key into the ignition and I get a no start (edit: no starter or engine response, as if ignition is on only) when pressing the clutch and turning the key.


It is usually remedied by removing the key and restarting again.

Most noticeable trying when the engine is warm.
Don’t think I’ve ever had a cold start with this issue actually. Starts nice and strong cold with a smooth idle.

Today was the most annoying occurrence when filling up gas.

72 degrees. Outside.

After driving 3 miles Won’t start when filling/pumping gas from 1/3 to full.
I did put 87 in after filling 92 last time.
Started two times before to drive. First about 1/2 mile. Second around 3 miles. No start after second drive and then pumping gas.
Sorry for posting on 1st gen forum ahead of time..

 

When the issue occurs what exactly is happening:

1) You turn the key and the starter cranks engine over normally but does it not start
or
2) You turn the key and the starter does nothing - silence

 

X2 ^

"No start starter after second drive"

^What exactly does this mean?

PS. The octane is irrelevant.

 

When turning key, no response. It does not crank or start, as if the turn key ignition was only turned on without starting the truck. Happens randomly when it’s warm after driving a few miles. It just so happens that I started and ran it twice this time for it to happen.

 

#2 of that sir! So no response. Remedied each time by removing the key and trying again.
I don’t think this is a key fob issue. The key fob only reaches like 25 feet for manual key to lock and unlock the truck.

 

Apologize. I was a little tired when posting this after switching my friends struts on his 16’.

 

I've never had this issue with my Tacoma, but I would think it's one of two problems;
1) Key fob - with my work vehicle, if I try and start with the valet key, nothing happens. Put the chip key in, starts right up. Not saying your using the wrong key, just an example.
2) Clutch safety switch - could be an issue with this, maybe not always engaging.

Hopefully someone else can chime in with better info, I'm just guessing. I hope you get the issue resolved soon.

Also, you can always take it back to the dealership, you still have your warranty, let them diagnose/fix.

 

When I bought my truck the dealer gave me a free key fob in case the one I had died. Very nice. I already have a back up. I’ll use that one from now on and see if the problem happens again. I’ll check the fuses that control the clutch switch and key ignition/starter. There’s like 3-4 I think under the dash?

The dealer that I go to is good and will most likely try to diagnose it. That’s a last resort thing for me though without something simple. Sometimes I use the clutch start cancel to start it if I’m not in the drivers seat, like when opening the door to let it run for a minute as I do the usual walk around. Not sure if using that would mess something up.
Battery terminals are tight also, I just took them off for some speaker installs.

 

Next time it happens try pushing the clutch cancel switch, try it again and see what happens.

 

Another occurrence today after filling up gas. No start on the first try with a warm engine. Same exact driving scenario. Take the key out a second time and restarted successfully. Wonder if it’s purge valve sticking.

 

Not to be a semantics geek however many people don't read all the thread before posting, good information helps troubleshooting.

Referring to your previous posts the issue here was stated as the starter motor doesn't crank the engine - silence when the key is turned.
Example: Battery disconnected

This is an entirely different issue than the starter motor cranking the engine normally but it not starting.
Example: Out of fuel


The starting system (especially on older vehicles) is a simple chain:

Battery - clutch switch - key switch - solenoid - starter motor.

Modern vehicles obviously have more electronic "stuff" included but the basic chain should be the same.
I don't see how a purge valve would prevent the truck from cranking normally.

I also believe (not sure) that if the key security chip is not recognized with a manual transmission the vehicle will crank but not start, hopefully one of the tech folks can clarify that for us.

Did you try pushing the clutch cancel switch and trying to crank it again before you removed the key?

 

Yeah the starter cranks but then stops after 1-2 audible clicks even when I hold the key past ignition.

 

That's not gonna be the purge valve then.
Bad purge valve will crank until the engine starts or the battery goes dead..

 

Any chance this could be a battery starting to go south?

 

Only if its got gas

 

I wonder. I do have some audio equipment installed, but nothing too much. Only addition is a kicker 500 watt amp. But it’s usually turned down.

 

I assume, I presume we all assume, you have gas in the truck..

 

It just seems funny to me that it happened after filling up with gas. So it led me to believe something to the EVAP.

 

I hear you, but the starter would still be turning over.