Interior removal advice / sound deadening

I want to sound deaden my Tacoma.

I was wondering if you guys could leave some resources for how to get under the floor, the back panel and the roof. Access cab seems to have less online videos and guides.

And if you have sound deadened, how that has gone for you. Anything I should do while I have it apart?

 

Me personally, doors and back panel were where the majority of sound came from, and that's what I did. Floors and roof are for the sound perfectionists.
Just doing doors and rear, it's a huge improvement.


My only advice is to invest in a good set of plastic pry tools and to have a box of spare clips on hand before you tear into it. Most of it is fairly intuitive on how to pull the panel.

 

Really the only reason I think of doing floors is because of the down firing sub in the back, do you think it will change anything or nah?

 

For speaker performance, no. For reducing road vibes, it will a little. Doubling up the heavy butyl behind the door woofers is where it really counts (and then rectangles across the rest of the door to knock down reverb, and of course closed cell to kill noise). It gives them some extra mass to push off of. Subs should have their own enclosure, so the heavy mat isn't as critical for it to thump.

 

I have an 09 access cab and I removed the rear seats sound deadened the whole back panel and the front doors. It made a difference to me I’m not running a sub just focal 6x9 and the oem roof speakers but I think it was worth it. I bought an aluminum back Molle panel to go over the sound deadening from a forum member it was a perfect fit.

 

06 access cab, did the doors and back panel. but the biggest improvement was making using a single sided foam adhesive to stop the storage lids under the jumper streets from rattling

 

read the repair manual

only two things I haven't figured out about this job is
1. how to clean inside the door
2. dealing with, or potentially replacing, the clear plastic trash bag and butyl crap "barrier" they put inside the door panel from stock, with sticky goo

dirt naturally makes it's way inside the door where sound deadening goes on, and prevents adhesion
no amount of wet wipes can successfully clean it
doors are also made to handle draining water
so I think the route to take, is wet the inside of the door, spray soap, brush and agitate, rinse out, let dry, so it's clean. Then for final job, either a quick wipe, or wipe with adhesion promoter

 

1.the butyl rubber will stick to practically anything. i've done several cars and just wipe it with a dry rag first, then hit it with the roller after it's stuck on.

2. just peel it back but don't remove it fully, it'll restick just fine.

 

that may be the mistake I made, did not use a roller

I believe they sell new Butyl. I might even have a roll of it, I think 3M.
That'd probably look better than old.
I've heard the stock clear plastic is called "moisture barrier" as the part name,
would be great to replace with new so it's not all beat looking
I'm guessing they also sell cheaper, universal material of that, to tack on, trace/draw, and cut to shape

 

I used brake clean and alcohol wipes but the butyl sticks really good. I cut some of the old oem plastic when I put the new speakers in the doors and then used a roller on all the butyl pieces I put in it helps to seal it better and it compresses it down.

 

Do the whole truck saving the headliner for last as it has least amount of deadening affect if chosen no to do it. Deadening The floor reduces road noise the most. A small wallpaper roller also helps with applying the mat. Butyl sticks off of pressure so the harder it is applied the better it holds. Don’t over think cleaning the doors. Remove the vapor barrier at the butyl seam with a razor. It will re-stick right back to itself. Remove the door speaker. You’ll be able to get the whole door with the speaker out. At least use a damp towel to clean then some alcohol. The cleaner the metal the better the adhesion. Lots of incorrect method online. Butyl material should be slightly overlapping itself or butted up to another piece. Pieces here and there are a waste of time. I’ve got over 30 hours of deadening time just in my Tacoma. If you’re doing the floor plan on the whole day.

 

The front seats have 4 bolts each and one plug. Easy

The center console has to come out. Lift up the bottom of the compartment, and there are some screws. Once that is out, you will see more screws

The plastic edge by all the doors pops out with snaps. Try not to break the tabs. The back seat has some bolts under it.

Not a hard job to remove the carpet. Just takes some time.

Label the screws in bags, if you aren't used to doing a job like this.

You should be able to do this, it's not hard. Just give yourself a full day.

I could get it out in less than an hour if I was in a hurry, but I do this all the time.

 

I used closed cell foam sound deadening sheet and butyl tape to replace the clear plastic on the doors when I did mine - put the foil backed butyl chunks on the outside skin to dampen vibration, sealed all the openings with aforementioned foam/buty, skipped the rubber layer because it's supposed to dangle as freely as possible but would have been pinned by the door interior panel. Fine results without it.

When I had to go back in to reattach the window tabs, I tore off the foam, took a plastic razor blade to remove as much of the butyl as possible, and re-did it. Everything stuck back fine.

 

I haven't seen anyone specifically call it out, but I spent a lot of time deadening above the transmission. My 2nd gen was an automatic, so I had to cut small strips, but I went pretty liberal with it and it made a huge difference with engine noise. And then I'd say the front doors and rear panel make the biggest difference.

I never ended up doing the roof, and Tacoma people always noticed how quiet it was. I'm not convinced the roof is necessary unless you live where it always rains, or if you already had the liner down.

 

I did the rear wall, doors and floors on my double cab. Rear wall I did a layer of 3M sound deadening material from Napa then a layer or two of Frost King duct insulation from Home Depot. Floors got 2 layers of Frost King. Doors got some pieces of 3M sound deadening stuff on the outer skin then Frost King on the openings of the inner door. All that did a good job. I then put some foam tape on along the edge of the door which greatly reduced the wind noise!

*IMO* the best sound deadening mod for the money was using some pipe insulation between the cab and the bed. For about $5 and a few minutes it does a great job!

I think I have a few posts in this thread that talks more about what I did to my last truck...

 

honestly foam sounds nicer than what it came with.
This is what Audi has used


I bet Mercedes and BMW have used similar

usually held on in a better way too

 

The very first thing I did when I bought my '07 AC in late 2011 was gutting it and adding a two part sound deadening sysytem from B Quite. https://www.b-quiet.com/?utm_agid=1...oNjX0oSqaQa7gzFzfpg66zbej4ih4glYaAulmEALw_wcB

Coming from a lineage of Chevy S-10's and then Dodge Dakota's the road noise and overall ride sound quality of the Tacoma was shocking. Don't get me wrong I really enjoy my Tacoma, but I couldn't take it. Being my first Tacoma I didn't know squat about removing anything from the interior but I watched videos on how to remove the door panels by watching videos on installing speakers. From there it searching for video by video on each part or panel, or lean as I went.

To date, this by far is the best mod I've done. Instead of sounding like a tin can, the doors and roof thud when knocked on. IMO, it not only helps with sound, but also helps with inside temperature control too.

Sorry no pictures of the process.

 

Reading through all the posts here and in other similar threads leaves me with a question or two. Some prefer the thicker 394 mil product while others go for 4 mm (approx 157 mil). I would think the thicker product would be hard to install behind door panels but okay for the back wall and floor. Am I correct - use 4 mm on doors under the door panel itself and thicker for back wall and floor?

 

As I recall, the doors were a little difficult, but I still put the thicker "mat" along with the thinner butyl liner.. They were cut and applied in smaller pieces.
For my process (through out the interior) I first applied the thermo-acoustic butyl liner then used a high quality adhesive spray to adhere the mat on top of the butyl liner.This included the roof, floors. and back wall.

Your approach will be fine and be a huge improvement for sound, thermal and riding enjoyment.

 

I guess I need to read the specs for some of these recommended products as it sounds like the thinner products may be that 'butyl liner' you reference and the thicker product might be a sound deadening foam which explains the thickness. I've always understood that products like the butyl liner change to resonant frequency of a panel to stop it from transmitting sound from an external source such as road noise. Foam products are often used to dampening reflected sound like one might have with music inside a closed space.