Long Travel BS Thread

This. I want to cover up my rack now that I have the steering slide rack

 

Question: how to cover up your rack.

Answer: with a shirt of course.

 

Here we go again lol.

 

It is a BS thread, after all.

 

My 3 link does not have the coil overs coming through the bed. The CO towers were built to exactly match the shape of the short bed wheel well and the bed cage bolts through the bed to the towers at two points ( 4 bolts each ) on each side.

edit - of course this means you bump at the frame and with a 12” CO it cycles 20” bumped and strapped.

 

That's a lot of travel. I neeeeeeed

 

Here’s what ended up being my best solution for my tundra rack. This boot, hose clamped onto the rack, loosely zip tied onto the tie rod, and soak the inside of the boot with fluid film to act as a lubricant and a rust preventative. The lube was the key to get the bolts to not get caught on the ribs of the boot. I didn’t try a normal tundra boot with the lube which might also work.

$20 FLEXX BOOT FB4000 Universal Replacement Rack & Pinion Steering Boot

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2M76MO

If I misunderstood your question and you have a JD slide rack, there is no boot solution.

 

Oh nice work. That’s pretty cool. I could probably get away with the bed cage (probably have to modify it a bit) and some holes in the bed.

Mine is currently SUA and I was hoping to be able to reuse the bed cage and maybe initially the bypasses.

 

You guys running links and bypasses, what are you running, 2.5/2.5? 2.5/3.0? Front and rear the same?

 

3.0’s would be better - usually what you can afford - a full blow mid sized prerunner can run 4.5’s with enough horsepower

 

Typically you'll see one size bigger in rear compared to the front on an IFS or similar setups. That is unless you want to shove a 3.0 bypass up front then that's cool too. Depends on the build though. You talking your average prerunner or fully caged, LS, etc?

 

Basically trying to decide for my truck which is fully caged, LS, etc.

I was thinking between 2.5/3.0 or 3.0/3.5 which is probably overkill, but my truck will be heavy. Probably close to 7k

 

You could probably get away with a 2.5 co’s unless you plan on moving down south and running long desert trails. Even 1450’s run 3.0 CO’s with tons of travel and power - 2.5’s should be plenty.

 

Yeah I'm thinking 2.5/3.0 will work great for how I'll be mostly using the truck

 

I did 3.0/3.5

 

2.5" C/Os and at least a 3.0" bypass. Would be better if you fit a 3.5" bypass in the rear. Your terrain doesn't allow for a lot of high speed terrain but 7k is heavy, I'm assuming that's a high estimate?

You'll also want to take into consideration what spring rates you'll want to run. You may have some rate limitations for a 2.5" C/O (3.0 ID Spring) that a 3.0" C/O (3.75 ID Spring) would solve.

 

Presumably you could fit larger diameter springs around a smaller shock if you have the space between the bypass and the coilover, yes? Or really the coilover and anything it might get friendly with. On trailing arms I assume that's easier to fit.

 

https://www.polyperformance.com/agm-coilover-slider-assembly-for-2-5-w-3-75-id-lower-spring-adapter

 

Yes, this is one way around spring limitations. You only run a 3.75" lower spring with this configuration. You also have to configure the lower end of the shock to work as well. Eyelets & spring retainers are typically different for a 3.75" ID setup.

 

Cool, I'm certainly no expert. But just another option if there are spring related issues. Good to know!