LS Swapped ❤️ L33 ❤️ Tremec TKX ❤️ TrueTrac ❤️ in a Reg cab 5 lug

Ok, question for 4x4 owners.
How with the motor mounts **** came up with and a Holley 302-1 oil pan do you guys (this includes gals) think… Here’s a link to the oil pans from Holley’s website. I know these may not be from the best angle but again do you guys Think the motor mounts with the Holley oil pan will clear the 4x4 from drivetrain components? I would really like some opinions, Please!!

https://www.holley.com/products/engine/oil_pans/engine_swap_oil_pans/parts/302-1

Pre production motor mounts and per the manufacturer he going to price them at $130 for the pair. Now know they will NOT be powder coated and PLEASE Don’t Hold Me To The Price! I’m just the owner and not the two people who were working on these. This has held up my build by quite some time because I asked **** if he could help develop mounts for others in the future who may want to LS Swap a 2nd or 3rd generation Taco.

 

Oh, Just an FYI we are keeping & using the stock drive shaft‼️ Yes you read that correctly!! The Tacoma uses the same U-joints as the Silverado and **** is just going to have the stock drive line shortened 2.5 to 3 inches.

Edit
The drive line was shortened 2” and new U-joints installed.

 

Only way to know for sure is to try it. Im ditching my Wieand front sump, and going with a sikky front sump. Im pulling my motor back out and resealing it.

 

Beautiful.

 

Thank You! Much appreciated…

 

You're welcome. Keep the video summaries coming. Great way to get caught up! Cheers.

 

So those motor mounts are bolting onto the stock & unaltered frame horns? Are those the same on 5 lug and 6 lug trucks?

 

Looks like it. Super cool development, wish I went that route. Only concern is strength. Need to gusset those babies up.

 

I guess that remains to be seen. Custom engine placement has a lot of benefits. Probably still need to weld for the transmission mount anyway. By the looks of it, this will only work for 2WD as well unless you have a custom oil pan made maybe.

 

Yeah the front diff is massively in the way. Have to go front sump, and even then some material either needs to be removed from it, or you need to move the engine about an inch forward and an inch higher than it really should be. But it is what it is. Doesn’t really matter.

 

Gentlemen, there is adjustment built into the mount/s. Now I admit there’s not a lot but still. **** has my engine setting in the middle of the adjustment range. The production mounts will have the lower mount cut to fit the factory frame horns / engine mounts.
Sorry I don’t have a 4x4 as I’ve owned a few in the past but couldn’t really use them as it would take me many hours just to clean the undercarriage plus two of them were taken without paying me for them. But I still had the keys and title. PD said they were probably either in pieces or S. of the Boarder. Bastards would wait until I had ring & piñons, tires & wheels, exhaust systems, stereo & alarm systems, yada, yada, yada… My insurance company hated me…

 

So I take it yall found someone to produce the motor mounts?

 

Yes Sir **** did. A company in Michigan I believe. I understand they make a line of mounts.

Still looking for someone to build an exhaust system!

 

Don’t mod the radiator, you wanna be able to drop in a widely available replacement in a pinch. Like being 1000 miles south of the border.

 

I would NEVER EVER take this truck across the border. I haven’t been south of the border since my late teens! After a Federale took my younger brothers Suzuki 250 R quad from him because he was riding it with a burned out tail light. He told my brother because his tail light was out so he confiscating it until he paid a $250 fine. My brother went to get it back and the authorities said they didn’t have it…

And if the radiator goes out you pay to have it towed to where it’s safe…

But thanks for your concern…

 

I’m sorry but did I say something wrong?

Ok, back to the build. I gave **** an idea on mounting the temporary shift lever and knob. Later on when I get the truck back I’m going to modify the stock shift lever so the boot will cover the lever and I can use the stock knob.


Ok, where the shifter ended up was completely wrong. So this was one of the first things I fixed when I got home. Now the shift knob is in the same position as the stock knob was in. Plus with the stock lever the shift knob doesn’t vibrate your hand to sleep! And apparently the stock shift lever is stainless steel. The gentleman who welded the OEM lever could only run about a half inch of weld then stopped to dip the lever in a bucket of water to make sure the rubber would not melt! Oh I had to buy a new rubber boot because **** cut up the metal ring that seals the outside from the inside of the cab. Boy this little thing made a big difference in noise and smell into the cab of the truck.

 

Working on the engine bay trying to fit everything! I paid more for the radiator fan shroud than I paid for the new OE fit / drop in Mishimoto radiator. **** wanted the parts black so more money to the powder coater. **** found the only deal on this entire project, he found a plastic radiator over flow tank for $7. He just had to drill some holes and bolt it in place. Oh, had to purchase another water pump because the pulley on the Gates LS7 Corvette water pump with the outlet farther to the passenger / right (not photographed). Then I had to purchase another Gates water pump because the first one had a silver pulley!
Hey it’s only my money…

 

Sub’d

 

Oh, I’ve had two contacts from Facebook asking to purchase motor mounts. I gave them the number for the company METALTEKMFG.com (make sure you have it correct because I found out their are many Metaltec companies. You can call Jamie @ (616) 485-3733 and the link below.

https://metaltek-manufacturing.myshopify.com/