Never go 10,000 miles on Oil change! It will start burning oil!

Fixed it.

 

...except these engines are designed and built for mass production, tolerances are tight, material specs are precise and they are actually tested, drained, flushed and refilled before installation.
And, they build 25K of them a month. That's one a minute for a sixteen hour shift in a 30 day month. Let that sink in. One engine a minute. Just think of how in the hell you get something as simple as spark plugs to the proper place at the proper time. In my feeble brain I imagine there is this huge bin of spark plugs and the bin holds a thousand plugs. On one side of the bin there is a guy unloading a spark plug truck and on the other side there is a guy taking out six plugs every minute and putting it on a conveyor belt! Mind boggling.
And, these engines last for a long time. The last engine I re-built (396 a long time ago) lasted a few thousand miles.

 

Engines whether mass production, or built in an automotive machine shop adhere to the same specs. depending on the type engine, and need to follow similar break in procedures if achieving optimum performance. Only thing thats changed is the machining process today that gives us more precise/tighter tolerances, than many years ago.
When mentioning a 396, a local auto machine shop rebuilt one for a buddies 1966 stock survivor 396 chevelle years ago thats still running awesome today. It's a car he often drives every summer weekend. Imo, that engine runs better than the one gm originally put in it.

 

It's plausible deniability, or soviet central committee thinking... Maybe even a little "trophies for everyone" syndrome.

If I have meetings, and everyone agrees to do a certain thing a certain way, or take a certain path, they can't get rid of us if we're all wrong. So let us all agree to do this thing to ensure continuity. If things go wrong, I can blame someone else for their direction.

Shame on those who practice self-thought and learn by trying, failing, and trying again...

 

Hanging my head in shame.

 

"You're not from around here".

 

Agree…sort of. The post from Red Line wasn’t about Tacomas and I didn’t mean to imply it was about Tacomas.

 

Both manufacturing and metallurgy have significantly advanced since those "old school" engines. Tolerances ARE tighter but more than that most the machined components have a greatly improved surface finish and the metals themselves are stronger and more resistant to wear.

Old school V8's with as little as 100,000 miles would end up with egg shaped cylinders simply due to gravity pulling the piston down on one side and you could go to any parts store and buy a ridge reamer to take the lip off the top of the cylinder bore because the rings had worn the cylinder so much you couldn't get the piston out without machining it off, that is not something builders face to anywhere NEAR the same level today. Hell, "stock car" racing had to change because racers could no longer get chevy 305s because the overbore needed to clean the cylinder up exceeded the racing bodies rules for modifications. I was there when there were hundres of 305s in the junk yard but you couldn't use one because the cylinders were too worn out, and this wasn't 200,000 mile cars, not even close (MN salt took most of those cars off the road WELL before that). And that was WITH 3,000 mile oil changes.

"Breaking In" an engine is just getting the rough surfaces smoothed by rubbing the relatively rough surfaces together. Better metals and better beginning surface finishes significantly reduce that, and that is before you consider surface coatings such as Nikasil.

 

Quilty also.

 

Nikasil cylinders are whole other animal. They require a special type honing process after being bored to size, then use iron/plasma coated rings. If rebuilding an engine with nikasil cylinders, you re-ring the cylinders by only deglazing them at most...no honing.

 

Kinda off topic, but I have always prefilled my spin on oil filters. But with this canister type oil filter it looks like it would be either difficult or messy to try. Been thinking about how to do it next oil change. Since the housing does install vertically maybe filling it part way then screw it on. Anybody try prefilling the oil canister housing prior to installation ?

 

No. There's no need to do that, other than making it unnecessarily difficult for yourself.

 

Not important

 

I change every 7500, I saw some stuff saying you could go 10k but that seemed crazy to me, good to know its not the best idea.

 

It's an "individual responsibility" that cannot be enforced.

No matter how the delivery, Americans do not accept to be told what to do.

Gather your own data and follow through on your own due diligence and carry on.

And another thing...don't broadcast your enthusiasm on any forum.

 

There are Zero issues going 10k with whatever brand of oil

 

I do like Larry

It's true 10k zero issues

 

On my last oil change I decided to try to prefill the oil filter canister like I do my other ride that has a spin on filter. It actually wasn’t difficult at all. It may not be necessary but I wanted to see if it was a pain to do. May not do it again but it was not messy or difficult. And the oil filter canister doesn’t hold that much oil anyway. As far as the ongoing debate on when to change the oil. Hell, it’s your ride, do what you want. But I do think Toyota filters are good filters and a good bargain, they are less than $6 and a Wix is $17. Toyota oil is actually Mobil 1 and it is cheaper than Mobil 1 at the parts store.

 

I do mine at 10k and I have 40k on it now . I will find out and let you know how it turns out I do about 25k a year so it won't be long!!!!!