Firearm BS thread

Use the graph and/or pivot table feature to display that data in pretty ways.

 

I guess I'm old school but I have a notebook

 

Oohhh, the pívot table does look good, I’ll have to play around with it, I don’t know how to do that type of stuff (I’ll learn), but I get emails every workday with graphs and pivot tables in it, they seem very useful.

If I was just keeping the data for myself the chronograph app would be fine, but for sharing the data for people who want to see a direct comparison for different barrel lengths it would be nice to have it all in a single file.

 

Just posted some 308 and 30-06 ammo for sale.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...rm-related-stuff.670728/page-76#post-29121527

 

Comparing barrel length velocity? I thought we were talking reloading data. Never met anyone who used a spreadsheets for that. It's pretty simple to approximate velocity change per inch of barrel without a chrono.

 

+/-25-50 fps per 2" is usually pretty close. Again you can always cheat that with a hotter load

 

How do you tell the difference in a factory fore end for a Mossberg 500, 12ga vs 20ga? Length, width, etc.?

 

Damn!!

https://www.windhamweaponry.com/

 

Crap

 

im sure someone will scoop up their equipment at auction. PSA probably

 

long way to ship from New England to Sakerlina though. Maybe Colt?

 

My 4 year old Granddaughter donated some stickers for one of my gun safe’s today

 

I suspect with the economy tightening up and materials getting more expensive, labor getting more expensive and people guarding their cash a little more, you are going to see more than just Windham drop off the face of the earth. When the dust settles from our countries current financial situation, we will likely lose several AR manufacturers, especially ones that were producing in the range above $1200 or 1500 rifles.

I'm not knocking expensive AR's. I know why they cost as much as they do. My first was a cheap one and I still have it today. I have learned that you can get into an AR for $350 (a while back) and what that gets you. The tolerances and milling quality where surfaces mate are not always as true as they could be - still within "mil-spec" but inconsistent. It takes some hand milling on precision jigs and shimming to bring many of the sub $1000 guns up closer to (not fully to) $1500 gun accuracy.

I think in the current economic situation, people are going to be happy to get a $600 or $800 AR and hope they got lucky and that theirs is a sub MOA gun. If not and it's 2 or even a 4 MOA gun, they'll be happy with it and work to slowly upgrade it over time or trade up later. Or do like I did and source your parts all separately and do a little assembly work.

Remember - the crappiest, most discount, bargain barrel AR built today far supersedes the AR's we sent into Vietnam in 1966 up through about the first Gulf War in 1990. CNC Machining, metallurgy, coatings and plating has come a long way in the last 35 years. You can get great AR's for cheap and amazing AR's for Beacoup Bucks these days.

More than anything I'm sad for the employees. They did nothing wrong here. But I'd expect this to be a continuing trend.

 

Has anyone ever filed/reshaped the slot on the slide where the slide catch fits to lock the slide back. That area on my slide has worn down and about 80% of the time on the last round the slide won't lock back. Or if i manually lock it back, if I shake the gun hard enough the slide when unlock and move forward.

Slide lock is installed correctly, it's a g19 and i've move the slide to other frames and it does the same thing but the other slides will lock back fine on the troublesomes' frame so I know it's a slide issue.

I've read where you can file it flat again and it should work like normal again.

 

opportunity to upgrade

 

It's already an upgraded slide I've had for years. Rmr cut, etc....

 

if it's worn out still opp to upgrade or try something new, that maybe won't wear out as quickly. i had a g17 that i shot every week for a couple of years, put thousands of rounds through it and didn't have any wear issues on the slide

 

If I can't fix it by filing then replacing it is my only solution anyways.

 

so guess you have nothing to lose trying

 

Carefully compare the bad slide to a known good one. Assuming the differences are obvious, give it a try. Realize, though, that you could ruin the slide. (Which, at this point, probably isn't a big deal, since it doesn't work right anyway.)

Whatever you do - file, peen, etc. - go slow, test often.