Toyota TRD OEM lift kit

Truck looks great! Mind a few questions?

What "stage/option" did you set yours to in that photo (and how much weight do you typically carry atm)? Have you had any need to extend your brake lines (or other tweaks to get the Icons to work)? Edit to add: Oh, and were you able to use the extended u bolts from the TRD lift kit or did you need the icon ones?

Icons price is a lot easier to swallow than some Deaver expeditions (granted they have even higher payload options).

 

I’m sitting on Stage 1 as the Icon springs come from Icon. My Softtopper weighs nothing and I’ve got about 50 pounds of gear in a bin in the bed. I’ve got Metal Tech rock sliders but that weight is evenly distributed from what I can tell. I’ll probably convert to a Leer or ARE topper down the road and I’ll modify my Icon RXTs as needed. No new brake lines needed as it sits now. I didn’t buy the TRD lift u-bolts and went straight to the Icon U-bolts. They are longer than needed on stage 1 but most likely necessary as you move to stage 2 on the rear Icon leaf springs. I beat the 1-2” lift topic to death since I’m still under factory warranty and settled on the TRD lift for simple warranty issues. I did the install and I’ll cross that bridge later if I need to but at least it’s mostly Toyota parts installed for now.

 

@rumbum thanks for the insight.

I pulled the trigger on some Icon RXT springs (they appear to be at roughly 25% off on Amazon, sold by Icon, right now at $254 per vs their website price of $334).

Been trying to find some proper specs for the TRD lift U-bolts to see if they would suffice. One random ebay source said the TRDs are 7" while the Icon RXT U-bolts are 8" according to Icon's website (I'll measure the TRD U-bolts when I get them off and report back with exact numbers). I did stick my head under the truck briefly and noticed a good 3/4" to 1" of threads still sticking out, so maybe if people were sticking to option 1 or 2 they could get away with not using the Icon U-bolts.

Parts will be coming in next week, but my "shop" is a gravel driveway, so hopefully good weather and enough time will converge on me.

 

I think the OEM u-bolts on my truck would have barely worked. But I went with the Icon bolts I bought with the springs. 8" I believe. But the 7" TRD ones will probably be fine.

 

I ordered some Icon U-bolts as back up just in case (free returns if I don't need them = no brainer), especially because I believe I'll be in option 3 territory soon (if I'm not already...).

 

My OEM lift (+Headstrong 3LAAL) has fully settled and I'm really loving it with my 285 Maxxis Razr ATs. It got me up Hermit Pass last weekend to 13,000ft no problem! Loving how it handles on and off-road.

 

Well I'm back to follow up after installing the ICON RTX leaf packs in conjunction with my previously installed TRD lift kit. I can now confirm that the factory TRD lift kit U-bolts work perfectly. I did forget to actually measure them while they were off, but there is about 1" (or more) of thread left after everything was torqued down, so the ICON bolts will be going back.

Ride is great so far, no drive line vibrations (though I've not had it above 70mph yet). Loaded it down with a bunch of camping gear, full tank of gas, tools, 14 gallons of water, etc. and it is still standing tall. Can now start looking at rotopax for gas, maybe a steel bumper with swing out etc. Tons of room to "grow."

 

Need pics or never happened

 

I'll snag some this weekend. Gonna try to hit some trails to shake things out.

 

Hi All,
Regarding the OEM TRD lift:
-The back is lifted via blocks, how’s the front lifted?
The kit doesn’t include new front springs.
-I’m also wondering if the front lift-height is adjustable.
I’d prefer a ~1-1.5 front lift.

Anyone know or know where I can find those details?

 

It's been stated in this thread before, but it is a long and hard to search one sometimes...

The new front shocks provide the lift. They are basically Bilstein 5100s (rebranded and possibly "tuned" by Toyota/TRD... though no one seems to know for sure). You have 3 height choices via snap ring placement and they are roughly 1" - 1.5" and 2".

 

Talkoma, THANKS a million.
Would you also happen to know what’s involved in changing the snap ring position?
I’ve never done that but I do my own preventative maintenance.
If the shock needs to be removed to change ring positions, that would be a problem.

 

You'd have to disassemble the shock, adjust the position and reassemble.

 

Yeah, pretty sure the shock has to be off the vehicle to change its position. Coil / lower spring perch needs to be out of the way to get at the snap ring and I'm not sure how you'd do that without removing the whole assembly. The snap ring is easy to move with a pair of pliers once you have access. Best to decide before installing based on what others have done. Lots of photos in this thread, usually with people reporting what height they chose.

 

Lorescar & Talkoma, thanks for the follow up.
Much appreciated.

 

You have to remove the tension from the spring in order to raise the seat up to move the snap ring position. This may be able to be done without removing the shock. I'm curious to know this myself. I installed my 5100's but have not changed the setting since installed.

 

I don’t have a spring compressor and am not going down that road. I’ll need to ask an installer to change it before installation.

 

You don't need a spring compressor. You can use the weight of the vehicle to decompress and recompress the springs. I have a spring compressor kit and have used it many times over the years but when I installed 5100's on my '23 TRD OR, I did the install using the weight of the vehicle and it felt like cheating.

 

I think this video shows how to do it without a spring compressor. (It's what I have bookmarked in case I decided to do this in future.)

edit: Here's another.

 

Thanks for the tip and links, that’s very helpful. Maybe I will go down that road.