Long Travel BS Thread

It might be a bit high, but it's not a normal "prerunner" type build. Trying to make a truck that can crawl some of the harder trails locally here, then go down to the desert and hit whoops, then still camp out of for a couple weeks at a time, so it's still gunna have a fridge, water, camping gear, and a rtt or something to sleep in. It will also have a winch in the front.

So with all that and the 32g fuel cell and tube work, I'm guessing it will be at least 6500

I guess I could do a 2.5/3.0 in front and 3.0/3.5 in the rear, as that's where most of the weight will be.

 

working well for you?

 

Thank you!

 

Not true, the big springs go right on with the adapter rings, I run the 3.75 springs all the way around with 2.5 shocks.

The leverage ratio of the trailing arms will decide what size shocks to run. If the shock mounts are just behind center the 2.5/3.5 is the minimum. If the shocks are further back the 2.5/3.0 works great and will have the same damping capabilities as a 2.5/3.5+

 

2.5 coil over with 3.75 springs and standard rod end/spring plate

 

They look good in the box

 

I'm not going to disagree with this. There's a lot of missing info in the original question. The leverage ratio changes everything on the topic but he also mention a truck that's going to weigh 7k lbs. Either way you agree that a 3.0" bypass would be the minimum recommended size, correct?

 

Insert *this is fine* meme here

 

Some day. Any updates?

 

In the first post you quoted, Harry literally says “adapter rings” lol

 

This is my trailing arm design I've been working on. Shocks are pretty far back towards the axle cuz I'm trying to keep the wheelbase shorter without putting the shocks in the cab while the cab is moved back 2.5"

 

Yup, he sure did. That was a long way around to come to the same result.

 

Decided to take the 6.2 I built for the taco and put it in my Silverado
Sold my 5.3 now trying to decide between
LS454, LT1 built similar to the last one but bigger bore, Or
Buy the L8T block
Bore it out to 7.0L and try to be a real hood rat.
Don’t want to make any comments on the lack of fab work since he stays pretty busy with other jobs that are better pay so no blame there.

still trying to get the DD links sold and eventually I’ll have some Deaver HD leafs to sell whenever it stops sitting on them

I’ve got blitz links for the truck now that are 55’s so I’ll have some shocks in the cab but theoretically a better ride and performance
40’s seems to be the tire of choice so it’s been sitting on some used projects while it sits under a tarp

I’ve been pricing out a 3.0/3.0 front shock package but haven’t pulled the trigger
And I am heavily debating selling off my 50Gal fuel cell and and just letting him do a rear mount tank instead of a trunk like I’ve been wanting.

still undecided on a transmission since I really want drivability if/when I go on hwy

I haven’t seen the truck in a few years so I’m assuming from the rat turds I saw last time all my wiring is gone so I am mentally budgeting for a full wire job

I guess I’ll know more about where I stand on the build list when the Nissan gets finished and that spot opens up

so
I’m hoping/ planning
1000hp (ish)
40’s
3.0 3.0 F
3.0 3.5 R
Sometime before 2030

 

Why are you doing your own? How much different would these be? RuffStuff URC Trailing Arms, Pair (ruffstuffspecialties.com)

 

Because it's a good project to practice cad and I have a plasma table, plus I can make them the exact length and motion ratio I want, just for the price of steel. Plus it's just cool to do it all myself. I'll be designing and building a J-arm front setup next.

 

only issue with 3.75 springs will be fitting them with your uca unless your pushed waaayyy out or lean the shocks in past the frame rail’s. My 2.5x10 coil overs are mounted just outside the frame rail and had to cut back into my Mitch made uca mounts just to clear the spring.

 

But I’ve got 2.5 co and 3.0 bypasses in front and same out back. I’m only running 16’s on both out back cause that’s what was available used when I wanted to get my links in. Will eventually redo the bypasses in probably a 3.5 18 so I can get full travel. Will have to cut the upper bypass mount off and rework for the new shocks but not too much work. But will give me an extra 3” of droop.

 

You could be right
But it looks like it has room to go up a size

 

Holy shit, is this a full-size?