ARB Rated Recovery Point

Late to the party but I wanted to ask if the hole you have to drill out on your trucks square…. My hole is more square than circular and wanted to make sure I’m not trippin

 

U need to enlarge it with step bit

 

What is the 1 thicker washer used for? It doesn’t say in the instructions anywhere

 

There’s two spacers if that’s what you mean. One for the stock bumper and one for an arb bumper
Edit: Nevermind I see what you’re saying… The odd man out in this pic. I don’t recall exactly but it all made sense when I pieced it together before installing and went wherever it was supposed to go about a month ago. I’ll see if I can dig up the instructions

Edit 2: The parts list has 6 flat washers and a single M12 washer. Step 9 reads “For the bolt without a factory weld nut, utilize the M12 flat washer and M12 hex nut.”

 

So it goes on the part that “closes that opening” that is secured by a bolt …: if that makes sense? If you have pics that would be awesome …. I just want to be sure I get this thing on right

 

I’m not positive what you mean. In the pic there’s three holes. The two on the right match up with the factory tow hook weld nuts. The one on the left lines up with a hole but you use the M12 washer and nut to secure the bolt since there’s no weld nut there

 

So this one uses the thicker washer? Refer to my circles

 

Yes, but it goes inside the square tube (don’t know what this piece is called) subframe, under the nut holding that bolt in place. The one in your picture is one of the 6 flat washers.
It’s shown in the picture below step 16. I’d post a pic for you but it would be that exact picture basically lol I already had one. You can see the M12 washer and nut in the subframe.

You got this! The hardest part is drilling the square hole wider. I was expecting the “nut on a stick” to be a hassle after I read a bunch of people complaining about it, but that was a cake walk imo

 

I get it now …. Because the recovery point won’t allow the metal subframe cap to go back in , but that cap had the weld nut in it, so you will now use the bolt , M12x4mm washer and nut in place of that metal “cap” …. God these instructions suck

 

I like this recovery point because of the weight savings versus a full bumper (even the aluminum). I am not a hardcore wheeler, but I like to have a solid recover point in the front in case I get myself into a pickle. But I am hesitant because it only provides a one-sided recovery point.

What would be the reason ARB wouldn't make a Left recovery point (driver's side)? It seems having both a Lt. and Rt. recovery would be better to distribute the load and would put less stress on one side of the frame member only. But maybe I am missing something, I dunno. Has anyone used this in recovery situations without issues? Any disadvantages to it? Please chip in your experiences with it.

 

you will loose slight approach angle

 

If you still have the OEM front skid with the two support braces tying the front crossmember to the steering rack crossmember, you can use the hoop on the left side. The hoop is thoroughly welded to the crossmember.

 

Bought this thing 3 months ago. Looking for the motivation to install it. Been wondering about this last step myself. It is the 5th out of 5 bolts. For sure it adds to the weight rating, but I wonder by how much. Don;t get me wrong I will give it a go but depending on the frustration factor, I may give up and try that last bolt another day.

Damn good product, just seems the install is insanely frustrating.

 

Installed today. Not too bad to install really. The nut on the stick worked OK for me and didn't take too long. I trimmed the fender liner a little with a box cutter and that worked well. I did paint the spacer as well while I painted the frame after making the hole larger.

 

Were you able to insert the crush washer for the nut on the stick?

 

Yes, that part was pretty straight forward. After trimming the fender liner I was able to push it out of the way enough to make access to that side. I wasn’t able to get my torque wrench in there but tightened as tight as I could with my 1/2” drive ratchet. I was able to torque everything else to specification.

 

Why do the installation instructions show a round hole that needs to be enlarged to 18mm while people here are saying it is actually square? I am going to tackle this tomorrow.

 

The photos are from a truck that already has an ARB bumper which I think enlarges the hole to the same diameter for that bumper. It’s a square hole from the factory. Super easy to enlarge with a step drill bit. Frame is pretty thin metal.

 

Thanks. Should I have any worry that the step drill bit will enlarge it but because the opening is square, it will get enlarged to 18mm but be off-center (then other holes won't line up right)?