1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

@Speedytech7 Forgot I covered up the shocks with rubber to protect the shafts from rocks so the pics are kinda bad. You can at least see mounting angles. Didn’t want to crawl around and get dirty so there are some old ones in here too. Also put on some soft shaft bumps from shockseals.com and I really like them.




Flexed out yesterday. Shows it cleaner and the shaft bumper

Old pics you can kinda see angles on suspension travel.

 

You replace the upper link mount locations?

They're literally vertical if you're flexing even shy of that as they're short AF.

 

It's leaves in the rear, but they're Chevy 63s, long and flexy and it is only a 3 leaf pack since they're much thicker and slightly wider than stock. I carry a lot of weight, and it just seems like the truck is soft and almost a bit harsh because of the softness. Ben from Filthy Motorsports suggested a F10/12 valving and said if I go hard he'd remove the flutter. But we didn't know what was in these shocks until now either. Not sure he'd make the same recommendation. I've noticed I can get into my bumps pretty easy on medium rocky terrain and even on rough roads I can blow through my travel on a good pothole. I'm either undersprung or valved too soft... What makes me think I was just valved too soft is the truck handles the weight just fine and sits with a decent rake as I like it even when loaded for a trip and I could stave off some of the symptoms by cranking my compression adjusters to full hard compression. It can still bottom out like that but much less so. I figured I'd bring the compression up a good bit and then maybe have to use the adjusters less, but still have the option if needed. I was just going to up the rebound because that's what Ben recommended. These King 2.0 pistons have three bleed holes that aren't blockable, the only option is open. They appear to be .056" holes



That's fully loaded for a week long trip, can see what I mean about those leaves.

 

All stock mounting locations. They get steep but it hasn't caused issues for me in a year and @theesotericone had it for a long time before that without issues I would relate to the upper length.

I do wonder how much the sort upper and lower rear arms contribute to it being hard to control at higher speeds off-road from bump steer but maybe I just need tacoma for fast stuff. This is a crawler anyways I just like going fast too.

 

Oh, I didn't know you bought his old 4R

Yeah I watched his build thread for a long time, didn't know if he had ever changed up the upper link location as the uppers are super short but the lowers are plenty long enough to allow some good flex

 

If only @Abeyancer weren't so busy, he'd enjoy watching this

https://youtu.be/-MAoOgi2gDc?si=fabCmQataY_VE5-5

 

Yea those leafs are stiff. Put some on a buddy's Tacoma and he refused take the overload out so it was tall as hell.

I'm in the camp that believes that you want the lightest spring possible that is able to hold the weight. You cant tune out it being stiff in small bumps if the sprung is too stiff

I would try something like this if you have the right shims. Cracking point to open up valving on slow shaft speed should be a little harder to hit and it wont open up as much as it will hit a 1.45 shim instead of a 1.3. Then it will ramp up to be a good bit stiffer on faster shaft speed but it should be a gradual ramp up in stiffness.

.012 0.85
.012 1.00
.010 1.15
.010 1.30
.010 1.45
(same as what you have I think)
=====
.012 1.45
.008 .085? flutter
.010 1.45
.012 1.30
.015 1.15
.015 1.00
.015 0.85

 

Hmm, so I think I can do that with what I have but I'd still have to have the doubled up .850 shims (a .012 with a .008 on top) on the comp side because the thickest I have in that dia is .012

 

Yea I'm kind of going back and forth now on if you include that .010 on comp or no. It will be a pretty decent jump in stiffness if you do but my thought is it might be close to what you need with the adjusters full open, then when you really push it you can start to close them. If you are already close I would leave it out but if it is a good bit soft throw it in. Here is the link I referenced earlier to calculate shim stiffness compared to each other.

All the other links I kept to reference on valving are here if you want to kill time and maybe find some good info.
https://www.shimrestackor.com/
https://restackor.com/sample-apps
https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/t...yno-data-which-shocks-should-you-buy.2130786/
https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/shock-valve-shims.1115042/
https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/the-spring-tech-thread.1074029/page-8
https://racetech.com/page/title/IP SK VALVING ADAPT

http://www.racingsuspensionproducts.com/shim/shim.html
https://slavensracing.com/shop/shock-valving-shims/
https://www.teknikmotorsport.com/16mm-id-suspension-shim-kit
https://www.suspensiondirect.com/shop/shim-parts

https://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid
I think King oil is Shell Tellus T22 - now Shell S2 VX 22. There are a lot better options.
Fox, bilstein, and shockseals.com oil is F&L Ultra Extreme.

 

I think I'm going to leave the slow speed damping as the .012 with a flutter since .010 was pretty good at slow speeds with the comp adjuster cranked fully. But I'll leave out the .010 above that. I bought the shockseals.com oil, pretty sure that's a 5wt. These had never been rebuilt before so it likely had that Tellus T22 in it. Shit stank bad, when I drained it. Thanks for the reading material, I'm gonna study up before I commit tomorrow and toss em together. Definitely let you know what I end up doing and how I like it. I wish I knew the relationship between shim stacks for 2.0 vs 2.5. I've been doing some simple averaging to compare the two since I have a couple trucks I know the rear valving of that are similar to my own in setup.

 

You little fucker



Going raw voltage next time around

 

It's a through hole component, bust out the old soldering iron you can replace that lickety split

 

Oh for sure, in fact I'd want holco resistors all throughout whatever circuit I'd be using

The raw side looks unscathed so I could still use the box, just going to have a new one sent out while I repair this one and keep as a backup

 

Just sucks I make a bottom die, not to mention I even cut myself out some more gooseneck dies, only to have this shit go down

 

I am so thankful that the sit I build today doesn't have that ancient bullshit on it.

You wanted a video of bigger planes..
https://youtu.be/HUJOTbfccSM?si=ODYTk00zHIqACVE9

Also i flew the back country Canadian Rockies, was pretty rad!

 

Dude

Few things, check list is on point and the music lol

Damn though I am surprised you don't have more peripherals! Just engaging those switches, magneto start, priming your pump, all that....I've added several of those and do the same on my throttle for the Cessna just cause it's fun

Other thing I was going to say is, during take off I noticed you were using your rudder quite a bit. Were you countering the forces of the engines? Seems like you were countering it by steering right.

 

I had to find that copyright free phonk. Usually have some youtube music playing though, hence the ad on approach LOL

A lot of aircraft dont need the extra stuff, my setup has few buttons to optimize for the wide variety of planes. I should do a cessna one fpr fun. Plane is super simple control wise.

As far as rudder, that tail dragger requires the least of them. I barely had to counter the engine torque. That plane, because its old also has shit brakes so you can see my struggle to stop the damn thing in the grass on landing.

 

@Wulf

I need a friend to play this with

 

too scary for me

 

I had one of the connectors on the inside of mine break, popped it open and its an easy fix.