Home Improvement Today?

The fixed side would have to come out with the entire window frame.

 

https://www.geocelusa.com/product/1500sl-premium-self-leveling-concrete-joint-crack-sealant/

This company makes great products

 

More than doubled the area of our deck.




Going to put a granite step at the bottom to raise it off the lawn and level it. Wish I did that first , but I think if I dig enough I will have plenty of room to wriggle it in.I will eventually keep adding steps down to the fire pit.
I kind of want the steps on the opposite side but the grade seemed a PITA for leveling

 

Ships ladder, fun. 300' rope railing, not fun. Gonna do something different on the front side.

 

How long a zip line? thats pretty awesome!

 

The fixed side is usually held in with double sided tape. You can remove it by cutting the tape from the inside and removing the decretive molding from the outside but that will still leave the interlocking T bar in the middle. You'll need to remove the whole window to get drywall through there.

 

About 106ft. They say you don't need a come along for a line that short. IDK what kind of hulking MFs they are, but there is absolutely NO way to get the requied tension without one. Luckily, Tacoma recovery gear to the rescue!

 

You don't need a comealong but you do need to set up a mechanical advantage using simple rigging. Like a 3:1 pulley.

 

My kitchen faucet has terrible water pressure even after removing the aerator. The coper lines under the sink have 1/4 turn pex valves. They are fully open.

I have another sink 12 feet away with great water pressure.

Any ideas?

 

how old is the faucet?

 

valve in the facet
could flow test the location, disconnect the facet and run a line from the valve to a bucket for a set amount of time

 

the shutoff valves under the sink could be full of mineral buildup, but...

this^

You could swap in new cartridges for around $10 a piece, but I'd just replace the whole faucet.

 

Worked like a champ. Also recommended by 2 people at a couple trusted HW stores. Not perfect (I do better with wood), but substantially better than what was there. The top corners of the opening around the flue were squared off. I just packed it in until it stopped. Probably 2" or so. The stuff is really thick and didn't sag/droop at all where I put it on thick. The old stuff was only in less than an inch. I ended up chipping all the old stuff off. I doubt if it'll ever get close to the 2000 degrees.

 

Also. With all the deck/porch work I've been doing, I picked up the Metabo HTP 8 1/2" Sliding Miter Saw a while back (non laser version). Threw on a nice Freud blade. It'll cross cut a 4x4 (part of my criteria). It was accurate right out of the box. ACME tools recently had some savings specials, so I ordered a stand last week. It arrived today.

 

Soooo, you wanna drive 9 hours South to do mine?

 

I use to use furnace cement on exhaust systems years ago. Saved a lot of money for people.

 

Good to see Metabo hasn't messed with Hitachi's design. I've got the same saw with about 18 years on it. Used mainly for paint grade MDF base and case but it's still accurate all these years later.

 

Stained the deck, this time around l would like to try to find some kind of weather sealer to put on top of it.

 

Realmilkpaint.com

Real Tung Oil

https://www.realmilkpaint.com/category/oils/

The best.

 

I'm slowly chipping away at the deck, I need more daylight after getting home from work!



When the Kitten comes to visit with the GF, he has been starting ti look for ways to jump off of the deck. Once I get stairs in place, I'm gonna need a kitty proof-ish gate.