1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

@treyus30

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CxSbw-nSRtI/

 

My favorite is when I let my foot stay at 30-50% throttle for just a tad longer to try and get a little extra learning for the next RPM level and the wastegate slams open and the truck acts like the engine just threw a rod

 

I don't think it crashed yet I thought it was flying on autopilot lol

they want to find it and... dispose of it before it lands unexpectedly

 

I don't think letting a military jet fly on autopilot after the pilot ejects would be very wise from a design standpoint lol

 

Tell that to the person that wrote the software

 

it wouldn't surprise me lol

 

reminds me of that guy on IG, Habitual line crosser's posts with the F35 and F22

 

You're doing that whole process on hard mode man, get a tuning partner, turn off all trimming and nail it by hand. Can tune your boost controller through all the ranges and steps in like 45mins that way on the hwy

 

That guy's funny as shit

 

Full throttle and coast down? Seriously, full throttle scares me

It's also a bit more convoluted since the transmission wants to kick between 3rd and 4th

 

Can anyone follow their power steering pump wire back a foot? Does this just plug on and sit on top of the intake? This is on a 2003 3rz

 

If you're not going full throttle at all then what you've done so far is entirely useless since it reflects nothing of what will happen when you finally demand more. Unless you're going to install a throttle stop that is, which would be weird. If you're not confident in the tune enough to go wide open you've already let the boost get too high

 

Mainly because the response has been somewhat unpredictable. I would prefer starting at low speed, high load so my RPMs don't soar so quickly, but you're right it's taking too long I just need to go do it

 

Lock yourself in third, just turn ECT and OD off both to engaged and do pulls in your 1:1 all day long. You turn your duty way down and just pull until it sits at a boost level (before it starts to creep) and record what that pressure and duty were, so on and so forth. You don't need to hold it there all day since and pull till it creeps to hell, you want to avoid that since the boost controller will avoid it itself when you have more data points.

 

Should I just start with a single number instead of an RPM range then?

To give you an idea, the red circled are nearly dialed in to 14-15PSI and that's where I'm most comfortable at.



I also have in the back of my head that I might need a throttle position axis, so it doesn't keep me from reaching full boost at lower throttles after this is all taken care of, even if that means it goes to 100%

 

I took RPM out of the equation, you can use it later to fine tune, but I bet you'll barely have to, in your case you might have to do some boost by gear maybe though.

I started with some arbitrary target boost numbers in the x-axis and then set a duty I guessed might be close, check and tweak until it is close then change the number in the x-axis to what it actually achieved and move to the next. Guess and check the next one, each time making sure all future cells are a little higher duty that the highest one you've actually defined so far. Remember it interpolates so you want the x-axis number to be actual achievement not necessarily what you asked it to produce, it can use that to achieve what you actually want later on now that you have the right duty cycle for that arbitrary achieved value..

Mine looked like this...


For every target boost you're setting you're defining your duty for you should change all your target values so it tries to go right for your next one you're figuring out rather than tricking you and staying at one you've already defined... like so...


As boost gets higher, maybe don't bring it in too hard too early, I don't let mine go hard down low, it just spins and it isn't great for stock rods to have that much low torque like these can make.

 

Got it, makes sense. And ya it's probably a good idea to let it chill a little down low like where it's been liking to ping. Then the relatively advanced timing at lower pressure may be able to make similar power in those regions anyway than moving it up in boost and over-retarding.

be sure to check out the edits to my prev comment too

 

I'm not sure how well the current numbers you have in that cell will translate now, guessing from the relatively high DC you're using a 3port setup too. I will suggest for now that if you're doing your tuning in a highway range that pulls from 3000ish to 4000ish that you should just knock out all the duty cycles before trying methods of forming a boost curve. Gotta get the DCs right before you go trimming and modifying reaction, it'll be easier if the computer can do it all itself rather than a whole bunch of stacked corrections to overcome various reaction and curve forming settings.

 

Ya, I see the wisdom in starting over. It'll probably yield some sort of average anyway then the ECU can adjust the rest. Just to bring the duties down I might go with a slightly heavier spring while I'm at it. Thx